Project RAMPAGE

I've finally had a chance to catch up on everything and get Roni up to the shop to start on some stuff.

My goals are:

Fix the oil leak : maybe I didn't get the valve cover gasket right or the cam end gaskets are leaking. It's much less than before but it's still leaking a bit

Battery kill switch/ negative battery terminal: it's wired now for always on so I have to disconnect the battery terminal each time I stop for awhile. While opening the hood gives me style points, it does get annoying. Maybe I'll wire up something I can kill inside the car? No research has been done yet, only brainstorming. 

Figure out the lurch to right on WOT: the shift from 1-2 results in a heavy lurch/torque steer which I'm guessing is causing the lower than expected drag times. Apparently there was some problems with loosening struts before that I'll look more into. Afaik, it's usually motor mounts that do this so they will be checked too.

Park interlock: not huge, I start it in neutral but I'd like to fix it anyway

Wiring: the wiring looks......terrifying. I still need to go thru it with a fine tooth comb and get it wrapped up in looks or something

Tailgate: latch isn't holding, kind if annoying but most older trucks have a similar issue in my experience

Parking brake : currently not hooked up

Fix broken trim : pic below not sure what it's made of yet so not sure what glue I'll use. I also want to figure out something for the lower trim pieces so they go all the way to the wheel arch

Repaint?: I admit......I wasn't sure I would like the color but it's really growing on me. My original idea for repaint ( satin black with flat black stripes and gloss black pin striping. All lettering maybe a galactic vinyl because Interstellar Sledgehammer) was cool but.....the color is brash like everything else this car is. I like it. It does need touching up someday though

It's starting right up now, it has very healthy oil pressure at start up, 60+ as seen below, 40 at highway speeds and 10-20 at hot idle(which it's idling at 500rpm ish when hot). Boost seems damn healthy at 14-15psi being the highest I've seen. First turbo motor here so my little research says it's higher than stock too). Wheel studs are holding so far, the replacements seem beefier.

I may add a strut brace to help the lurching too. I'm not sure if flex is the issue though. I have considered a but more power but as turbo noob I won't do it right away, I'm not even sure the standard easy nitrous fix is a good idea here yet. I also will one day add a/c from the parts Robert gave me but not until after it's done some racing

Also when I was replacing the HEP I went ahead and did a new cap and rotor since they looked worn. Plus they are blue which obviously adds power lol

Usually, people will splice two sets of Shelby Charger rocker skirts to make up the difference in length to the Rampage/Scamp.  Might be just as easy to see if you can find another front air dam from the same car, if you find one being parted out.  The lack of a strut brace shouldn't be an issue.

Good to see this car getting straightened out.  

Cooter said:

Usually, people will splice two sets of Shelby Charger rocker skirts to make up the difference in length to the Rampage/Scamp.  Might be just as easy to see if you can find another front air dam from the same car, if you find one being parted out.  The lack of a strut brace shouldn't be an issue.

Good to see this car getting straightened out.  

I don't know if the strut brace would help either but it might be a good thing to try.

I was thinking something a bit..... different for the side rails. I gave an idea but I'm not sure I can make it happen

Check the the spot welds along the frame rails where the strut towers come down and connect.  Some of the L-bodies had really terrible welds here and that will cause issues with the strut towers.

The front suspension K-member and control setup are pretty crappy, especially the way they were welded together.   I suspect you have bushing issues (leaking power steering/engine oil ruins the bushings) or the steering rack bolts have come loose and wobbled out the holes on the K-member.  Strut mounts wear out as well, along with ball joints and tie-rod ends.  Worth looking at all in either case.

Polyurethane motor mounts fix the mounts, permanently.  JohnnyBQuick here runs PolyBushings.com and can point you in the proper direction.  One note: the early turbo cars used the same mounts, but they added a 1/4” spacer under the passenger mount, if it’s missing on yours, that could explain some of the issues.  Johnny’s moints don’t use them.

i wouldn’t suggest poly bushings for the control arms, the rear control arm pickup is essentially a spherical joint made of rubber and using polyurethane causes the arm to bind and you get inconsistent handling.

BTW, these cars are notorious for torque steer, more so the manual cars, but you learn to tighten up on the wheel during shifts to compensate.

The strut tower bar might help, if it’s properly designed, but most aren’t.  I’d spend the time and energy on getting the suspension checked out and fixed before doing that.

My dad’s Daytona had a K-member mounting frame nut come loose inside the frame.  That wasn’t fun to fix.

the side skirts are usually grafted (even the factory Rampage ones are two pieces).  I suggested running a side exit with dual square tips, like Shelby’s own personal Shelby Charger Prototype.

Stefan said:

Check the the spot welds along the frame rails where the strut towers come down and connect.  Some of the L-bodies had really terrible welds here and that will cause issues with the strut towers.

The front suspension K-member and control setup are pretty crappy, especially the way they were welded together.   I suspect you have bushing issues (leaking power steering/engine oil ruins the bushings) or the steering rack bolts have come loose and wobbled out the holes on the K-member.  Strut mounts wear out as well, along with ball joints and tie-rod ends.  Worth looking at all in either case.

