mazdeuce wrote: Yeaaaaaa, we're going to need some sort of substantial update here. You can't just casually drop that sort of statement without some further info.
Give the man a break! He's movin' the truck! 
That being said, this thread is worthless without pictures!
Congrats on the new digs Tuna!
There's not much to say, really. Tunawife and I got a bit bored with having homeschool office paperwork in our bedroom, and dining room, and kitchen, and hall closet, and living room. We had a realtor come, and within two weeks of near-sleepless nights, we were on the market. Three days later, it was sold. We're closing April 28.
Hence lack of build updates.
I'll probably rent a trailer from the same place I rent a box truck from and move everything. The new garage is bigger, but it's nothing earth shattering. The worst thing is that the neighbors might be less amenable to putting up a temporary spray booth in the driveway.
I hope our house sells as quick as yours. It'll all be down to a Realtor worth their cut for staging and marketing. (so I'll probably contact you in a month or so for a reference.)
I figure painting a car once every five years you can get away with. More than that and you become a concern. Your problem is that you are going to be "The new guy" and want to paint two vehicles this year.
Any chance you can paint in the garage and blow the fumes out the back door? Certainly priming does not require a booth in the driveway.
Mad_Ratel wrote: I hope our house sells as quick as yours. It'll all be down to a Realtor worth their cut for staging and marketing. (so I'll probably contact you in a month or so for a reference.)
Yeah, you want to use these guys. I'll get you their info when you're ready.
BIG EDIT:
I mean something like this:
http://porsche944repaint.blogspot.com/2010/11/building-diy-spray-booth-in-garage.html
And I intend to use sucking fans, not blowing fans. A negative pressure booth is a lot less likely to contaminate the garage.
Actually, I did negative pressure. Won't do it again. Way too much over spray hangs out in the booth. The plastic walls really suck in, even with a 2x4 base and on the bottom. The booth in the link you provide is not too bad.
Next time I am going to blow air into the top of the booth from one end. On the opposite end of the booth I am going to have overlapping strips of plastic like they have in cold storage facilites. This allows a maximum of over-spray out, while preventing positive or negative pressure in the booth. Air in the one side will be filtered and dust will have no incentive to migrate upstream.
If the walls are bulging in or out, that means you do not have enough flow to move the over spray out.
That all said, dont overthink this. Even with a fog cover of over spray, my paint came out fine withing the limits of my spraying talent and experience. Had I taken the time to color sand the finished car, it would have been downright impressive. Base-clear is like that.
In reply to NOHOME:
Thanks for the advice.
I have worked before on ventilation systems for large industrial gas turbines. In those systems, there are two primary theories. The first is the units should always be negative pressure. This means that air is getting in from the seams, rather than potential natural gas getting out and causing an uncontrolled fire hazard, since the airflow beyond the enclosures is unknown.
The second is a positive pressure system, but this is only used in extremely adverse environments, like the desert, where you really don't want sand getting in.
In my case, I really really really don't want isocyanates in my kids bedrooms. Really. Really. Really. REALLY.
Hence my quest for negative pressure.
I suppose if I am super careful, and create a double layer bubble around the interior walls, than I minimize the risk. Perhaps a positive pressure boundary between the outer bubble and inner bubble, discouraging the paint from going beyond the... aww crud, that's too complicated to work in a garage.
OK, I see where you are coming from. Probably a door from the garage into the house also?
You just went to a rather large lot in the new place. Can you do this in the back 40 using a portable garage converted into a spray booth?
In reply to NOHOME:
Yes. And no.
That's the part of the home I don't like, there is an HOA, so a tent would be a bad call, at least right away until I figure out how much leeway I have.
tuna55 wrote: In reply to NOHOME: Yes. And no. That's the part of the home I don't like, there is an HOA, so a tent would be a bad call, at least right away until I figure out how much leeway I have.
HOA are evil and is always updating the bylaws every freaking year. I can't wait to sell my house to get out of the HOA from hell neighborhood. Anal retentive shiny happy people that hates cars. 
You can blame hoa's. Or you can blame guys like me that are the reason that they exist.
Stupid question : can they legally enforce the bylaws if they are broken? Or just ban you from the neighborhood pool?
tuna55 wrote: In reply to NOHOME: Yes. And no. That's the part of the home I don't like, there is an HOA, so a tent would be a bad call, at least right away until I figure out how much leeway I have.
Well there's your mistake. The only way to make it work for you is to become friends with the board and try to get on. Work it from the inside and make sure it doesn't go overboard, like some do.
Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote:tuna55 wrote: In reply to NOHOME: Yes. And no. That's the part of the home I don't like, there is an HOA, so a tent would be a bad call, at least right away until I figure out how much leeway I have.Well there's your mistake. The only way to make it work for you is to become friends with the board and try to get on. Work it from the inside and make sure it doesn't go overboard, like some do.
I already tried that one myself. No dice when it's composed of several people on the board (mine is mostly women).
In reply to Sine_Qua_Non:
Um, that's where you start working to get them replaced. You have to be in it for the long game to make it work.
Personally, I'm way to berkeleying lazy for that E36 M3, so I refuse to live anywhere that has an HOA. I've told the wife this and I ensure to tell any realtors we talk to as well.
HOA are greedy berkeleyers too. When I moved to my neighborhood in 2000, it was $225 a year in HOA fees. 16 years later, it is now $475. WTF?
HOAs were designed to keep people like me out of the hood. They work.
I've got some nosy neighbors but a tent for only a week would not upset them so long as they knew it would only be a week.
You just can not set it up and then take a few months to do it.
A colleague brought up a really good point. My fuel filler tube is attached to the tank via rubber and the neck via rubber. It's completely isolated electrically.
Do I need to ground it?
Is there any way to do it without welding on it? If not, that means pulling it back off and redoing the internal coating again.
As far as the paint booth, I am now thinking I build the booth, push it outside, and then push it back inside. It's outside for maybe a few hours max.
No ideas on grounding the fuel filler?
How about the quality of this weld job (not mine)?
And also, I started to do the valve seals. Either I bent it (doubt it) or I discovered two bent rocker studs. WOW. It's crusty in here.
I can't figure out what you are talking about with regard to the filler tube, or I'd comment.
What about screwing in a grounding strap, like what is used to ground the engine block to the frame? Screw one end into the frame/body of the truck and the other into the mounting flange of the filler tube. That might work. No welding required.
ShawneeCreek wrote: What about screwing in a grounding strap, like what is used to ground the engine block to the frame? Screw one end into the frame/body of the truck and the other into the mounting flange of the filler tube. That might work. No welding required.
That's a good idea for the mounting flange but the flange and the filler tube are separated by rubber.
Use a piece of braided ground strap held between rubber coupler and pipe to electrically connect the sections.
Now that I figured out that you are wanting to ground the filler to prevent static.
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