In reply to metty :
It's about 1" behind the headrest and likely to be 2-3" from the helmet. It will need to be padded.
In reply to metty :
It's about 1" behind the headrest and likely to be 2-3" from the helmet. It will need to be padded.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
I think I put the interior concept up somewhere..
your basically right. I'm going to glue some suede or canvas outdoor fabric onto the sides (Tan here) then have pads that will be upholstered in some kind of fabric that button or velcro to the face. I'm considering all sources of padding but want something with decent flame resistance. The seat shape is comfortable enough as is so the padding thickness needs are minimal. I'm not sure how flame resistant they are but just making the back/base our of wetsuit material (available at fabric stores) may be sufficient.
I'm noticing that all the sleepwear we buy for our kids nowadays comes with a tag attached claiming the fabric's fire retardant capabilities...
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:I'm noticing that all the sleepwear we buy for our kids nowadays comes with a tag attached claiming the fabric's fire retardant capabilities...
2021 challenge upholstery trend. Dora the Explorer pj print for $1 from the thrift shop. Or PJ Masks, or spongebob.
Do they still have power rangers pjs? That would be the ultimate.
I'd go Transformers.. or just a nice dinosaur print.
Or if you could find them TMNT sheets. Oh the possibilities are endless..
One headrest is sorta done.
I shortened the height by 1", and I need to tighten the bends a little because I couldn't beat on it with a metal hammer because it was late.
I'm going to re-make the skin out if thinner gauge steel seeing how stiff it is out of 18 Ga. They also are kinda heavy at like 2 lbs total. I thought about aluminum for the skin but it's about $3 more expensive and the weight wouldn't actually be that much lower by the time I make a perimeter to attach the skin. So I will probably just punch a few 1" holes in them.
+1.5 hours, + $2.35
You need to do a midevil shield crest on them.
I remade the cover out of 24ga and finished the headrests. Wow 24ga is difficult to weld. It took 1 headrest to get the hang of it. So I ended up doing some weld grinding. I don't like to but for these I made an exception because the welds.. Well they were like a thing that is not good. Now after paint they will look fine. And they will be upholstered so I probably could of left them.
+1.5 Hrs, -$1.26 for the adjustment to 24 Ga.
I'm loving this.
Are you going to put a divider between driver/passenger footwells? I'm panicky about having anything my legs could bend around in a side impact.
what a fantastic thread, thankyou for brightening up a February evening. I have loads of inspiration for my build here.
Im absolutely loving the build! How did you cut the sheets for the seat and what did you use to make the bends?
Sorry progress has been slow. Some things have come up. More on that later.
For cutting the sheets I used mostly this:
Well a 13 year old set of those.
and then just some generic Aviation snips for detail work.
Bending was done with something like this:
Unless it was to long then it was just clamped on top of a long piece of angle iron and the hammers came out.
For using the little sheet metal brake I find backing the clamp bar up with angle iron to stiffen it and make it work a lot better.
Got another video done. This one is about the rear bulkhead. I'm learning a bit more about using the editing software. Still need to get better about camera focus.
Don't know if it matters but your monologue about the NHRA cut out was right channel only. I noticed because I'm wearing headphones to listen. Loved the weld nuts part. I've been trying to think that through for my build. I'm stealing it. Just so that you know. My solution for tape measurers is to buy like 10 of them so that there's always one handy.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
No, no there were two channels, you'll hear intermittent scratching in the Left channel. 
There is something wrong with my headset mic that I need to fix. I couldn't figure out how to drop the bad channel and double the good one so I just tired to get the volume somewhat consistent and sent it.
I'll blame this one on Zippy.
I'm glad to hear people are getting something out of the videos. I'm sure I saw the weldnut thing somewhere. I try to throw in little things I do to make my own life easier. The next time I use my Grinder in the video I'm going to show how the grinder key is ziptied to the cord. Unless I already did. I'll have to check.
I actually crossed the 100 subscriber point this weekend. That's 99 more subscribers than I ever expected.
Also, I bought 3 tape measures after that event FYI.
Thanks for watching.
I was gonna ask if I heard scratching in the left channel where was that mic?
(Looks at pile of free-with-coupon HF tape measures)
People pay for tape measures?
I got out to the garage a bit today for about an hour and knocked out the fixture for the rear subframe. I'm going to use shear plates where the bushings go on this one to tie everything together. I have the template made for those plates so next time I should be able to get those going. I just threw some tubes on to make it make sense. Probably not close to the right length or spacing yet.
Please say the bacon transmission cover will be staying!
really enjoying this thread
In reply to bgkast (Forum Supporter) :
It will live on insome way. It's just duct tape now. But it probably will cover the aluminum sheet when it's done.
Cut the shear plates for the rear suspension. I was going to be tricky and make a template and use the plasma cutter to cut them. That didn't work. I mean the template worked, but for some reason my plasma cutter wasn't cutting well. So it was time to Angle Grinder. So that was an hour wasted.
Now to drill a bunch of holes
+3 Hrs, +1.7 sq-ft .125 thick steel, +$11.01
7hrs to go until the 150 hour update.
I managed to get out and finish off the shear plates. I drillled the holes then clamped all 8 together and ground them down to a consistent size.
There are 3 types of plates. Front with 1" holes, front with no holes, and the rear.
I mocked them up to make sure they fit and to show what the subframe will look like sort of.
The 1" tube will be the part under the engine. There will be 4 1" tubes running forward to the lower bungs.
The shear plates will get boxed in.
And the part where the front 1" round tubes are offset is where the belcranks will attach.
So that's another 2.5 hours but now I am at a good point to get rolling on the subframe assembly.
In other news progress has been hampered over the last week and a half as I somehow went and got COVID. I had gotten the vaccine 2 weeks ago and didn't change anything about mask use/social distancing/no dine in/avoiding groups. I'm recovering but energy is just really low. I never got a fever, kept my sense of taste/smell, but just felt normal congestion with large amounts of fatigue. I'm out of isolation this week but I've been trying to work as able on the car and cleaning our basement which is my isolation domain. Thankfully none of my family seems to of gotten it or if they did they are asymptomatic.
Anyway. Onward with Building.
Why are they called shear plates? I am familiar with a "shear pin" ( like in a brush hog mower) Are they designed to break first?
In reply to Somebeach (Forum Supporter) :
I am calling them that because most of the loading on them will be in shear (which isn't exactly true because they will react the acceleration of the car). That said they will function to take the shear loads between the upper and lower suspenion A-arms. In construction a plate at the end of a column with multiple holes in it is sometimes called a shear plate (Where I-beams bolt to).
They are not designed to break though. I hadn't thought of the connection to Shear Pins which limit torque.
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