Polyurethane motor mounts fix the mounts, permanently.  JohnnyBQuick here runs PolyBushings.com and can point you in the proper direction.  One note: the early turbo cars used the same mounts, but they added a 1/4” spacer under the passenger mount, if it’s missing on yours, that could explain some of the issues.  Johnny’s moints don’t use them.

i wouldn’t suggest poly bushings for the control arms, the rear control arm pickup is essentially a spherical joint made of rubber and using polyurethane causes the arm to bind and you get inconsistent handling.

BTW, these cars are notorious for torque steer, more so the manual cars, but you learn to tighten up on the wheel during shifts to compensate.

The strut tower bar might help, if it’s properly designed, but most aren’t.  I’d spend the time and energy on getting the suspension checked out and fixed before doing that.

My dad’s Daytona had a K-member mounting frame nut come loose inside the frame.  That wasn’t fun to fix.

the side skirts are usually grafted (even the factory Rampage ones are two pieces).  I suggested running a side exit with dual square tips, like Shelby’s own personal Shelby Charger Prototype.

Thanks for the info!

Drove it into town to get it licenced and realized I don't have a front licence plate holder, so it's bodged on for now.

Add "licence plate holder" to the list of things needing done

Antihero said:

Drove it into town to get it licenced and realized I don't have a front licence plate holder, so it's bodged on for now.

 

Add "licence plate holder" to the list of things needing done

Please don't drill into the bumper cover.

Mount it to the underside of the large opening with a removable solution.

Like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clearance-Sto-N-Sho-109-Quick-Release-Front-License-Plate-Bracket/333087770123?epid=21029688205&hash=item4d8d94060b%3Ag%3Af%7EIAAOSwaEZccB-r&LH_ItemCondition=4

Here's the Shelby Charger they tweaked for Caroll with the side exit exhaust and they added power windows.

Here's one of the Direct Connection Rampage's which became the "California" Edition Rampage.  No power or handling updates, just graphics, and body kit essentially.

Maybe this should go in tech tips...

Don't use electrical tape to wrap the wires.

Use hockey tape.  Cheap, protective, looks like factory and leaves no sticky residue.

In reply to Stefan :

I wasn't planning on drilling into it, it just seems.....wrong to do that. The one you posted seems like a good solution, definitely better than my original idea

Stefan said:

Here's the Shelby Charger they tweaked for Caroll with the side exit exhaust and they added power windows.

 

That does look cool!

wvumtnbkr said:

Maybe this should go in tech tips...

 

Don't use electrical tape to wrap the wires.

 

Use hockey tape.  Cheap, protective, looks like factory and leaves no sticky residue.

It is a build so I threw it in this forum. Would tech tips have been better?

Didn't consider the hockey tape option, how does it hold up to heat?

Probably 20 years ago a lot of FWD guys would take Neon strut bars and re-drill one hole and would run them.  Not sure how much it really helped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-1998-Dodge-Neon-Front-Upper-Strut-Bar-Polish-Aluminum/161276212752?fits=Model%3ANeon%7CMake%3ADodge&hash=item258ccfb610:g:QQ8AAOSwpdpVW4H-

Antihero said:

Stefan said:

Here's the Shelby Charger they tweaked for Caroll with the side exit exhaust and they added power windows.

 

That does look cool!

BTW, the passenger side tips were dummies due to the fuel pump/filter location and because it wasn’t really needed.

find a Garrett turbo from an 89 intercooled car to get the larger exhaust flange and go a 2.5” or larger exhaust and enjoy a deeper tone and more power at the same or lower boost levels.  That Mitsu is great for quick spoiling but runs out of steam quickly and generates a ton of hot air, but not too much power.

Antihero said:

wvumtnbkr said:

Maybe this should go in tech tips...

 

Don't use electrical tape to wrap the wires.

 

Use hockey tape.  Cheap, protective, looks like factory and leaves no sticky residue.

It is a build so I threw it in this forum. Would tech tips have been better?

 

Didn't consider the hockey tape option, how does it hold up to heat?

I meant my post could go in tech tips

The hockey tape held up to an engine fire....

chief8one said:

Probably 20 years ago a lot of FWD guys would take Neon strut bars and re-drill one hole and would run them.  Not sure how much it really helped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-1998-Dodge-Neon-Front-Upper-Strut-Bar-Polish-Aluminum/161276212752?fits=Model%3ANeon%7CMake%3ADodge&hash=item258ccfb610:g:QQ8AAOSwpdpVW4H-

 

 

 

Nissan 240SX bars work on the larger cars with the same trick.

the bolt on joints make them less effective, so I’d probably build a bar that bolts directly to the towers with at least two points of contact.

Stefan said:

Antihero said:

Stefan said:

Here's the Shelby Charger they tweaked for Caroll with the side exit exhaust and they added power windows.

 

That does look cool!

BTW, the passenger side tips were dummies due to the fuel pump/filter location and because it wasn’t really needed.

find a Garrett turbo from an 89 intercooled car to get the larger exhaust flange and go a 2.5” or larger exhaust and enjoy a deeper tone and more power at the same or lower boost levels.  That Mitsu is great for quick spoiling but runs out of steam quickly and generates a ton of hot air, but not too much power.

More power sounds good to me