My impression of Michael working on his car!
My impression of Michael working on his car!
jimgood said:twentyover said:While not a true blast can, maybe some steel or aluminum plate weldment bolted to the bellhousing would deflect (but not contain) a clutch explosion. Maybe better than nothing
I'll bet a thin steel plate under the floor would be just as safe and probably easier to install. For added protection, glue some Kevlar to it.
Been thinking about this a lot, and i like this idea. Need to figure out the best way to implement it.
i forgot just how mental this thing was until i put a slick on in place of the tire that keeps going flat.
Don't count on that slick holding air.
I submit one of my race tires after a rain storm. Note places where the white streaks of bubbles appear Yes, the middle of the sidewall leaks air
Jeebus. I never would have expected sidewall air leaks.
Going to have to remember to keep a much closer eye on the air pressures of my race tires then. The Cooper Cobra was dead flat overnight from 40 psi. The good years just there to hold the car up off the ground until I get it fixed. And, you know, look freaking awesome.
Sounds weird, but on some of my old junk with drag slicks I'd coat the inside of the tire with Palmolive dish soap and then mount and balance the tire and air it up. Kept the leakage thru the carcass to a minimum, to where usually after a day or two I'd be down 8-10lbs, after coating they were good for 3-4 weeks, without loosing air.
And I won't even mention the E36 M3 we have done to seal up the LSR tires on the 300+ mph stuff. Lol.
Again, your mileage may vary. But it worked for me on drag slicks.
In reply to GaryC83 :
Now all I'm thinking of is Burt Munro and shoe polish.
Not really applicable here, but a friend ran a F5000 car. As you know, tires on those cars are BEEFY. To move it around the paddock, load on his trailer, and move it around his home, he modified some wheels to take wire spokes, and mounted motorbike rims with wire spokes.
Made it much easier to push around, make tirns, etc
Thing looked freaky getting pushed around on a 4.10" Dunlop K81 Triangulars
Might want to think about a set of skinnies for holding this off the ground and pushing it around
Well, crap.
1/2+ inch thick in places.
Time to call the sandblaster and tear the bandaid off.
That is a bummer!!
So, mid body line down drivers and passengers quarters. Looks like a sides wipe on the drivers side, and reim hole filling gone wrong on the passengers. Regardless, its all gotta go, then i can start fresh and right.
I finished all the grinding and shaping today (minus whatever is needed after blasting), and welded up everything i blew through cutting it apart.
With as floppy as it has become, im certain that i need to mount it to the chassis with a quickness. Then i can worry about body repair instead of body collapse.
GaryC83 said:Sounds weird, but on some of my old junk with drag slicks I'd coat the inside of the tire with Palmolive dish soap and then mount and balance the tire and air it up. Kept the leakage thru the carcass to a minimum, to where usually after a day or two I'd be down 8-10lbs, after coating they were good for 3-4 weeks, without loosing air.
And I won't even mention the E36 M3 we have done to seal up the LSR tires on the 300+ mph stuff. Lol.
Again, your mileage may vary. But it worked for me on drag slicks.
+1 to this - I've done the same on Mickey Thompson ET Street which are pretty close to slicks. Definitely slowed the leakage.
Good luck with the body repair, keep it up you're flying on this thing!
In reply to GaryC83 :
I thought about making one set the storage set filling it with fix a flat. Still may do it.
In reply to HalfFast :
I'd avoid fixaflat and try dish soap first. Seriously. Save the mess.
Grab a 1" brush and slap it on the inside of the tire. No need to go stupid crazy but a healthy coat will suffice. Let it dry, mount balance and have at it. Stuff dries kinda waxy like, but works phenomenal. And no crazy mess like fixaflat.
In reply to GaryC83 :
The race tires only last a weekend the way I use them, but if they go flat when tied down in the trailer it sucks. Car gets loose and isn't secure anymore, and sometimes they unseat from the bead making it impossible to jack it up. I want a never flat version for travel and storage.
Weight rail removed, sandblaster scheduled. I need to get my ass in gear.
fuel cell mods are way more intricate than originally anticipated.
But, baffles, sump, and intank pump are in progress! Debating putting a kicker from each baffle to the outside wall for more rigidity when half a tank sloshes
chopping up vintage mopars makes me and dad's dog happy.
ready for the blaster. Still trying to get asphalt and crap from the insides of the doors and quarters, but not necessarily a priority right now.
Sweet! Did you get it to fit like that without changing the door bars? I can't remember.
In reply to jimgood :
We only had to modify the a pillars. Everything else on the tube frame itself is untouched. Obviously had to rework all the body mounts and most of the tin work which are not completed yet
Dusterbd13-michael said:
So good.
AxeHealey said:Dusterbd13-michael said:
So good.
Agreed. Maybe my favorite picture of this project to date.
So I guess the question I have for the class is what color to prime it? I plan on trying to have you guys Photoshop different colors and liveries on it once the body is mounted, so what primer color would make that easiest?
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