Project Chimera: 1972 Chevy C10 pickup with a 4.8 LS motor

After pricing out several options, I think I may go with a first generation Camaro fuel tank. They're surprisingly inexpensive, and I like the option of putting the filler behind the license plate. Let's see if I can pick one up at Summit tomorrow...

MadScientistMatt wrote: After pricing out several options, I think I may go with a first generation Camaro fuel tank. They're surprisingly inexpensive, and I like the option of putting the filler behind the license plate. Let's see if I can pick one up at Summit tomorrow...

A lot of GM cars from that era are similar, look at http://www.gastanks.com/ for dimensional information. I didn't like the idea of the license plate fill because it was sooooo low, by the way, but it fits a lot better than the Blazer tank setup does.

MadScientistMatt wrote: Also, do you have any more info on putting the Blazer sender in the Jeep tank?

I didn't do it, but the Jeep sending unit has a tube and a sock. The rheostat part is above on a swing arm. The Blazer rheostat is in a metal box clamped on the tube. If you bought both, you could remove it from the Blazer tube and put it on the Jeep tube.

Had a bit of a change of plans - I'm going to try sealing off the in the cab tank better before resorting to an underbed tank conversion. Got some parts on order - stay tuned.

MadScientistMatt wrote: Had a bit of a change of plans - I'm going to try sealing off the in the cab tank better before resorting to an underbed tank conversion. Got some parts on order - stay tuned.

My recommendations are as follows:

There are grommets under the seat for the fuel lines; make sure they are good. Likewise, the grommet in the hole in the cab is a big source of smell. You also have a vent line running up the B pillar and back down, check it for pinholes.

Thanks! I've got the grommet for the fill neck through the side of cab on order and will check the others. I also need to improve how I sealed the wires to the in tank fuel pump.

Replaced the fill neck grommet and gas cap yesterday. I think I got the grommet on inside out, but it looks like it's still got a good seal (just looks a little blockier). The new Stant gas cap didn't want to seal at all. I ended up having to take the gasket off the old cap and double-up the gaskets to make it seal.

MadScientistMatt wrote: Replaced the fill neck grommet and gas cap yesterday. I think I got the grommet on inside out, but it looks like it's still got a good seal (just looks a little blockier). The new Stant gas cap didn't want to seal at all. I ended up having to take the gasket off the old cap and double-up the gaskets to make it seal.

I, too, had many troubles with non sealing gas caps. I never found a good solution, though. The neck of the tank is always slightly damaged, and that makes things hard.

I'm tempted to have some thicker but softer gaskets cut.

On Friday, I redid how I had run the wires through the sending unit mount. I'd tried to order a cable grommet from McMaster - no dice, it was too large to fit on the sending unit flange. So I used some bolts through ordinary grommets. Was afraid that could leak at the threads, so I put some aircraft gasket sealant on it as well. Looks like the fuel smell is banished now.

Tried to replace the passenger side door seal last night. First time I've dealt with replacing glued in door seals, unfortunately, and I realized I need something to clip it in while the sealant dries. I'll probably get a pack of binder clips - they look like they'll do the job nicely.

Could you just close the door while the sealant dries or will that not compress it enough?

EvanB wrote: Could you just close the door while the sealant dries or will that not compress it enough?

Not fast enough to prevent the weatherstrip from falling off the top of the door.

Blue Painters tape?

RossD wrote: Blue Painters tape?

That might not be a bad idea either.

Or...

http://gmcpauls.com/Pickup.htm

67-72 Push-On Door Opening Weatherstrip RATED #1 By Our Customers Over Original Style Glue On Door Seals 2660241 1967-72 Door door opening weatherstrip attaches to cab and seals door to cab, sold in pairs. A Glue Less, Push-on Alternative to factory 67-72 door seals. These push on, and will conform to the stock 45 degree mitered corner above the vent window assembly. And the more bulbous seal, seals tighter than 67-72 factory replacement seals, the exposed part of the seal on the inside the cab is much cleaner looking also. For Pickup doors only. LIFETIME WARRANTY To Original Purchaser Manufactured By Precision.

If I'd known about that before I bought the regular stuff...

I've also found out that '90s era Dodge Dakota door seals are clip in and fit directly, for the benefit of others reading this thread who want to learn about things that I should have tried but didn't.

MadScientistMatt wrote: If I'd known about that before I bought the regular stuff... I've also found out that '90s era Dodge Dakota door seals are clip in and fit directly, for the benefit of others reading this thread who want to learn about things that I should have tried but didn't.

I might be worth switching, I bought the newer stuff but obviously can't comment on well it works as compared to the original.

The painter's tape worked, but that is the last time I'm doing glue in door seals! What a mess!