Grrrrrrrr, why do people do stupid things? The last item was to drop the front subframe and swap out the sway bar for the Eibach one. Everything was going well, until the last two bolts. They thread into threads INSIDE a boxed section of the “frame”. The threaded parts are round and attached with old bubble gum. So of course, they popped and the bolt just spins and spins. Swear Word!!!! The engineer at Ford responsible should be severely beaten.
So I have to cut a slot into the sheet metal to gain access.
The “nut” is perfectly round, so you can’t put a wrench on it, you need Vice Grips.
Luckily, I have some small ones. Now I have to remove the “nut” somehow, and replace with a real nut, then seal up the hole . Then repeat on the passenger side. Grrrrrrrr.
Thats the offending nut. It appears that there was a small tab that went into a slot to keep it from spinning, but the tab bent and the slot got ripped out. Cheap sheet metal, bad design. So they are out, better it’s are going in.
Got one set of bolts sorted, had to buy M10-1.5 nuts because I was fresh out. Decided to cover the holes to keep the salt and corrosion at bay.
When putting the subframe back on, one of the really big bolts refused to go in. I started another thread in that issue, thanks to everyone’s help I got it resolved without a sledgehammer or flamethrower.
Now all I have left to do is brake lines, alignment, and a final tune. And washing and waxing. And belts. And maybe exhaust.
This car is fighting me!!!! Today’s mission is to find a clamp for a CV boot that fits. I swear I am ready to tow this thing to the Hyundai dealer and trade it for an N!
In reply to pinchvalve :
I have used stainless safety wire in this application many times with good success. Go around twice before twisting it tight, and be careful not to over tighten it. Also have had some success with a nylon tie wrap, but not 100%
OK, so Napa sells CV boot clamps with notches along the length of the strap making it more useful than what O'Reilly had. Actually, it was useful period... the other was not at all. That crimp connection leaves little room for adjustment! No photos because I was frustrated and its not that exciting.
Then I had to top up the transmission fluid that drained out. Went to several stores, but none carry the DCTF that the FiST requires. What the heck is this magic stuff? Had to order it from Motorcraft. Again, no photos because refilling fluid is boring.
Then I swapped out the OEM brake lines for SS lines from StopTech. Nothing exciting to report, other than I spent 40 minutes looking for my brake bleeding equipment and never found it. Its a one car garage people! Used the wife to bleed them without issue. No pictures because my hands were full.
One little project I also undertook was slotting the strut towers. Most camber plates and coil overs cannot be adjusted without removal of the strut or opening the center hole significantly. Neither were good options for me, so I went this route. It was also cheaper and easier. I went 4mm inward with a Dremel tool and a steady hand.
I also added camber bolts to the lower strut mounts and can visibly see that I finally have some negative camber. An alignment will indicate how much.
The plan is to adjust the bolts when changing the tires for a race to minimize tire wear between events, and push the strut tops back out over the off-season.
She sits a little lower and drives like an absolute beast. The snow tires prevent me from seeing much handling improvement, but the season starts soon. Next up, custom tune.
Took her out this weekend for a shakedown. The lowered suspension and stiffer swaybars don't degrade the ride much at all, I think the Progressive Swift R springs work as advertised. I mean it's still not a Buick, but its as tolerable as stock even on rougher roads. It will spin my old snow tires through 3rd gear, and even exiting a bend in 4th I have to be careful. Can't wait to get it on 200TW and see what she can do.
Got some summer tires mounted, went with Kumho based on good wet-weather ratings and a really good price. Was going to get some DD wheels to replace the OEMs, but decided to put $$$ towards entry fees instead. Besides, I whack a lot of curbs so better to keep beating up the same wheels. I have RFP1s for events anyway.
I am getting some rubbing of the rear tires against the felt lining of the wheel wells (who thought felt was a good idea?) so I have some work to do to secure those. It only happens in reverse, so as long as I keep moving forward I'm OK!
Took the time to clay bar and wax the car as well, nothing on the level of a pro detailer mind you, just wanted to make her shiny for the summer racing season. Last step is the installation of Schroth belts and the Fiesta STH is ready to go!
Loose fender liner material was rubbing, put a hole through one side.
Pretty simple fix, add another retainer.
Mmmmmm, braids.
The OEM sway bar end links made a lot of noise after the suspension upgrades, so I went for some beefier units. Good thing, the originals were bent. Will have to play with settings on the adjustable links.
