tuna55 wrote: No ideas on grounding the fuel filler? How about the quality of this weld job (not mine)?
And also, I started to do the valve seals. Either I bent it (doubt it) or I discovered two bent rocker studs. WOW. It's crusty in here.
Bent two studs and broke one!! Weird. Time for three new studs, I guess.
Dusterbd13 wrote: Use a piece of braided ground strap held between rubber coupler and pipe to electrically connect the sections. Now that I figured out that you are wanting to ground the filler to prevent static.
That's not a bad idea! I sort of want to cover it all with paint though, to make it more sanitary. I wonder if I can solder the wire to the filler and to the flange and connect to the frame.
I'm sure you can. Silver solder and a torch maybe?
Ugh rocker studs.
So in the name of "Just get the thing running again and don't spend any money!", I am trying to replace the two bent and one broken stud.
The vice-grip slide hammer deal was not cutting it.
I was able to pull one out by stacking 1/2" nuts over it and tightening the nut on it. Using that technique, I stripped the threads off of the other bent one. Welding a half inch nut on it allowed me to use my ghetto slide hammer to get it out.
The broken one is another story.
I tried the same weld-a-nut-on deal and the stud broke more when I tried to twist it, mostly because the slide hammer wasn't doing it.
I then welded a washer on the stud, and welded nuts to that, since I was down to about 1/8" of stud left. The slide hammer pulled the weld off of the stud that time. I'll try again tomorrow.
Rocker...stud? What's that?
It's a chevy thing. Just one more reason our mopars are more awesome.
Dusterbd13 wrote: It's a chevy thing. Just one more reason our mopars are more awesome.
And Volvos. 
So that was neat.
I welded a washer onto the stud (because the washer ID matched the stud OD) and then welded two 1/2" nuts to the washer so I could use my slide hammer.
The weld kept breaking on the stud. Or so I thought. After trying the third time, I ground the stud flat. When it broke loose, I noticed the stud was no longer flat. I was actually breaking the stud each time with the tensile impact of the slide hammer. It must have been super super hard.
So, out came the masonry bit to dent through that layer, then I drilled it out. It's laying in the valley, now, thinking about what it did.
I get to spend the $50 to put it back together on Saturday. New studs, valve seals, a rocker nut, and some other odds and ends. Then the goal is to put everything back in the truck for shipping to the new house.
I pulled all the studs out of the heads that are now in my '77 C10, and installed threaded studs. I initially stacked washers and used the nut to pull the stud out, against the washers. A couple of studs broke. I tried the slide-hammer like you did, but also didn't have a lot of luck. I think three of the studs had to be drilled out of the head.
On my heads the studs are open into the intake runners, but the heads were off at the time.
The bellhousing was "fixed" but the threaded hole wasn't really round so much when he was done. Also, welder-dude welded over the counterbore. Neighbor-Jim helped with his Bridgeport, and borrowed a big tap from work. Here is the end:
I tested it by smacking it with a hammer. Good enough? It's ugly, but it seels to be holding.
Yum. Weld porosity. Eh, should be fine.
volvoclearinghouse wrote: Yum. Weld porosity. Eh, should be fine.
I am of two minds here.
One: All it really does is hold the clutch fork pivot position. It's under basically only compressive stress, and not that much at that.
Two: If this thing breaks and shoves the fork into the clutch, it could lock up the driveshaft and cause many bad things.
Just for maximum explanation, I am waiting on cylinder head parts right now. Our credit card was hacked and we were all frozen up for a while.
The rockauto order should come soon, with studs, nuts, more seals, and I also bought a different spring compressor which won't side load the studs.
SkinnyG wrote: On my heads the studs are open into the intake runners, but the heads were off at the time.
So now, hive mind, where did the chips go when I drilled out the rocker stud?
I didn't think of it at the time, but do they go into the intake runner?
I'll have to check before I fire it up.
nothing to add except i spent the last few nights binge re-reading this thread. I'm up to page 75, and it's been freaking inspirational. Bravo, Tuna. Bravo.
Edit: caught up fully now
Rufledt wrote: nothing to add except i spent the last few nights binge re-reading this thread. I'm up to page 75, and it's been freaking inspirational. Bravo, Tuna. Bravo. Edit: caught up fully now
Thank you! I am sorry for the relatively slow progress lately.
No problem! 4 kids, work, homeschooling, AND moving? If anyone has an excuse, you do!
You find a trailer yet?
Mad_Ratel wrote: You find a trailer yet?
Budget rental
I just got the parts in yesterday. Today I spent some time retrieving a valve which fell into the cylinder, and putting the rocker studs in.
The first one bent, so I pulled it back out. Then I did a combo or heating the head with a propane torch, freezing the stud, and putting a bit of grease on the stud.
They all went in! Yay!
It took enough time that I went in after this.
Plus, I had to do slot car stuff! The kids all raced slot cars today, and we had a blast. Tonight I spent some time optimizing gear ratios and redoing motor mounts and such. My two eldest kids had really awesome lap times actually, too.
Tomorrow I'll do the valve seals again. I ended up wrecking them so I'll have to do it again. This time, with a valve spring compressor which doesn't use the stud as a fulcrum.
ahem... So, where are the slot car pictures? I believe I speak for everyone when I say we would totally love to see some slot car action 
Also it seems like the engine is getting closer to done every day! One thing I learned binge reading this while looking at the post dates is that incremental progress adds up to an awesome truck eventually.
Valve seals replaced on one bank.
I still want to drill and pin the new three studs, but my drill bits are apparently all dull.
I don't have a ton of slot car pics, but Tunawife does. She's putting something together and I'll share soon.
Slot car racing is great.
There is one good pic. They are even in order! Yes, Tunakid #4 was actually driving, and actually, all of them did really well. I mean, Tunakids #1 and #2 were way faster, but none of them did any serious damage to the cars, and they all loved it.
tuna55 wrote: Slot car racing is great.
You got that right! Wow that already looks epic, I was expecting a small 2 lane track in a living room!
There's a place like that in my town that just opened up, I'm happy to report they have tons of old AFX parts in the shelf so we can revive some of my dad's old cars. One of my favorite memories from childhood was racing slot cars with my dad. Well played, tuna.
Rufledt wrote:tuna55 wrote: Slot car racing is great.You got that right! Wow that already looks epic, I was expecting a small 2 lane track in a living room! There's a place like that in my town that just opened up, I'm happy to report they have tons of old AFX parts in the shelf so we can revive some of my dad's old cars. One of my favorite memories from childhood was racing slot cars with my dad. Well played, tuna.
Thanks! It goes back to my youth. I raced these three exact cars and motors back when I was a preteen. I was pretty good then.
This place has two 1/24th scale hillclimb tracks and a dragstrip. It's nice. They also don't charge per hour like they should, so for $10 I got two lanes for the afternoon. A fellow racer lent us a controller so we actually ended up using three as you see there.
Tunakid #2 has his own because he willingly gave us a bunch of cash to buy enough parts to get some running. Tunakid #1 has his own because of behavior rewards. They are both my old cars, of course, with new bodies.
Where is this place? My little ones would love to go.
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