Stampie is the R200 supplier to the stars. Check in with him.
Stampie is the R200 supplier to the stars. Check in with him.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Oh yeah, I'm also not planning on the disc brake conversion, but might do the Wilwood adjustable bias brake master cylinder set-up. Pricey, but I know my master cylinder and power servo are shot, so not a whole lot more than replacing all that. I don't think I'd miss the power brakes in a 2k lb, car really.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
My yard has a 96 and a 99 Infiniti Q45 in right now. Let me know and I could deliver it next month in person.
Stu, you also shouldn't need to modify the case of the LSD, like Good Parts calls out. That seems to be only for clearing the TR-6 body. The TVR sub-frame has lots of room.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Awesome! Do you know the gear ratios? I can look it up. I was thinking I wanted the 3.357 (stock was 3.41) but maybe the 3.538 would be better for autocross. We run long courses here though, and I'm constantly having to go to third gear in my TR3. Bottom line, beggars can't be choosers. Free shipping is a bonus!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
According to the Googles the 96 will have a 3.54 and the 99 will have the 3.69. Do you have a link to this kit ya'll are talking about? I think the 99 has 5 bolts on the axles. I'm pretty sure I've supplied Scott and dherr with 1st get Q45 diffs which have 6 bolt axles.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Hate to hijack Scott's thread like this. Goodparts (the conversion supplier) concurs with your info, so I'd be most interested in the '96 diff. I'm dealing with just a 4-speed, so 3.69 would kill my cruising rpm. His conversions just refer to the 6-bolt diffs, so that would be preferred. I know when I looked at the site before, he used to list kits for both 5- and 6-bolt. I trust the '96 is traction controlled (LSD)?
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Yes that's why I like the Q45 diffs. All first and second gen diffs had LSD.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Sign me up, Stampie! Dinner's on me when you (and Duster) come by!
Today I spent the afternoon working on the frame. My goal was to get all the suspension doublers burned in. I had 8 left on the rear lower control arm mounts. Four of them I tigged in, and got really sick of the endless repositioning and gymnastics.
So I switched to wire-feed for the last four. Blech:
Sure is fast though. Not sure if I'll save any time after I clean up all the weld boogers. But at least it's variety.
Cleaned up pretty well:
And mostly cleaned up on the left side:
Good to have that job pretty well done. I need to replace the remaining smashed and rusted frame tubes next. The add intercooler support brackets and some exhaust hangers, and by damn this frame will be ready for some paint!
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
WOW! Some real progress made. You'd better get moving, I need you to be at least two steps ahead of me so I know what to do (and what not to do)!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Your chassis already has primer, so right now you're ahead!
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
As of today, even most of a glossy black coat! Maybe finish it up tomorrow,
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
Cruelty. Rub it in, will you!
Just did a little bit of welding after spending all day battling my sick work PC.
I fillet-welded the insides of the suspension pick-up points. On the front these seams were not welded by the factory. Curiously, the back ones were. This will make the transition a little stronger and keep the joint fully water tight.
Also, after seeing the bent and beat up body mounts and frame tubes, I decided to weld in dedicated jack points. Here's the first one tacked in.
I'm thinking of gluing in some rubber sheet to make the surface non-skid. Maybe some sort of grip-tape would be appropriate? (thinking out loud here...)
I would imagine the adhesive would pull off and wouldn't last long as a jack point. What about counter boring a couple hockey pucks and bolting in?
That is not welding sir, that is art!
lnlogauge said:I would imagine the adhesive would pull off and wouldn't last long as a jack point. What about counter boring a couple hockey pucks and bolting in?
This. Threaded insert on the pad, be able to replace.
Or, make an oval slot and use the jack pucks from a c5 Corvette
What about a boundary ring around the plate so all the sliding that could happen would end at a ridge?
I want to paint all my jack points a bright color like orange so that they're easy to locate in a rush.
Apexcarver said:What about a boundary ring around the plate so all the sliding that could happen would end at a ridge?
That's one option I'm strongly considering. I've even got some 3" sch 40 pipe that would be just about perfect.
Stampie, I like the bright color idea too. That would work really well.
What's the interface? You can get all kinds of jack adapters, but virtually all jacks by default have some kind of "cup" with a perimeter ridge, don't they?
Seems like a short length of pipe centered on your plate, just deep enough to sit in that cup and stop the perimeter from digging into your plate would be safe, simple, and compatible with the broadest variety of jacks regardless of whether there's an adapter on hand.
Sort of Apexcarver's suggestion but with the jack providing the perimeter.
I ran outside and cut off a little 3/8" chunk of that 3" pipe. Here's what that would look like:
I sort of want a little more room to weld around the edge, but I think I can sneak in a nice fillet there. My next smaller piece of stock is 3" od x 1/8" wall, which is thinner than I'd like.
This pipe fits generously around my crappy old floor jack. I'm going to do a little looking and see if it looks like it'll fit other jacks too.
harbor freight low profile steel 2.5 ton jack has a 4.25 od on the pad
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Helpful. What's the ID on the recessed area?
3 5/8
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