Not having fun yet.....
Not having fun yet.....
Italian spaghetti!
I didn't have everything I needed to finish the job but I got 1 working....not too bad and certainly much improved. I forgot to put the charger on the battery so this is 12V video, its a bit faster at 13.7.
Getting back to the clutch switch while i wait on the connectors and relays to finish up the window....the switch I ordered is pretty worthless as it's neither M8 nor an actual switch, its 5/16 and "switch" is just the spade connector hitting thr body. Back to searching and 1 star for this pos.
Oh man that's gold haha
Best of luck with the next switch
Would it be helpful to use one of the hydraulic banjo bolt switches? My wife has one of those on her Ducati for the clutch switch since the aftermarket levers she got didn't work with the stock clutch switch. You can't dial it in to throw only when the clutch pedal is depressed the whole way, but it does prevent you from starting it in gear with your foot off the clutch. Super simple and no linkage or mechanical fussing.
maybe, I do have a hydraulic clutch but hadn't honestly considered a switch like that.
That guy should be sitting in an amazon package in the garage now waiting for me.....its is an M8.
The idea with a clutch switch was to eventually let me do a launch control of some kind as well telling the ECU not to trust the RMP/wheel speed ratio to determine gear selection as the clutch is likely slipping. It was the gear selection I was mostly thinking about when I decide to mount the clutch switch next to the brake switch so touch the pedal, trigger the switch....but that might not be all that helpful for launch control.....hmmmmm
even cuter in person
window parts (relays, connectors). I used a different brand relay to help me remember which are OEM and match the manual and which I added. That's all neat and working right now.
The $6.89 with shipping glass I ordered off ebay for the tach came...the old busted tach I used as the base had a pretty poor glass. Now I just need the transfers to finish that
I think the very last item on the for now list is figuring out why the gas pedal binds with the front center console installed...oh and seeing if I can get the super cute little switch to work.
Called the shop yesterday, they promised to call me back later...so yeah, its time for me to call again today . I'm feeling this is the week it needs to come home.
Also thinking about maybe switching to non-water based coolant such as Evans coolant. I think a lot of my surface corrosion where coolant spilled was probably related to soot from the fire which should now be resolved, but it got me thinking about leaks and rust pitted cylinders and maybe now that everything is drained I should blow it all out and switch to coolant that really can't ever corrode anything ever again. I've use similar products in industrial applications but never used it in a car....this might be the time though.
So a few weeks ago after I called 6 or 10 times and finally got an answer I was told the loud ringer was broken in the shop was broken but they were about to call me back. Monday I called and got no answer but they called back a few minutes later, Pauly wasn't in yet but he'd call me later in the day.....I called Tuesday-no answer of call back, just called now.....and I guess I'll call every hour or so......its time this gets done.
Edit: got him this time "he never called you? he's weld but I'm writing it down and he will call you back when he's done."
Now, I know that no call back means he had nothing to tell me but thought he'd get to it later so better to wait, I've had that experience many times over the years.....it means that after what 3 months? waiting I'll be honing it myself this weekend. 
Got a call tonight so its official....they can't hone it. I'll pick everything up tomorrow or Friday. About 5 or 6 thou per cylinder needs to come out....an hour or 2 each I guess so maybe done this weekend but most likely it pushed through next weekend.
First awesome project!
I did not though i could help in that thread.. for your cracked switch repair, abs can be melt by acetone. So applying aceton to the gap will glue it back. You can also melt scrap abs of the desired color in a small container, adjusting desired consistency by adding acetone.
It give you a paste or paint si repair and rebuild abs parts.
Thats is what i do on old motorcycle fairing.
Sucks that they took that long to say they can't... I had a similar frustrating event on the first iteration of my V6 build and that's nowhere near as exciting/involved (does anyone have an engine more involved?) as what you have here.
They will have it at the door for me at 8am tomorrow to grab on my way to the office.....we try to keep covid opportunities to a minimum.
