In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
That's a respectable approach to this engine.
First off, nice score. Happy that it is in as good a shape as it is. That cam has proven results, good choice. My son and I are in the planning stages of an LS swap into an '85 El Camino, so will be following this. You may be able to use the existing exhaust manifolds, without losing much on the hp end. Curious if the intake will clear the hood. From what I can gather, the sock ecm can be reflashed, not sure if this applies to your application., or if it really works.
John Welsh said:In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
"Baby, you're much too fast"
It's not the prince of darkness. It's the prince of sports cars!
Poorvette update:
- It's going to be the 5.3. The more work I pile on myself the less that gets done. Reality is a clear and concise bitch.
- I got a chance to visit with Warren and Keenan Martin today and picked up a LS1 intake and a set of C5 manifolds. I always feel better after a cool car guy chat fest.
- As long as parts arrive properly and weather allows I am giving myself a 6 week time frame to have battery back in and fuel system test.
Total project scope: 5.3L, Truck Norris, LS1 intake, L59 injectors with spacers on LS4 fuel rail, 2002 L59 ECU, Nathan Wei harness, C5 Corvette manifolds, stock exhaust, stock converter, TH700R4, ICT Billet motor mount adapters, alternator and AC brackets, ProThane poly mount inserts, MaxSpeedingRods Android stereo running Torque Pro and controlling CT Sounds CT150.4D and CT1500.1D amplifiers powering CT Sounds Meso 6.5 3 way up front, Meso 6.5 2 way out back and a single Tropo 12-D4 at 2 ohm in a ported box in the rear storage box.
In reply to Dirtydog (Forum Supporter) :
Truck intake and exhaust manifolds will not work, nor will the balancer, pan, or accessory drive.
LS1/6 intake will fit under the hood.
3/4 mid dump exhaust manifolds will work, which is what the C5/6 are (look at Dusterbuds headers on the Nascdart).
Oil pan and water pump are Camaro.
Balancer is G8/CTS-V
Funny, the MaxSpeedingRods Android stereo got really good reviews, Youtube-wise. Makes one wonder how they, um, "underperformed" with regards to their other offerings.
In reply to 2GRX7 :
Honestly I think k it depends on what underperformance is to the individual. I had some MSR crap on the Lexus and it was genuinely okay. No it wasn't premium brand name quality and there were obvious points where stuff was cheapened but in all fairness, it was exactly what I paid for.
The RCA output side of the MSR head unit and the recent improvements to the Android Auto wireless load in and that Torque seems to work well on it kinda makes it an obvious answer for me. It's a $200 head unit that doubles as an Android dash and will push all six channels and 11 speakers I eventually plan on installing. To be transparent I will not be touching that system before the exhaust is welded and the engine is tuned.
Items being used:
-ICT mount plates $30
-Prothane mount inserts $60
-LS1 intake $60
-LS4 fuel rail with AN adapter $125
-L59 Fuel rail cap adapters $20
-ICT -1 G8/CTS-V alternator/PS bracket (uses C4 power steering pump) $175
-F body pan $169
-C5 manifolds (C6 will also work) $60
-Return regulator with AN adapters and lines $160
-Nathan Wei harness $270
-Amazon LS truck cold air kit $60
-Flywheel with bolts and spacer $90
-Detent bracket $25
Still looking for a "not truck" throttle valve. I will also be running a little Truck Norris cam and decapping the Flex Fuel injectors
QuasiMofo (John Brown) said:In reply to 2GRX7 :
Honestly I think k it depends on what underperformance is to the individual. I had some MSR crap on the Lexus and it was genuinely okay. No it wasn't premium brand name quality and there were obvious points where stuff was cheapened but in all fairness, it was exactly what I paid for.
The RCA output side of the MSR head unit and the recent improvements to the Android Auto wireless load in and that Torque seems to work well on it kinda makes it an obvious answer for me. It's a $200 head unit that doubles as an Android dash and will push all six channels and 11 speakers I eventually plan on installing. To be transparent I will not be touching that system before the exhaust is welded and the engine is tuned.
Totally agree: Underperformance is relative. Are these a tenth of the performance of a set of KWs? I don't know, but I do know they'll get me through the Challenge, sooo YES! Wondering-are those coil-overs capable of being easily opened up like where the shaft and the body come together?
I have an idea for a product for GM lockup transmissions.
