Future AWD swap

I want to do a AWD swap to some unknown shell at this point. 

Using an LS type motor or a vortec 4200. 

So the most logical thing to do is buy an S10 4x4 frame right? I am going to use this thread to document some measurements and ideas for setting up the AWD swap. 
 

I am planning to use the flat bed that I also bought for a woods trailer as it seems like a nice size. 
 

Also purchased were the centerline wheels with pretty cool wheel caps. 
 

Not a lot of other similarities, but this sits on a shortened S10 frame. 

In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :

Interesting , is there a build thread for that? I need to learn some more about the shortening or lengthing of the frame. 
 

How is yours lowered? It looks like a nice stance  

I've always wanted to do the AWD S10 conversion.  Good luck!

I tried to get some more pictures so I could study the front suspension a little bit. But the lighting wasn't great where I was parked. 

This axle seems like a crazy steep angle. I am guessing that is because 1. No weight on the front end 2. Maybe they used the torsion bars to give it a lift? 
 

The rear axle has  some large homemade shackles. 

 

One S10 rolling frame turned into two S10 rolling frames. 
 

This one seems in a lot better shape. It has been stretched 40" for some one else's frame swap that never got finished. 
 

It started as a ZR2 frame so there are some differences, but it came with the 8.5" 10 bolt with the factory locker option. 
 

The frame is almost fully boxed.

I think my plan is to let the tension all the way out of the torsion bars and see how low I can get the frame relative to the ground. 
 

My shell that I want to get this into has about 34" from the ground to the hood so I will need to be able to get it under that. Including the ls or 4200. I need to look up the 4200 Bc it might be 34" tall just by itself. But I don't know if that include the oil pan or not. 

Hmmm not a lot of room even with the ls based motors. 
 

Normal ride height in the front is with the bump stops contacting or even slightly compressed.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Is that humor? Or is that actually how it is? Seems like an odd design if that is the case. 
 

***Edit. Looks like that is the case. Does that mean they use the bump stops like part of the suspension? 

Apparently they do.  It's not unheard of for automakers to use the bumpstops for a progressive spring rate, but it always struck me as odd how Chevy used the bumpstop so aggressively on this chassis.

The torsion bar fullsize trucks were similar.

I gave up on the idea of AWD LS swapping my Volvo wagon. I think that big of a project is too far beyond my skills. 
 

So I added to the fleet again. Should be a more proven path to AWD LS swap goodness. 
 

This will definitely be a project. My plan is to use some of the parts off of the other frames I have to put a front suspension back on this. The previous owner was going with custom control arms and coilovers. He also started to change some of the front of the frame to a tube frame setup. 
 

I am hoping all the factory mounts for the control arms, front differential, and steering are still on the frame. I haven't looked as it yet up close to see. 
 

I also bought 3 transfercases, 2 transmissions, and a slew of other parts that the guy had as well. 
 

I approve of this acquisition 

Having a 99 2wd Astro, and a 98 AWD Astro, I'm interested in this build. Might also have some parts for ya!

I also have a couple questions:

1) What is the goal for this build? 
2) With that, what are the thoughts between AWD and 4wd. 

I was planing to convert an Astro to 4wd, with an early s10 transfer case (4 low, manual lever) but the parts truck I ended up with was the fancy AWD/4wd electronic combo. Not what I wanted!

The '98 Astro still had the viscous coupling T case; '99 went to computer controlled clutch slippage to direct power to front/rear bias.  IIRC, the '98 style is same as GM used for the Scylone/Typhoon. 
Also from memory , the AT to Tcase bolt pattern is 5 on s10/Astro, and 6 bolt on full size trucks/vans. 
Curtis bought a full size AWD van not too long ago. 
the Astro stuff is s10 size, but wider, with b body parts mixed in. 

In reply to Patrick :

Too bad your done with the challenge. I could use a teammate that knows what their doing ha. 

In reply to 03Panther :

Goal for the build is a tame challenge budget version of this:

One of the transfercases I bought with it is a bw4472. Plan is to find a cheap ls type donor with the 4l60e and slap the 4472 on and get it running and driving.

I want AWD for the performance aspect and that has been my goal from the start of this thread. 
 

I remember when the scyclone/typhoon came out, and was quite impressed with the straight line launch. Between the turbo and the AWD, they were quite quick!

I've asked on here before, (about Astro's, but without any responses). What are the advantages and/or disadvantages on handling (in a vehicle not known for its handling) between RWD and AWD, all else being equal?

I wasn't being snarky with the questions... I'm genuinely interested in following this. 

I don't remember all the tcase #'s; is the 4472 the viscous coupling case?

In reply to 03Panther :

Yes the 4472 is the viscous case

My thoughts on the AWD are

1. More traction available through a AWD set up vs just a rwd blazer given all else remaining the same.

2. Less stress on drivetrain components ie axles, differential etc due to splitting the force front and rear rather than all rear  

Good info. Thanks! 
I assume you have enough parts and projects, and would not be interested in a couple of astros, down here in Alabam'? 98 AWD, and 99 2wd.  I once had plans for both, but likely never will. 

After looking over the front end of the frame a little more there is one spot that is bothering me a little bit, that is where the previous owner cut up the lower control arm mounting point some. 
 

I will have to decide if I am comfortable with that  or if I will reinforce it, or what I am going to do. 
 

Any advice is welcomed 

box over the top after you get the arm on and know how much clearance you need at full compression plus a little wiggle room