Double check to make sure the rustoleum is compatible with urethane before you start spraying on the car. Most auto top coats will react with "rustoleum" type paints.
Edit: if not, Kirker Epoxy primer is dirt cheap and doing well on stuff I have out in full sun over the last year. (Even leftover stuff brushed on over rusty crap I wiped down with leftover Ospho.)
The paint I'm looking at is an acrylic enamel (their cheapest). I've read elsewhere it plays nice with the Rustoleum primer, but we'll see.
Looking forward to seeing where it ends!
Trying to keep this down to 100 hours and 1 gallon of Bondo, so compromises are being made. But so is progress.
About 20 hours and a half gallon of filler in. This was the "bad" side, so hopefully the other side won't take as much. It's hard to show progress on this stuff but it helps me to post it anyway.
I thought it looked cool last year at the challenge. Going look even better this year!
Got the car turned around. Still starts! I swear this is the "good" side. Plenty left in the $20 bucket of Bondo.
NOHOME
UltimaDork
4/29/19 7:29 p.m.
I am impressed with the work you are doing. This is looking downright respectable.
Let me assure you, I was not anywhere as frugal when I was slinging mud on the Molvo.
Pete
That car only has good sides.
Adam
Final skim, I hope. Still have almost a quart of filler left, but I'm saving that after a coat of primer for any obvious trouble spots.
It won't be perfectly flat, because there ain't enough Bondo in the world, but it should be pretty smooth.
How did you take care of the welds in the angle between original body lines and horizontal part of flare?
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Just kinda ran the edge of a spatula down in the corner and it rounded out pretty good. Then sanded with my finger.
In reply to maschinenbau :
Looking good. I'm going to try and stop by on the way North thru Atlanta (with the Jaaaaag) May 11th to check this out. Text me your address and we'll coordinate.
I was getting ready for masking and all that, then realized now would be a good time to gut the hood before it's painted.
Here is a 33 lb hood.
Lightweighting Stage I. 3 lbs gone. Everything is held together with seam sealer from the factory, so it's easy to take apart.
Lightweighting Stage II. 8 lbs gone. Much more flimsy.
If seam sealer works from the factory, it'll work for me. Hopefully it's not too floppy or I'll have to fab up some hood pins.
Stripped down for paint. Lots of scrubbing and cleaning, both the car and the garage.
5 hours of masking and taping later, the window trim is painted. Once it's dry, I'll mask the trim off and start primer on the body.
Azryael
New Reader
5/4/19 9:05 p.m.
This is gonna be exciting to see.
Here she is all taped up.
Aaaaand we have primer!
After adjusting the Harbor Fart HVLP spray gun on a piece of masking paper, I gave it a shot on the bumpers. It immediately did this:
Not cool. I had mixed something like 2:1 primer to lacquer thinner. So that's a no-go. Then I tried 1:1. Much better.
Best shots I could get of the texture. I've never shot paint before, so I can't tell if it's actually good, but it feels good. Very consistent like a good matte. It looks much bumpier than it feels. Could be the gun was clogging or my pressures/settings weren't right. But it should sand nicely I think.
This is the only major noticeable non-flatness. I just might have to tackle this one.
This was the "bad" side. This fender was on the PO's car when he wrecked his other 210, so he swapped fenders with his parts car, now known as my race car. There are some many patches and hammerings in this one shot that no one will ever know about.
Here's the setup if anyone is curious. I am shooting Rustoleum "surfacer" automotive primer, mixed with lacquer thinner, through the HF HVLP gun with a 1.8mm tip. That filter/staining stand from HF is a must! $20 for a 2-pack of quarts at Home Depot and I used just a little of the 2nd quart. I will probably need a 3rd quart. I had to special order this stuff online after reading tons of reviews and got to experience those nifty online order pickup lockers for the first time. This morning, once I realized I was ready to shoot, I went back to HD and had them run each can through their shaker machine. Lots of reviews online talk about the high solids content and how difficult it is to mix. I won't pretend to know what all that means, but I didn't notice many chunks and I'm happy with how it worked out.
On my other bench I have a bucket with "used" thinner for cleaning the drill-powered mixer between coats. I spin the mixer in the thinner before and after mixing, then pour the mixed paint through the strainer into the gun's container.
Looking good! Watching someone else do bodywork and paint in a thread on the internet is so much more fun than when I do it.
2 quarts wasn't quite enough for 2 full coats of primer, so I had to crack into a 3rd for one last spray gun full. Another $10 from the budget I guess. Everything is sanded to 400ish 600ish so the sanding is DONE.
I'm really tired but I pushed through and got the first light coat of color #1 on. I switched to the 1.4mm tip. Rustoleum brand paint thinned with lacquer thinner 1:1 and a splash of hardener stolen from the kit for color #2. It sprayed great and I'm really excited to unwrap this present, probably another week from now.
1:1 ???
10% is usually more what I'm used to...viscosity can change quick when adding thinner.
Tralfaz said:
1:1 ???
10% is usually more what I'm used to...viscosity can change quick when adding thinner.
Also confused on 1:1. But I'll be honest, when I spray rustoleum or tractor paint (aka cheap enamel) I just mix it by how it looks/feels and add a little hardener. Urethane paint I use measuring cups with those handy ratios marks built in.
But progress is looking good. Really digging how it is turning out.
My rustoleum jobs are pretty close to 1:1. Valspar rust tough is a little thicker, so roughly 1:1.5
Add a splashof hardener.
In reply to maschinenbau :
Sorry to have missed you today. See you in October.
bigfranks84 said:
Tralfaz said:
1:1 ???
10% is usually more what I'm used to...viscosity can change quick when adding thinner.
Also confused on 1:1. But I'll be honest, when I spray rustoleum or tractor paint (aka cheap enamel) I just mix it by how it looks/feels and add a little hardener. Urethane paint I use measuring cups with those handy ratios marks built in.
But progress is looking good. Really digging how it is turning out.
It's intended to be applied with a brush. You have to thin it quite a bit to get it spray and lay flat.