I think I can hand hone it with the cylinders in place.....I'll know friday for sure. If not I'll make something to support the thin spigot end and hone them on the bench. One way or the other they are getting honed and the engine is going back together.
physician said:First awesome project!
I did not though i could help in that thread.. for your cracked switch repair, abs can be melt by acetone. So applying aceton to the gap will glue it back. You can also melt scrap abs of the desired color in a small container, adjusting desired consistency by adding acetone.
It give you a paste or paint si repair and rebuild abs parts.
Thats is what i do on old motorcycle fairing.
thanks. I'm honestly not sure what the molded material is....I was able to fuse but nylon and abs to it whatever it is. I'm not sure if I'd trust the acetone paste for structural repair but I'll bet that would be an easier way to make it pretty on top than trying to build up and smooth with a soldering iron
Baby came home today.....and it looks like the honing shouldn't be a problem, it reaches the bottom easily. I'll get to it tomorrow
Well, its every bit as much a such job as I suspected. About 45 minutes to get the piston in and 70 minutes with the course stones to get to .0025 clearance on the 1st hole. My plan is take the last thou with the fine stones so on to hole 2.
Have you seen this video? It is pretty amazing 2.3 liter v12 Kawasaki
Reminded me very much of what you are doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnXUx4cYdHA
As I finished up the 4th I realized they were not turning out as good as I thought. I was sliding the piston in up side down so I could hold it easily and all seemed fine, but flip it right side up and it became clear the bottom of the cylinder was coming out undersize, at last inch maybe. So I stopped, pulled the liners and cleaned everything up (I use a little sealant on the o-ring because I don't trust the seat in the block that is made of weld).
Tomorrow I'll set the mill up to hone these. Out of the block thy heat up fast, the last time I remember I kept rotating thought them lie 10-15 minutes at a time...so will probably be the plan again.
OjaiM5 said:Have you seen this video? It is pretty amazing 2.3 liter v12 Kawasaki
Reminded me very much of what you are doing.
I hadn't seen that one, but I had seem others of his work...he builds some cool stuff and is smart enough not to try to modify every single piece at the same time 
Am I the only person who saw the "smile" in the piston?
I'm going to go ahead and ignore the p....is drawing
I found the fixture and setup the mill this morning
The 4 tapered cylinders straighten right out. I moved the last on the rear bank and was ecstatic that after like 5 minutes each the pistons dropped in and I started the other 6 while these cooled.....then I kind of realized that the machine shop had played with the other 2 and not in the block the cylinder flexes easily....so yeah, it was 30-40 minutes each before there was any need to even try measuring. Right now 7 are an honest 2.5 clearance and the other 5 are maybe 1-2.
On the mill held by the flange the spigot heats up fast, and also flexes a lot, which makes it expand and not hone nearly as quickly as the flange end so there is a chase the taper game where I kind of guess how much extra time to spend on the spigot then after a couple minutes the WD-40 is smoking and its time to move to the next. I'm getting there but this is why I really wanted to pay the shop to do it....and my should aches now after running the quill all day.I'm guessing 6-8 more hours to get them all finish at 3.5.
Did you get a believeable story from the shop about why they supposedly couldn't do this work? Or were you just so sick of their crap that you were glad to get it home?
Syscrush said:Did you get a believeable story from the shop about why they supposedly couldn't do this work? Or were you just so sick of their crap that you were glad to get it home?
Yeah.....the main bearing webs overlap the bores so it requires a special hone head to really do a decent job and they don't have it....but they could have told me that 3 months ago so I'm glad to get it home....glad other than I am not in any way enjoying honing it myself. I did a couple hours tonight and am hoping to be done by the weekend and on to the line lapping, asked to borrow a lapping bar today so I'm planning that as the weekend work.
Good luck with it.
I'm no expert on honing, but to me that seems like a lot of material to remove that way. I would have thought that to guarantee proper piston clearances you'd have to bore them to size in the engine with torque plates in place, then use the hone only for getting the desired surface finish. Maybe with sleeves there's less/no risk of the deformation?
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