Next steps for a 944

I occasionally see folks looking for ways to attach 944 headlight sheet metal once gutted. I've done it a few ways, but this has been solid and it's as light as I can imagine. It also creates excellent open space on the nose. Simple. [URL=http://s349.photobucket.com/user/jack127/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-02/DF1A463C-E47A-4E90-ACDF-16CE65C52D0B_zpsu5eaopng.jpg.html][/URL] And from below..... [URL=http://s349.photobucket.com/user/jack127/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-02/9279964F-4C29-449D-81B8-B0DAFFB0C65C_zpsfal7p13j.jpg.html][/URL]

It's been a while since I've had a chance to work in 36. My son James and I got in an hour or so. My oil cooler gaskets and seals arrived so we assembled that. The engine's PO used a stock NA cooler, but I use an external oil cooler which requires the 944 turbo housing. [URL=http://s349.photobucket.com/user/jack127/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-03/24749F5C-C8D3-4C79-AC54-EC8AEEC2DE53_zpszzjpne5r.jpg.html][/URL] Pretty easy swap, especially as I have the more recent 1 piece pressure relief valve. The dam is off in this picture, so it's a little hard to tell where the cooler is. It sits in the passenger side, just behind the turn signal buckets on the air dam. [URL=http://s349.photobucket.com/user/jack127/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-03/E6E75F73-7F07-47A7-B119-B7F9A56F32FB_zpswznhcion.jpg.html][/URL]

Put the alternator, ac delete brackets and belts on. Calling it a night. [URL=http://s349.photobucket.com/user/jack127/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-03/A6512521-FB4B-4062-B89B-AB3B6560B136_zpss5gfu9mu.jpg.html][/URL]

Hung the starter, found a battery with a charge, located my grounds, crossed my fingers and hit the starter button. It actually ran. It's the little things.

Do you own the oil pressure relief valve alignment tool for attaching the oil cooler console?

I do not...when I used the old two piece units, I borrowed an alignment tool. .I have never used one (on maybe 6 builds) with the one piece valve. Yes, that's a no-no. My technique is to put the 4 housing screws in finger tight, screw the pressure relief valve in and then snug the 4 housing screws. The relief valve self centers. I also do not have the factory tool for the balance shaft belt, so that shows you how I roll. At the same time, I have not had a problem with either.

In reply to CrookedRacer: I think your engine is "late"?....if so, you should have the one piece valve. I have an early engine, but converted to the turbo cooler and late valve. Much easier.

Had about an hour of shop time tonight. I connected the alternator and neatened up some wiring. I've been thinking I would remove the Tarett swaybars and go with some fully adjustable Weltmeisters that are on my parts car....but since I haven't located the necessary mounting hardware for the Weltmeister, I decided to put the Tarett back on.

Unfortunately, as I tightened up the last collar, there was a POP.

Maybe you can see the crack where the Allen screw tightens the collar. I will see if Tarett offers a replacement, and if not come up with a homespun remedy.

JB Weld!

In reply to Ed Higginbotham:

You Know that's right! Yeah. I did that. Expect it to break again though. But maybe not with a hose clamp around it!

By the way Ed, that bar is not bent from my launch at VIR. Put a straightedge on it last night. Does UTCC do a highest jump trophy?

Red letter day....we installed the strut tower brace, radiator and fan, new oil pressure sender and bled the clutch and brakes. The engine fired right up and since we live in the country, I took her up the road a mile or so. I shifted a little early but the engine pulled well. It honestly doesn't feel like its making the kind of power I had hoped for, so I am looking forward to a dyno pull. Even if we are around 140rwhp, ( and that's how it "feels" to me) I'm happy enough to have a running car. I will post a few pics tomorrow.

I broke out the lambda meter and made a few runs. With cat delete, the stock afm settings can go lean. With a few adjustments the car feels alive. I swapped my old "+8" afm on and it felt the same, so I have a good backup which is good with my history on these afm's. I am final fitting the air dam and painting, and installing brake ducts. She is getting there...

PTE rules assess1 point for air intake mods....once you ditch the stock air box, you receive the point. Making a complete cold air intake gets the same point. I will bring the air in with a sliced driver side headlight cover.

140rwhp would be right where a fresh engine should be...

In reply to docwyte:

Yep....my last fresh engine was right about there (138) with stock air cleaner, stock two piece headers, basically bone stock. I thought with air in and out, along with a carefully built engine I would be up a few ponies. When I adjusted my afm it pepped up a bit. The dyno will be interesting to see at UTCC.

Today was a button up day....small oil drip from my cooler, putting the final touches on the cold air intake, directing all the air to the radiator. And a friend came and took away our donor car to bring her back to life and race another day. A good day.

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How's it coming? I've hyped up your build... all the guys in PTE are shaking in their driving shoes!

Sorry I won't make HyperFest @ VIR... I'm in no shape to perform a swap between now and then.

Good luck!

We shall see how much fear I should induce soon! Hoping for a solid shakedown weekend at Hfest, and will also run UTCC Friday, so a little extra setup opportunity there. Going through a final checklist today of mostly small stuff, then hopping a plane tonight out of the country on business. So really want to be loaded and ready today. Small things added are a shift light, new oil cooler lines, new fuel lines and new passenger seat (my son may do some DE in this car plus I needed a little weight added)

Awesome. I'm interested in more info on your shift light and what is involved in putting in new fuel lines.