My three year old Cadillac leans that much. I'm not saying it's perfect for autocross, but I don't think it looks too bad considering what you're working with.
My three year old Cadillac leans that much. I'm not saying it's perfect for autocross, but I don't think it looks too bad considering what you're working with.
In reply to Crackers:
it makes it more comfortable. Yeah.... thats what I'm going for.
In reply to Bobzilla:
They do, Kinda required for street use.
Power valves are also known to fail with any backfires, so I've been told. So it might not be the root cause of your problems, but there's a reasonable chance it's been damaged because of it.
So.... watching that video I need to check my carb's specs. Is it possible that I have the wrong powervalve for my engine? IE, if the carb was intened for use on a cam'd engine that pulls 12" of vacuum, my 20" may be too much?
Also... it's really really really hard to keep a light foot and not open the secondaries. I like how it sounds sucking in all that air and fuel.
If your engine pulls more vacuum, the power valve wouldn't be opening soon enough, so you should be running lean or flat-spot where it should be opening.
General rule-of-thumb is a power valve rated for half your idle vacuum (though some say half cruise vacuum).
11's in a box
I now make 11's. Pics/vid tomorrow.
11's are fun
How streetable or potentially un-streetable has this become?
With the manual trans very. Sure it clicks when turning into parking spots but the (horrible) turning radius isn't any worse. You do feel it engage more Than the Yukon lsd in the sierra but everything with this truck is more visceral so it feels right.
Plus side the wife went for a ride with me and the only thing that embarrassed her was the unwillingness to start hot. Cold it lights instantly. Hot it cranks a bit and requires judicious throttle input.
Cool to hear!
I don't know if I mentioned this here or not, my truck's "hot re-start" is always a "flood-clear." I just accept it.
If you pave it they will come......elevenses and all 
3.73 gears and an S10 NV3500 puts you just about right in second and third is a little closer to second than in the Tremec, plus the pre-98 S10s have the shifter forwards like your current transmission. And they are cheap.
I never liked the feel of the NV3500. I had two full sizes with them and hated them. Plus I'd have to go to a hydraulic clutch. I am never going back to a hydraulic after having a real one.
So, I can steer with the throttle now. What I've learned is A.) I need more power and 2.) I now have axle hop. I hear the second can be cured with more of the first.
So for E36 M3s and giggles I changed the vacuum port for the dist advance. No more low speed high load back fires. I was using the one on the metering block and switched to one on the base.
ok... colder morning. one backfire when the truck was still under 150* coolant temp, and air temp around 60. Once it was warmer, gone. ADjust the choke?
Backfire through the carb? Give it more choke.
In reply to SkinnyG:
that's what I was thinking just wanted to confirm.
TON of parts on their way this week. Bushing kit arrived friday. Ball joints, tie rods, sleeves, pitman and idler arms as a kit should be here thursday. Spindles, springs, flipkit and c-notch by monday.
Even though I have an even on the 17th, the steering is getting too sloppy for me to be comfortable to drive it 70 miles, beat on it and then drive another 70 home. The idler arm is pretty loose, inner tie rods are as well.
Pile ignore parts is still huge but the front end is entirely stripped.
On mine, I may lose the sway bar riser bracket, and mount the sway bar directly to the frame. The front junk hangs pretty low. I also think the sway bar may fit better upside down with lowering springs. Let me know what you think when you're putting it back together.
It'll be a couple weeks before I get to that point. I was thinking about the riser brackets as mine keep getting smashed on parking blocks.
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