I could be way off here, but if you did a full clearing of the ecm then you may also have reset the long term fuel trims to zero. If the vehicle had a progressive failure of a component and the management was able to compensate enough to keep it running resetting it to default may have screwed your over a bit.
In reply to 1SlowVW :
Yep. Soooooo, any suggestions for recovery?
I know at this point I'da been texting Pat a few hours ago saying what did I berk up?
Use your scan tool or tach to confirm the ecu is seeing a signal when it’s cranking over.
Once you know the ecu is seeing a crank signal move on to the basics as stated above. It ran before so you can assume you have compression. So make sure your getting spark. Then go onto fuel.
Its still just a motor, if everything is right it will run.
Not to get off topic but I sent you an email and text about the LS parts I have for sale, hadn't heard back from you at all just wanted to see if you got them
In reply to edizzle89 :
Email must have gotten bounced ( I truly hate Yahoo ), but I did get your text. I forget why, but couldn't immediately respond, then life distracted me...
Maybe, might have found the problem.... Cracked elbow connector for the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. Ordered a new one. Fingers crossed it fixes no start condition.
If no start persists put original crank sensor back in and check wiring closely
In reply to Patrick :
No start was happening before crank sensor replacement. Wiring harness has been thoroughly checked. (It was/is disgusting) but no sign of damaged wires.
SUCCESS !!!!
I got it running again!
Plugs.
A buddy of mine came over after work and we check them. At least two were sparking down low in the core area.
I hadn't checked them because the previous owner's "mechanic" just replaced them. (Note one was certainly not changed, it was a different type, and fouled the worst.)
aw, man. those were fine! cant see the problem there.
were you cheap like me, and try cleaning them first? only to figure out that, for whatever reason, you cant clean and reuse new plugs?
Autolite, but they don't!
Electrons are fickle bastards. I've pulled way worse looking plugs out of perfectly fine running vehicles.
I checked plugs in Datsaniti after the 2018 Challenge. All were more than double the gap, and two coil boots were completely filled with oil. Ran totally fine.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
No, didn't try that, due to the broken core, arcing low symptom. I needlessly through new coils & wires at this thing, because I was a fool and believed the plugs were fine, without even pulling them. NEVER ever trust anything the previous owner of a $350 vehicle tells you.
Note to self: Iridium Plugs ONLY in the 5.3. Platinum plugs just burn out due to the super high output truck coils. Here's the plugs I put in there now. (bought from AutoZone at $7.99 each) replace with a cheaper option later for challenge budget purposes.
In reply to vwcorvette & maschinenbau:
I know right ! ? !
In reply to Indy-Guy :
And then you made the burn out video?
Why is Humpie in the garage?
Has he taken his last drive?
Lets hope it is the last drive. The more of these vehicles removed from service to donate their engines the better.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Yes. Definitely last drive. This one is no longer road worthy.
I spent ALL day pulling the transmission out of this junk. It's super tight and crowded and oily and dirty. Gross. But it's out.
I need cash to pay for the challenge, and a co-worker of mine needed the tranny for his truck, so Win-win.
Why is the torque converter still attached to the flexplate?
Clearly, it is because Brian likes to party
Stampie said:Why is the torque converter still attached to the flexplate?
Because that chassis is a bitch and three quarters to get the converter bolts off through the very corner of the starter opening with many long extensions and a swivel.
In reply to Patrick :
That sucks. Can you drop everything with the subframe?
Patrick said:Stampie said:Why is the torque converter still attached to the flexplate?
Because that chassis is a BITCH and three quarters to get the converter bolts off through the very corner of the starter opening with many long extensions and a swivel.
This. 1000x this.
After Eight hours into the job, when you hit that obstacle, you say Berk it, and just yank it out and leave the converter hanging.
Stamps, this is BOF, no subframes to speak of. I speak from experience, the best way to do this would have been sawzall everything out of the way and lift the engine,trans together because it sucks that hard to pull one or the other, especially if you need to reinstall because you’re not junking said vehicle.
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