For 700r4s it would look for a 4th gear signal (pressure switch) as well as a vacuum signal, a brake signal input, and a digital timer. I just need to figure out how I could control it, essentially it would see:
4th gear selected
Light load from vacuum
No brake input
Timer set to X seconds
Once all met then engage lockup
I think a Raspberry Pi is a little too much controller and Arduino could but possibly not work how I expect.
I want it to be a "set and forget" function.
The same product could see signal inputs from various transmissions and essentially operate the same way, in theory.
Anyone have any suggestions on what could control something like this?
The Doorman LS6 manifold is a great performance steal, they used the lower from the FAST manifold. If you could fit a fast 102 (700-900) and the chinesium 102Tbody of ebay (150) you will be in much better shape ~+25hp (albeit pricey).
The Dorman LS6 hits the wiper motor. Stock LS1 does not.
With the spacer and 92mm (vs the 102) I will be better than the truck TB but not lose tip in response which I am already giving up by running the LS1. The big hole works great for the top of RPM range.l bit I will not see 5500rpm.
So it has dawned on me that my Factory Corvette PCM will be staying in the car for a few specific reasons. It will see the speed. If I do not unwire it, it will see the transmission. Will it simply lock up the transmission as well?
In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
It will most likely need to see your TPS voltage as well as your map sensor voltage to operate lockup
Sounds like an Arduino with a relay board could do what you want.
- Connect 4th gear switch to a digital input (assuming it's ground referenced, so goes to ground when in 4th gear). If it goes to 12V when in 4th however, not sure that the Arduino would be happy about that. I assume these switches are all ground-referenced though.
- Not sure what happens if you tap into the existing MAP sensor (wouldn't want to do something to upset the ECU readings), so maybe get a cheap generic GM-compatible sensor on Amazon. Wire it up with the 5V out from the Arduino and the signal line back to an analog input.
- Brake switched is also usually ground-referenced, so connect that to another digital in.
- Connect a relay board (generic ones available cheap on Amazon). Arduino will switch the relay, relay will switch the lockup.
- Arduino UNO / Nano can take 12V power input on paper. In practice, I've burned up a couple boards when playing with 12V. If I were building this I would also make a simple circuit with a 7805 and two capacitors to regulate the 12V down to 5V. That circuit is commonly available online.
The code sounds simple enough, but then everything sounds simple until you try it.
Couple minor accomplishments
License plate is mounted and motivating.
I thought that I had made a good series of choices by going LS1 intake, L59 injectors, spacer adapters, LS4 rail... except I accidentally bought the wrong rail.
Did you know that you can put L59 injectors in a LS1 intake using a LS2 rail and only have to modify the hold down tabs slightly?
So geeked that I started designing a new T shirt for this thing!
In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
vanity plate and t-shirts are truly critical path. MONZORA plate has 3 layers of expired stickers on it!
So I made another purchase while waiting for a few bits to arrive.
There is a company out of Tennessee that makes a standalone LS control system, Aces Fuel Systems. They are inexpensive, performance minded and have pretty good customer service.
Their controller can be told to run either 24x or 58x, they can control 4L60e and 4L80e transmissions and have a lot of flexibility with Nitrous, Turbo, Launch control etc.
I chose the lower priced unit that does not control the transmission, I am currently all in for $830 shipped, so I will have a well built standalone harness and 2002 ECU for sale pretty cheap one the bugs are worked out of the Aces unit.
Take a look at their stuff.
In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
I have heard not good things about the Aces Products but that has been from Holley Fanbois so maybe that isn't true. Theses units are rebadged fitech components (or so I read) which doesn't have a good reputation either.
FiTech is using them now as well as Summit, I know of two of the LS setups running currently one a DBC manual, like I am getting, the other a turbo DBW 4L80e setup. The C1500 DBC setup is pretty bland and drives like a stock truck, which is exactly what the guy wants. The turbo Fox body is rowdy with a chopsuey cam and the efi seems to keep up.
We will see if there is any issues. I've got a warranty and a forum full of people that will be happy to trash talk them if they are E36 M3ty.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
So there were some pictures I took of an empty engine bay Wednesday talking about 30 minutes at a time then the weekend hit and this happened...
So I am kind of stuck with too many Corvettes.
My options are:
1:Finish C4 LS swap 2: Build cheap 350 carbed setup for C4 and send it. 3: Part out C4 4: Sell as an unfinished project.
Corvette problems, am I right?
At this point we all need QuasiMofo shirts and multiple gold chains. Bro, when you decide to party, you go HARD.
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