In reply to TVR Scott :
I'll try to remember this event next year. Hopefully I'll have something British to drive by then.
In reply to TVR Scott :
I'll try to remember this event next year. Hopefully I'll have something British to drive by then.
JoeTR6 said:In reply to TVR Scott :
I'll try to remember this event next year. Hopefully I'll have something British to drive by then.
Me too!
Scott, I've taken a lot of measurements of my Cortina. I think the 2.3l Ecoboost will fit, but modifications could be required. For example, it might be necessary to carve out a small recess at the top of the firewall where the vent fan normally resides to accommodate the direct injection pump that hangs off the back of the block. And a dry sump might be required to clear the steering rack. Not show stoppers, but I'd just as soon avoid the added complexity.
Did you consider any of the smaller displacement Ecoboost engines? For example, the 1.6l 4-cylinder or the new 1.5l 3-cylinder? I'm guessing those might be a little more compact and easier to fit. Hopefully Ford Performance will respond to my request for dimensioned pdf files.
My Cortina weighs < 2000lbs, so power/torque from the smaller Ecoboost engines would be more than adequate.
In reply to patentgeek :
Dude. Start your own build thread.
You'll get the Cortina geeks out, you'll get the EcoBoost geeks out, and you'll get all the people who don't like me and aren't reading my thread (hopefully that group isn't too huge...).
Ford Performance will probably not support any effort to use a 1.6. They're pretty much all in on the 2.3 as a swap motor, and they could decide to not support that at any time. Look at using HP Tuners software for unusual builds.
patentgeek said:Apparently the Grassroots Motorsports folks don't want me PM'ing Scott directly or adding my Cortina to my garage (paid subscription required?), so I'll continue with some engine comments/questions here.
You should be able to do those things for free, post the error you're getting in this thread:
In reply to patentgeek :
In the spirit of being collaborative and helping out a new guy, I started a build thread for you!
You will get more people chiming in and answering questions this way. The moderators will be happy to change the title of the thread for you and any of the tags I've applied.
Good luck, and I look forward to seeing some pics of your car and helping with it more!
USERNAMETAKEN said:More measurements:
The Ecoboost is starting to look like a really tight squeeze. It's tall and the pan is deeper than the TR6. Width is ok, but not great. The only saving grace might be moving back in the engine bay.
I'm looking again at the Mustang 3.7 V6. I've not found a good dimensioned drawing of one yet, but the crude ones I've found look very promising. It's wide at the top (no surprise there) but shorter in height and oil pan depth. I found an aircraft guy who weighed one dry, and his number was 205 lb.
And something about a Ford V6 in a TVR M-series...
Well, the Griffith which used the TVR body used the 289 Ford motor. How about a Coyote motor? Having driven both, I can tell you the Griffith burned my right lateral leg from exhaust heat. The stock TVR was FTD on street tires at every event. I’m not aware of a stock boosted motor from back in the day.
Welcome to the forum and thanks for contributing to my thread!
Not sure how far you've read, but the EcoBoost is very much installed, and does indeed fit fine. I'm working now to get the plumbing sorted and have a short term goal of a first start-up.
I do still think the 3.7 V6 sounds like a lot of fun to work with, and I have vague ideas of using one on some future vehicle.
In reply to TVR Scott :
I'm several months behind still, but talking about using nitrogen for back purging stainless, it's good to know that works. Not sure if it's been discussed more already, but it makes sense to me since nitrogen is the gas of choice for purging the tubes in evaporator coils during brazing in the hvac world (my work background). The amount of stuff I've learned on this forum that isn't limited to cars just keeps growing.
In reply to shagles :
Welcome!
Interesting about the HVAC coils - I didn't know that. But I've not ever done any HVAC work. Totally makes sense.
I need to get the nitrogen tank hooked back up so that I can do a bit more welding on my exhaust. I've been doing so much aluminum welding lately that steel and stainless seem a little weird.
Good Evening,
Looking for some information. I have been working on a couple of kit cars using the Ecotec engine platform. I am in the process of building a fully forged Ecotec 2.4L with VVT which should produce about 400 hp running the LNF stock turbocharger. That engine was initially being built for one of my existing cars. But a friend is selling one of his TVR 2500 (1972) with the stock British V6 (his other one is running a Ford 302). My Ecotec can match the hp of the 302 while still being a couple hundred pounds less. With the tubular chassis on the TVR it looks like a relatively easy swap (removing the British V6 for the Ecotec). Anyone out there with any experience in a similar successful swap.
THX,
Bruce
In reply to BARAIR :
Welcome! I can't tell you a single thing about how an Ecotec might fit, though it's probably similar in size and form factor to the EcoBoost. Truly. I know nothing.
The M-Series chassis does have quite a bit of room to work with, and has some advantages over other platforms. The steering rack is quite a bit forward of the engine, so clashes are unlikely there. There's lots of room inside the space-frame and it is indeed easy to modify.
