^^ thanks. yea, wanted to squeeze them in there, without breaking the plane of the top of the frame rails... just finished the hangers. hope to get it back onteh ground later this week.
^^ thanks. yea, wanted to squeeze them in there, without breaking the plane of the top of the frame rails... just finished the hangers. hope to get it back onteh ground later this week.
after much internal debate, I smoothed out the welds on the now boxed in rear frame. even hit it with some spray paint, which will eventually be slightly disturbed by the roll cage landing somewhere in here...
done some redneck ceramic coating.... grill spray paint rated at 1200deg. used it before, its decent stuff. I needed to do this since my mig wire is ferrous and the welds would rust, even though the exhaust is stainless... also, need to hide the atrocities I performed on this ~$1500 bassani system!
Lots of nice attention to detail. This is going to be a good looking kart!
back on all fours again. happy with the look and clearances. routing the parking brake was tricky, but found a good solution. looks pretty butch from the back, will be even tougher looking with a pair of 315s/335s. ordered LED tail lights and I already have received a lit license plate holder. that will be about it for the back end for now.
I am delayed in fitting the seats due to amazon sending me C6/7 planted brackets, which are different than C5. C5s are, of course, back ordred. wont receive till mid-September.... going to start tackling the wiring, cooling system and front frame shortening...
Looks good!!
Very cool looking setup. No boiled brake fluid I hope. How far will the flames shoot out!?
Nomad wrote: Very cool looking setup. No boiled brake fluid I hope. How far will the flames shoot out!?
I am a little worried about the brake fluid and module temp.... probably going to throw together some sort of shielding. I know by virtue of how many requests I get on my part-out ads that the ABS module is a weak point on these already....
No matter what you do those welds will rust. Stainless Steel and Carbon do not play well together and you'll get electrolytic rust at the weld. Will it be in your lifetime? who knows. When weld supports to pipe it's always like to like first. But I'm carrying 1500# steam not exhaust gas...
In reply to Mad_Ratel: Steam's an entirely different headache, for sure.
Really excited to watch your build. I've been itching to do this myself for a while now.
Been scouring the salvage auctions for a manual C5/C6 vette, but like you'd said it's crazy how many are automatics. I'd really also like to get a fastback roof car so I could retain the removable roof.
Anyways, really dig your build, signed up so I could comment. Keep up the good work!!
Mad_Ratel wrote: No matter what you do those welds will rust. Stainless Steel and Carbon do not play well together and you'll get electrolytic rust at the weld. Will it be in your lifetime? who knows. When weld supports to pipe it's always like to like first. But I'm carrying 1500# steam not exhaust gas...
totally agree. however, least of the concerns. I did it on my e46 exhaust as well, 3 years ago, so far, so good. if I were pushing 1500lb steam, I am NOT welding that myself!!
Greaseonmyhands wrote: Really excited to watch your build. I've been itching to do this myself for a while now. Been scouring the salvage auctions for a manual C5/C6 vette, but like you'd said it's crazy how many are automatics. I'd really also like to get a fastback roof car so I could retain the removable roof. Anyways, really dig your build, signed up so I could comment. Keep up the good work!!
cool! welcome! I was shocked by the ratio of auto to manual. plus, seems like the auto cars were more prone to rear ending other vehicles! dealing with copart was a great experience, I would def use them again.
I like the idea of the removable factory roof panel, but head room is going to be a challenge even with an open top. I want to be able to build my cage basically were the shell of the car used to be, so larger than a C5 interior roll cage. so the factory top idea wont work. but, I will pput a canvas or aluminum sheet roof on it. I live in florida, shade is required for survival.
situation in passenger floorboard...
I moved all the electrical boxes that were under the hood into the passenger compartment, using the play in the existing wire loom.
Currently in the process of removing the unnecessary wires, systems I didn't retain. I already came up with a structure to hold the fuse boxes, PCM, BCM and TAC, they will mount up near the firewall, just below the windshield on the passenger side. it wont be exotic, but it will work (yes it originated from a hardware store).
pretty sure I removed all the wiring that I know I wont need. and, since the car runs, suppose I didn't remove anything I needed!
The mount is coming along. Both fuse blocks are of course front and center, then to the drivers side (cant see it in the pic) is the body control module, on the bottom is the ECU and on the passenger side is the throttle actuator control, still need to make a bracket for it, currently zip tied.
At some point I will put a cover of unknown material in front of the electrical components, probably using the htreaded inserts on the upper dash and the cross bar.
I need to also replace the hot lead, that connect to two fuse blocks, want to run that behind, rather than in front.
here is the current view of the entire cabin. the steering wheel may not be tasteful but it was a freebie/trade with pimpM3 for the AC compressor! with the quick release installed the set back of the wheel is nice, closer to the driver than it used to be.
I'm sure moving all that wiring into the car will do a lot to clean up the engine bay. I like the framework.
Do you think this could be done and still use the dash? I'd rather not go without it.
Greaseonmyhands wrote: I'm sure moving all that wiring into the car will do a lot to clean up the engine bay. I like the framework. Do you think this could be done and still use the dash? I'd rather not go without it.
I think you could pull that off. there was plenty of play in the wiring harnesses to slip them inside. the HVAC would have to be gone for sure, though...
calling this basically complete. still need to replace the hot lead from fuse block to fuse block, currently running in front, will put it behind. the loose wires on the right side will go a speaker (yes radio is a must have) and some LED interior lighting.
next phase is trying to figure out what to do with the cooling system, which drives radiator placement, which drives where the frame cut is going to be.
the real conundrum here is whether to mount the new radiator low or high.
mounting low will move it forward and require it to be at an angle, similar to stock. if its low, I will have to keep running an expansion tank, which is the most efficient solution.
mounting high (see pic), will make the radiator the high point and eliminate the need for an expansion tank. this will also maximize the amount of frame I can eliminate, but, it puts the radiator almost exactly as high as the intake. this is only an aesthetic issue as I could run the intake to the passenger side. furthermore, it gets the radiator up, reducing possible cone related injury. mounting would be easier too and it could be mounted at 90 degs to the frame.
any opinions?
stock arrangement:
with radiator and fans removed:
radiator mocked up in high position:
again, high position:
I personally like it low with the intake front and center instead of behind radiator. I'd certainly make sure it had it's own cage of sorts, but hitting cones is kind of my thing.
I agree, I like it low like stock, and add some protection. It would still let you cut off quite a bit of frame.
I don't remember where you're at in Florida, where you able to miss the worst of the storm?
Greaseonmyhands said:I don't remember where you're at in Florida, where you able to miss the worst of the storm?
He's in Jacksonville so his absence from board is a bit disconcerting.
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