Yikes, tough decision. I'd go neutral gray. White reflects too much light and might be annoying when driving. Black shows just how dirty it is and gets hot in the sun. No glare though. Gray becomes a middle ground? It also matches the rest of the car...
I have a plane builder friend who suggested Zinc Oxide primer - and I don't hate the idea. In fact a WWII fighter theme could be a lot of fun with the car.
I don't know about the fighter theme, but I do like the look of that zinc oxide! It's certainly something different. Go for it.
Zinc oxide primer will look great until it gets an even slightly oily hand print on it. I would cover the primer with clear flat vinyl anywhere you might touch it. Or clear gloss coat it, but that negates some of the anti-glare.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I have flat clear I can throw on
Going through boxes I found the old radiator, which made me laugh. Here's a comparison:
The former setup was in the nose of the car, while this new one is obviously in the side pod. My goal was to get more right side weight and since it will get less flow and hillclimbs make a lot of heat, I went bigger. If I experience over cooling I can hook up the Davies Craig brain box to the pump and let the PWM manage flow for a target temperature. I think at least I won't have to run the fan a lot.
With small aluminum pieces keeping things aligned is no problem, but with the big ones I brought out the clecos. Somehow some of them got rusty, which I blame on humidity, so I had to do some cleaning and lubricating to get them happy again.
My set of 1/8" clecos is pretty small so I have another 30 coming from the jungle website. I'll want to be able to remove all this tinwork to paint before it gets riveted for good.
Nice weather coming this weekend and I'm feeling really motivated to get the tinwork done for the interior.
Got more Clecos. Used them all up again. Almost out of aluminum too. The interior is really coming together now though.
I've grown a lot more comfortable with the bead roller, but I still make mistakes. Most you can't see but that acute corner at the top of one panel got me. I'll call it character.
Sheet metal is finally getting installed for realzies.
This has to be removable to check the center bearing and adjust the bisquit bar.
I likes Clecos.
Nice work.
Things that are motorcycle shaped - Hayabusas. Things that aren't motorcycle shaped - this thing. I'm wrangling the harness into position and making choices and where things that need to be cool can be cool and where things I need to be able to fiddle with can be fiddled with. One nice thing about motorcycle harnesses is that have a lot of weather protection so there's one less thing to worry about.
I do want to have things wired in a clean way without making things impossible to access. It took a lot of head scratching, but eventually the hole saw came out and we made some empty spaces. Now I need firewall grommets, which are oddly expensive IMO.
The ECU will get a home behind the dash. Electrical conduit things went back outside to the area above the radiator, which is also where the master shutoff will live so course workers have ample access to that and also the fire supression system I haven't begun to think about plumbing.
Any chance you could go into more detail on the bead rolling in process. I'm starting to plan the sheet metal work on my project and have no idea where to start.
In reply to bgkast (Forum Supporter) :
I'll put together a little bead rolling demo this weekend
Another hole made and some routing has things looking much more tidy. I'll make a little home for the ECU to live in on that panel. I need my firewall grommets to come from McMaster Carr before I can finalize things.
Since I was stalled on wires I moved to plumbing (again). The coolant system is now complete except for plumbing in the filler/swirl pot. Which I'm waiting on a single fitting for.
The lightweight Aeroquip hose is so nice to work with compared to the braided steel version.
In reply to DaveEstey :
I like the lightweight aramid stuff too. I hate getting stuck by the little wires while I try to put the ends on the stainless steel braid version. However, I have found that the aramid braid is not as abrasion resistant as the stainless steel version. So, if you have places where a panel or something rubs against the hose, you may want to put something there to buffer that. I have done things like split a short length of rubber radiator hose and tie wrapped it around the aramid hose where it rubs. Then I can check the rubber hose from time to time as replace it as I need to. I don't see any place in your photos where the hose rubs so that my not be an issue for you.
In reply to Kubotai :
I used bulkhead fittings to avoid rubs. This stuff isn't durable for abrasion at all.
Facebook isn't good for much, but the "Memories" stuff can be fun. One year ago I bought this car. I barely recognize it.
You've gotten a lot done in a year. And as a extra bonus all the work looks great. Do you think it will be running this summer?
In reply to nocones :
There's a test and tune event at Club Motorsports on April 28th that I'm targeting. I'm dropping the car off at a shop for a little fab work (fuel cell mount, oil cooler mount, exhaust) next week that should put me on the home stretch to running. They do great work so I'm excited to see what they do - especially with the exhaust. Meanwhile I'll be pulling all that interior aluminum for zinc oxide priming.
In reply to DaveEstey :
Do you think the biscuit bar is an advantage over a fixed third link on what is essentially a road race car now ? I had thought about trying it on my Challenge car, but went 4-link instead.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
A fellow hillclimber in a similar car (dwarf car with a Busa) suggested it. On hillclimbs it can really help and he has seen 1" of movement even with a 1,000lb spring on his. I'm unsure how much it will really do on road courses, but a little extra compliance and maintenance of rear traction is always a good thing in my book.
Not much motivation tonight. Got exposed to Covid for the second time this month and I'm too busy being mad at people. I fit up the nose duct to plan where the oil cooler should be. I probably won't use all this since it's WAY too much, but it's a ballpark of where the grill inlet is.
The air shifter only knows how to do a full throw up or down - no in between, which means it can't find neutral. Add in the fact that I don't want to use air everytime I park the can and you can quickly deduce that I need a manual shifter in addition.
Here's my leading design, which relies on a push-pull cable from the folks at Pegasus Auto. It will be set in the plate on top of the driveshaft tunnel, and there's ample room for it to do whatever it needs.
The shifter will be made nice to hold in the hand once the design is finalized.
suns out paint's out
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