Watch out for odd-sized protrusions like the alternator and the turbo/manifold. If the engine is too tall you will run into problems as well. If you are 3d literate, I have a reasonable solid-model of a TVR chassis. Engine 3d models are harder to find.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Hey TVR Scott,
Not sure you remember.. back some time we had a brief exchange on projects (I think it was related to a profile post on the Triumph Experience forum)... Anyway, I'm getting more active on my 71 Vixen engine swap (ford 302 roller).. The chassis mods are almost done (engine & diff (Jaguar) mounts..
I'm curious about your 3d solid-model of a TVR chassis.. This would be the M chassis? Correct? The fabricator doing my mods uses Solidworks for his other projects (Bentfabrications). Would your 3d model be compatible with Solidworks? Or did I misunderstand the reference to 3D?
Cheers
Joe O
In reply to Joeo :
Hey Joe, good to see you here! I remember our previous discussions.
I am working in Solidworks, and the model I have is based on my M-Series chassis. My understanding is that my chassis is very different from your Vixen's. I don't know that my model would be a lot of help to you. But I'm happy to help if they are similar.
Hey Scott..
For sure different.. As mentioned, Tim of Bent fabrications uses Solidworks for his other projects.. your version might be a good starting point to document mine... After Tim is done my chassis will be very different from the original... Are there lots of files produced with Solidworks? A lot of space needed?
Really enjoy following your progress.. your attention to detail and worked performed is amazing... Congrats on progress to date...
Thought you might like to see a photo..
Cheers
Joe O
In reply to Joeo :
Oh man, your car is PRETTY! Mine is still in the ugly phase, but I have great plans.
Thanks for the props on my work to date. Means a lot. I've been totally overwhelmed with a work project for the last two months, but it shipped out the other day. So this weekend I'm going to dive back into the TVR.
I'm happy to share my frame model with your guys, though it really does look different. Based on their website, I think they'll have no trouble putting together a 3d file. Hit me up by DM and I can send along some files.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Your most recent Reply was post # 666
In reply to AngryCorvair :
In reply to TVR Scott :
Cool.. thanks Scott!
My car is not so pretty now... in pieces.. in need of refurbishment, in need of reengineering, etc etc.. Hoping it goes together in the not so distant future!
Cheers
Joe O
Ok, back in the game here. My tungstens, gas lenses and collets were getting pretty worn out and terrible, so I stopped by the welding store this afternoon and picked up some supplies. The guy there suggested trying 2% Lanthanated tungsten, since it would work for both AC and DC tig, and the 3/32" diameter would pretty well cover the range of my welder.
Game on!
And some new collets and gas lenses. And my gloves were getting pretty beat, so why not some new ones too.
Fired up the welder using the new supplies, and overall I was very pleased. The lanthanated tungsten has a nice smooth direct arc. It seems to focus the energy better than the balled pure tungsten. Very good control of the puddle.
Here's my last coolant pipe that was tacked up yesterday and needed finishing.
A good afternoon. I need to add a port for the dash-board coolant temp sender, and then I'll switch over to stainless-mode and see if I can get the exhaust all buttoned up.
I'm getting a burning desire to lift the body off the frame. Anyone got a good reason I shouldn't?
Also, anyone have wiring info on a 3-wire Temp sensor from a TR-6? I'd like to test my old gauge and new sender.
3 wire temp sensor? That's new to me. From what I remember all TR6's used a single wire temp sender. Oil pressure switch was a different story, there were single and three wire ones of those. But they were switches, so on-off kind of thing
RoddyMac17 said:3 wire temp sensor? That's new to me. From what I remember all TR6's used a single wire temp sender. Oil pressure switch was a different story, there were single and three wire ones of those. But they were switches, so on-off kind of thing
I'll bet you I've got them backwards in my mind. I've been working on other stuff for way too long. I bought both oil and water temp sensors back in August, and have barely looked at either since.
The 3 wire oil pressure switch was used with an anti run-on system, which I would think you're not using with the engine swap. The one wire switch illuminated a low oil pressure lamp, where as the three wire did the lamp and also provided a ground for the ARO valve.
Does the TVR use the mechanical oil pressure gauge as per the TR6?
Testing the temp gauge should be relatively easy, apply 10v to one side and ground the other side. To test the sender and gauge, apply 10v to one terminal on the gauge, then run a wire from the side of the gauge to the sender, and ground the sender, then apply some heat to the non-wire end of the sender (heat gun is probably the safest)
In reply to RoddyMac17 :
AFAIK, the oil pressure gauge is from the TR6, though I'll admit I've not pulled it out of the dash yet.
My intention was to put the oil pressure sender into one of the ports on the dual oil filter assembly. This will be immediately downstream of the engine block and before the oil cooler.
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