Are you worried about matching the angles of the driveshaft ujoints? like making sure that the input flange on the diff is parallel (in two directions) to the output shaft?
I would assume dropping the tail of the trans also requires bumping the nose of the diff up just a bit (maybe you did both).
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Worried? No.
Setting SRA u-joint working angles is somewhere between textbook and voodoo. The left/right threaded inserts of the third link will allow for simple pinion angle adjustment when we get to that point.
TVR Scott said:
Any chance you'd be willing to detail how you do your tube measuring and angle-finding?
My methods are based on several years of experience making mistakes.
The quick and dirty is measure from the center of one tube to the other for a rough cut length, add a little extra depending on your own history of mistakes and the severity of the angles.
I use a varied combination of tools to acquire the angles involved. Generally these three get the job done 
Then holesaw notcher, grinders, and sanders to achieve final fit.
5 months till Challenge. This is not a realization I relish in; must regain focus.
I notched a couple tubes and added triangulation to the center spine
The rear diagonal also puts more metal between the driveshaft and the seat.
The final bit of d/s containment is this horizontal which, in the case of front u-joint failure, will limit the height of the arc any remains may try to swing thru.
Radiator 50% mounted
Fuel tank mounted as well
I don't have a receipt for this ratchet strap, and it is likely 18-20yrs old.... FMV?
Question: Is the 874 pounds roller weight with the engine and trans, or without? I'm just curious and sizing up the competition.........
Sadly, 874lbs was without. 347lbs of chassis + axle/suspension/brakes designed for a 4500lb car + wheels/tires = 874
The engine and trans are not lightweight units either 
gumby said:Fuel tank mounted as well
I don't have a receipt for this ratchet strap, and it is likely 18-20yrs old.... FMV?
Well it is a Ford so following the Pinto design is keeping it in the family.
In reply to Stampie :
There was also a recall on this era of P71 cars to install guards on portions of the rear axle for the same reason. Consistency is good?
___________________________
Working with rectangle tube is a love/hate deal for me. Kudos to those who do it well, and efficiently.
This is radiator mounting v.2 and this is the only thing I did in the shop today.
Just asking, given its proximity to the frame rale will the radiator cap be removable?
Nope. With the rad laying down, there wasn't much consideration for using that cap; just a remnant of its former life as a janky eBay Honda radiator.
And here I was, thinking that my radiator was at an extreme angle.
Lower seat tube
I'm not 100% ready to mount the seat yet, so I jumped to another task. All of the coil over springs scrounged from our parts stashes are on the short side of where they need to be for these shocks/locations. Rather than source taller coils, and since these are at least reasonable rates to start out, I worked up some spring spacers.
"Time to make the doughnuts."
Then I did a thing with the lathe! Facing a piece of tube is a fairly simple operation, but this is the first time I have done it in my own shop
Taa-daaa, ready to slide over the shock body and raise the coil 1" or flipped over for 1¾" rise.
Nice! Those are somewhathard to find and expensive. Great job!
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
It's almost like coil over springs are available in every possible size, and people are just expected buy the correct springs for their application...ppssshhh!
solid metal > spring. I thought we all knew that already.
I like that solution, and the adjustability you built into it.
I still can't believe how much I use my lathe now that I have it. Before I used it I thought.. oh a lathe would be mildly useful. Now I seem to use it for every part I build.
Seconding everything above, but also those welds are sexy
In reply to nocones :
I've been thinking about getting a small lathe - what type and size do you have and what do you like/dislike about it?
Grizzly 7" x 12" A friend of mine started out with that, back when it was $595. Times have changed since then! Too small / weak, but being low income, he made do with it.
Replaced it with:
Grizzly 9" x 19", and was happy enough with it that after his garage burned down, he replaced it with the same one.
The firs one was more toy, but he did do a lot of projects with it. Just takes more patience. the second would be my minimum suggestion.
BTW, Grizzly is more wood working oriented, but imports nice metal tools as well. Less expensive than Jet, but better than bottom of the rung china sourced. (Although from china, just not the bottom)
In reply to 03Panther :
Thanks, I think a Grizzly 9x19 would probably do for what I want. Possibly slightly bigger might be better but probably more expensive.
In reply to Racingsnake :
I've had a Grizzly 10x22 for about 10 years and have run the hell out of it. It's a great machine.
Mine is a 1930s Atlas 9*36. I got it cheap and had to buy a few pieces to get it all working (which are still available amazingly). It can hold huge parts but isn't the world's most rigid machine and I don't plan to use it for threading as the lead screw seems to not be working great. For normal machining of round parts it's great. It just requires slow well lubricated work or you get chatter.
Ideally a fully gear driven machine would be better as the multibelt drive has been problematic for some people (I have had no issues).
It's nice to have the large capacity to be able to do bigger parts even if you have to be slow/careful.
If you can find a cheap functional lathe I'd recommend getting it. Tooling will transfer to a larger machine and you will be able to gauge YOUR use and know more about what to look at to meet your needs.
nocones said:Mine is a 1930s Atlas 9*36.
9" Southbend here. 3.5' bed. I haven't dug deep into determining its age, but I'm sure that rabbit hole is not far off. Tooling replacement is going to become important sooner or later. Also, finding a three jaw chuck.
The wide flat belt will slip on the step pulley if I overload the machine which is kinda nice for a hack like myself to prevent tool and part destruction.
In reply to Racingsnake :
The nice thing about buying a used lathe is that you often get a lot of tooling with it. Of course, it will never be the tooling you need, but it will look impressive.
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