I never did anything for my WRX. Mostly because all I do is drive it. I’ve turned over a year with it and am doing a few things in the name of making it useful and a little better.
Just washed the interior for the first time last week, it’s really pleasant driving a clean car.
This is an unmolested car. Possibly the last bugeye in the world with SUBARU still stamped on the muffler. I have all the records back to the original invoice, so i’m not looking to flat brim it out, just plan to do a couple little things that are easily reversed and require no cutting, as I value the originality of the car. The only non original bits are the wheels and the shift boot. Wheels are from 2007, and I replaced the shift boot because of cigarette burns. Still has factory cd/cassette deck.
Today’s project: make backroad/parkway driving at night safer. I’m not sure it’s just my car or all of them, but my headlights suck. I do lots of driving at night on country roads and one long stretch of parkway every Thursday coming home. Deer are everywhere around here, and I cannot see them until they’re right in front of me.
$36 and some scrap later along with what i learned in the bracket article from a couple GRm’s ago:
I installed a relay driven off the high beam circuit so I don’t have to remember to flip a switch if anyone is coming, i can just flick the high beam stalk and be back at lows with the factory fogs. Took it for a ride on some of the pitch black roads around here a few minutes ago and it was glorious, hopefully it’ll keep me, my car, and the deer safer
I like your projects.
Let me know if you need anything from the land of little rust.
I didn't realize there was an unmolested bugeye left. Glad you're keeping the mods minor and tasteful.
Jerry
UberDork
4/4/18 7:07 a.m.
If you ever decide to cut a few more of those brackets...
Not saying I have a functionally identical car sitting in the driveway or anything, but I'm very interested to see exactly where you tapped into the factory wiring. I have two holes in the bumper that I might as well fill with something shiny.
Pulled left headlight and tapped into high beam wire at the plug, had to strip a little insulation to make room. Outermost wire(yellow/red). On an h7 bulb the high beam is always the left terminal when looking at the back of the bulb. The lead i spliced in went to the relay’s signal wire, then just a matter of battery power(through a fuse of course), ground, and power out to light. Because the battery is right there it was very straightforward with very little wire used, and there’s a ground spot to the fender there too. Need to clean up my wire with a loom and get a GM relay with a bracket. I used a gm weatherpak relay plug so with the correct relay it will seal from the elements. I generally use the oval relays with the weatherpak(88-95 pickup fuel pump and c4 corvette cooling fan are a couple uses) but used a smaller square one for space savings.
Light bar was $28 with amazon prime
Its good seeing another stock bugeye! Im really digging the light bar.
That looks great!
Also, you're probably the only person in the area who actually wired the lightbar to work with the high beams rather than just driving around blinding everyone all night.
Added a little something today
Hal
UltraDork
4/8/18 8:24 p.m.
An extra touch would be to put a switch in the wire from where you tapped in to the headlight and the relay. It would mean running the wire inside and back out but would allow you to use the high beams without having the light bar on.
If you want to get real fancy, run another wire with switch from a constant 12v source to the relay signal post. That way you gives you 3 options.
1. High beams with no light bar.
2. High beams with light bar.
3. Light bar only.
NGTD
UberDork
4/9/18 10:11 a.m.
New-to-Patrick Momo WRX steering wheel on its way to OH.