Just a little teaser of whats coming... any one know what this is?
I said the transmission was a surprise... should be a pretty unique setup for an OBS pickup truck :-)
Just a little teaser of whats coming... any one know what this is?
I said the transmission was a surprise... should be a pretty unique setup for an OBS pickup truck :-)
In reply to Patientzero :
Yeah, there's a modern BMW wrapped around them!
I actually have no idea but excited to see where this goes.
In reply to Patientzero :
Not nears as many when you un-BMW them lol.
Upgrade the clutches
Up the clutch pressures to 18 bar
Add a serious cooler.
Dont run the factory ecu protocols and run your own tuning over the CANBUS or delete the mechatronix and go with something like the DKGEcu.
After that they're pretty good to go. When you compare them to a sequential, they're very reliable. Plus... if it blows up, they're cheap AF right now because no one swaps them into anything. I got this one for $750 and could of bought 5 more at that price.
9/10 they clutch failures from over heating or exceeding torque capacity. I'll run the factory clutch until I push past the 700whp mark and then I'll upgrade to the Dodson or SSP Spec R clutch setup. Theyll hold 1000hp. There are a good many M5s running around at the 900 wheel mark with these trans.
In reply to loudandproud :
Don't mind me. Show me how it's done and I'll put one in my C10 too, haha.
In reply to Patientzero :
stay tuned. It will either be awesome or a complete sh*t show. Only time will tell. Lol
Alot of information on the swap can be found here:
adam525i (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Patientzero :
Yeah, there's a modern BMW wrapped around them!
I actually have no idea but excited to see where this goes.
Haha, I've heard that the DCT is more reliable than the S65 in the E9x M3. The main failure point that I've read about on BMW forums is related to fluid leaks--too much gets out and the fluid level is incorrect and the transmission goes boom. And to make matters worse, the side pan gasket requires the transmission to pulled to change, so its ~$2000 to have it done at a dealer.
I'd think that on a BOF race truck there's be a bit more access than in a compact-ish sport sedan, hell, since its a racetruck and passengers are secondary, you could probably put an access panel to get to the passenger side of the transmission case.
@loudandproud, what're you doing for a transmission controller? Or will it be all manual. EDIT: just saw your maxxecu link
In reply to rothwem :
I am planning on having a dzus fastened panel under the center console that I can pull if need be. Need to check NHRA regs to see what is allowable.
The Maxxecu setup is option #1. That said if I go that route I'm tied to the firmware on the mechatronix unit. For me that may be a sticking point.
Option 2 is the HTG tuning standalone controller. It allows complete control of the trans, but it's another $1000 in an already blooming budget lol. Either way I'm sold on the MaxxEcu for engine management.
its flat out gangsta. The IO and features for the dollar is next level.
loudandproud said:In reply to rothwem :
I am planning on having a dzus fastened panel under the center console that I can pull if need be. Need to check NHRA regs to see what is allowable.
The Maxxecu setup is option #1. That said if I go that route I'm tied to the firmware on the mechatronix unit. For me that may be a sticking point.
Option 2 is the HTG tuning standalone controller. It allows complete control of the trans, but it's another $1000 in an already blooming budget lol. Either way I'm sold on the MaxxEcu for engine management.
its flat out gangsta. The IO and features for the dollar is next level.
Nice!
Next question is driveshaft, any worries about having a fairly complex transmission hooked to a solid axle? I guess you'd need some sort of expanding driveshaft to hook to it.
In reply to rothwem :
The make custom slip yoke driveshafts for this kind of swap. Theyre kinda salty but its pretty much a necessity as there arent any conversions for a slip yoke.
Driveshaftshop has them as "Standard" for a custom driveshaft lol.
Got the front coilover mounts on the chassis welded in. They have flanges at the top that will tie into the from cage assembly. Happy with how the turned out.
Also made the tie rod adapters for the front end. Should be plenty beefy.
So i haven't posted recently, but there has been some progress. I got the engine and transmission pulled from the truck. Also got the whole front end of the truck removed and stored for now.
This week i made a small transmission crossmember for the DCT. There is a plate that bolts to the trans, and then i use Heim joints with studs mounted through a rubber bushing to attach to the crossmember. The crossmember is very light, but should do the trick.
I also bought a Dry sump pump so that I can get the spare engine ready for mockup. Its important for the mockup that all of the big accessories are in place. That way I can get the engine position and clearances just right.
The pump is a Frank Weiss Racing Components 5 Stage Helix Rotor pump. Its a nice billet piece. The pump came with nice stainess tubing and BMR lines. Unfortunately its cheap to get rid of that stuff and go straight to AN hoses than it is to buy the needed Wiggins clamps and fittings to wrap it up as it sits.
Dry sumps are expensive lol. Ill have 3x as much in fittings, scavenge filters and hoses than I do into the actual pump.
Last thing i did was pull the rear out of the truck and modified the panhard bar and coilover mount to be in double shear. The single shear design was strong enough according to my calcs, but this is a just extra heavy duty.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Thank you. I like making the videos if anything just so i can go back and realize how much I've gotten done. Sometimes things slow down and i see the timestamps and realize I'm still making progress.
Got a good bit of work done this weekend.
1. Tore down, cleaned and polish out the dry sump. Just making sure any scuffs on the rotors werent fretting
2. Mockup 3D printed dry sump mount
3. Got my up and foward LTx headers in and full purge welding in the 8 EGT bungs. This was my first time welding stainless, learned i need to speed up!
4. Got all of the cab mounts cut out, welded up and mounted on the chassis. I made some nice little measurement gauges on the 3D printer to help locate them. Worked out great.
Well I got a lot of parts in and a good bit of work done.
Turbos showed up:
VS Racing
67/62 Billet Dual Bearing Turbo
1.01 A/R VBand turbine housing
Mirror image
Water cooled
Got dual 50mm VS Racing Wastegates as well
DomiWorks Engineer Adapter for the transmission showed up. What a sick piece. Super nice.
I also purchased a Holley Hi Ram with the PFI port provisions.
Last week i stripped the cab, and mounted it onto the chassis with some homemade 70A urethane bushing. They are sleeved with 1"x .1875" steel tubing to keep the cab from shearing off in the event of a roll over or T-Bone.
Next up... engine mounting and turbo hot side piping.
Curious why you went with EGT per cylinder instead of AFR?
Also, what kind of lathe is that? It looks very compact.
In reply to Patientzero :
It will have EGT per cylinder and Widebands measure AFR on both headers. Widebands will measure the bulk AFR of each side (4 cylinders). Since the MaxxEcu can run closed loop, it wont tell you if an issue pops up with an injector.
Imagine im targeting a .82 Lambda, and the engine is all happy. Great. Now say I pass a speck of debris into one of the injectors. The ECU will see that the bulk AFR in that bank will climb slightly, and it will try to make a correction to all of the cylinders in that bank. The bulk AFR will come down to .82, but 3 of the cylinders will be rich and one will be lean. No bueno on a high boost turbo setup.
Having each EGT measured allows my to put safeties in the tune that say if Cylinder X is Y °F away from the average, throw a warning. If cylinder X is Z°F away from the average, Throw a warning, open the wastegates, pull timing, and dump 30% fuel enrichments almost instantly.
The ECU is sampling non stop. It can react faster than i ever could to a change in power or sound. You just have to provide it with the inputs it needs and the logic to do it.
Putting telemetry on the engine and programming safeties prevents me from burning down the engine.
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