I was thinking because I saw a video of the Merc V12 and noticed it was dropped for the larger V8.
Which is sad because a mid-90's Merc V12 may be my unicorn of destruction.
You could do a swap and tune the V12 to Pagani spec...Just saying.
I was thinking because I saw a video of the Merc V12 and noticed it was dropped for the larger V8.
Which is sad because a mid-90's Merc V12 may be my unicorn of destruction.
You could do a swap and tune the V12 to Pagani spec...Just saying.
Ultimate stupidity would be to find the newer 6.3 which was above 700hp at full tune, pull the AWD replace the sunroof with a carbon panel and build an R63 AMG super lightweight. That is literally what I was thinking about two minutes before this all started. I spend a lot of time daydreaming this stuff while driving, but come on, this was unnecessary.
The highs and lows of high end German cars are so high and so low.
mazdeuce wrote: And I'm going to throw up. It's hard to tell but that's coolant in the oil.Signs point to intake manifold gasket maybe. No overheating, no smoke. Sudden coolant loss. CEL. Coolant in oil. I need to calm down. I'll call the dealership tomorrow.
damn........bad luck...
I have had the intake manifold out of out R three times. now I know its a different motor but I would have to think the manifold is similar. They look similar at least from the outside. The job is not hard, but the first time it took me all day to get it out, fixed and then back in. I would call it more fiddly than hard.
Now I did screw up putting the gaskets in the first time, hence number 2, and then something else broke that MB decided to make out of plastic so I had to put in a new one.
OK, so coolant in the oil, but not in any cylinder (no smoke) but ran like it was missing on several cylinders. Could it have been running that badly just because the crank case was being pressurized? It didn't get hot. The gauge stayed cool and the engine neigther felt or smelled hotter than normal. I'm concerned that if I pulled the intake myself I don't have the diagnostic skill set to figure out what happened or what damage I'm potentially looking at. If it were the truck I'd change the gasket and the oil and see how it goes but I'm not sure that's the proper course of action.
Sounds like it has blown the HG between some cylinders. Can you tell which cylinders are not running well? Are there plugs that look steam cleaned or otherwise really dirty?
I've seen some engines do that and not smoke, especially if there is another leak that is allowing the pressurized coolant into the oil.
Is there a separate transmission or engine oil cooler, or is it mounted in the radiator? That could leak and cause oil/water mixing, though it wouldn't explain the rough running, unless enough water ended up in the crankcase to go through the PCV system.
What code are you getting? That might help provide a direction to go in.
There are actually coolers upon coolers for every available fluid, including one where the coolant and oil swish by each other in an attempt to warm and cool things to perfection. I hadn't even thought of that but all things considered that might be one of the better failure modes available. Assuming it didn't take the rotating assembly with it of course.
I'll pull codes some time tomorrow. There is dinner to cook and I'm emotionally exhausted.
P2237 - O2 sensor failure.
P0300 - Cylinder misfire, random cylinders.
P0307 - Cylinder 7 misfire.
P0308 - Cylinder 8 misfire.
That makes it sound more like intake manifold gasket failure, yes?
Also a bit of a dance to convince it to stay in neutral. I'm trying to learn the ins and outs of that so I don't have to admit that I don't know how to put it in neutral without starting it. Modern cars are weird.
That is what mine was doing after I borked up the intake manifold gasket.
As I sit here waiting for the tow truck it occurs to me that there are a lot of firsts going on.
This is my first tow. I've never had a vehichicle that couldn't make it to where it could be fixed.
My first significant mechanical engine failure. I'm still hoping it ends up being minor, but we'll see.
My first Mercedes. 
Safely towed to the dealer. Talked Mercedes, the pros and cons of Crown Vics vs. Town Cars. Muscle cars and street racing in Chicago in the 80's with the driver. He even knew what the R63 was and asked me if it was real or just badges. Cool dude.
Service advisor was a nice guy too. There is actually another R63 in town that comes in for yearly servicing. He has a good relationship with the owner and she let him drive it for a couple of days because he is kind of geeked about them. He thought it was very cool to see another one.
I have a GLA250 loaner car with 290 miles from new. Full rental car review incoming. It's a pretty solid little hatch. I asked if they had the AMG version to loan me instead. They did not.
And now we wait.........
In reply to mazdeuce:
i can't wait to hear about the MB Focus
Sorry, but I'm kind of partial to my Focus.
It would be really interesting to compare the AMG to the Focus actually. They compare well on paper but clearly have a different audience in mind. And almost $15k in price. 
mazdeuce wrote: As I sit here waiting for the tow truck it occurs to me that there are a lot of firsts going on. This is my first tow. I've never had a vehicle that couldn't make it to where it could be fixed. My first significant mechanical engine failure. I'm still hoping it ends up being minor, but we'll see. My first Mercedes.
The others are related to this part.
One of my coworkers has the AMG GLA. I need to take a ride. I bet he will trade for a drive in the Z06.
In reply to Harvey:
The painfully obvious link between a nine year old AMG minivan and a tow truck ride is not lost on me.
Fingers crossed it's just the intake manifold gaskets, but the loaner car is actually pretty cool.
Ian F wrote:chandlerGTi wrote: I had to replace brakes twice on my E55 and not only were the brakes huge; they were expensive! I believe the rotors and pads front and rear ran me $1100 for AMG parts. When I sold it I bought another Rabbit...Looking at the price spread on RockAuto, they haven't gotten much (if any) cheaper. Makes me feel a bit better about the rotors I just bought for my mtn bikes, although the R63 rotors probably have a better $/lb ratio. It would be funny to stand one of those rotors next to the tires for my Mini - which has front rotors literally less than half the diameter. ...hell... I just realized my mtn bike has larger diameter front rotors than the Mini...
I got my crossed drilled and vented 15" s600 rotors off Rock Auto for $12 and change a piece. They were on closeout and shipping and all was under $50. We'll see how they hold up, but they look to be decent quality.
Cotton wrote:Ian F wrote:I got my crossed drilled and vented 15" s600 rotors off Rock Auto for $12 and change a piece. They were on closeout and shipping and all was under $50. We'll see how they hold up, but they look to be decent quality.chandlerGTi wrote: I had to replace brakes twice on my E55 and not only were the brakes huge; they were expensive! I believe the rotors and pads front and rear ran me $1100 for AMG parts. When I sold it I bought another Rabbit...Looking at the price spread on RockAuto, they haven't gotten much (if any) cheaper. Makes me feel a bit better about the rotors I just bought for my mtn bikes, although the R63 rotors probably have a better $/lb ratio. It would be funny to stand one of those rotors next to the tires for my Mini - which has front rotors literally less than half the diameter. ...hell... I just realized my mtn bike has larger diameter front rotors than the Mini...
There was no Rock Auto back then!
Javelin wrote: Fingers crossed it's just the intake manifold gaskets, but the loaner car is actually pretty cool.
The customer experience has been kind of amazing. I bought a second hand Mercedes from a Dodge dealer and somehow I qualify for roadside service from MB USA and a loaner from the dealer? I've been a little apprehensive about asking why they're giving me this so far but I need to get to the bottom of it when it's all said and done. Do they treat all MB owers this way? Just AMG people? Cars less than 10 years old? How does this work?
In reply to Mad_Ratel:
I had almost convinced myself to push it into the Grosh and take it apart myself but Mrs. Deuce talked me out of it.
Worst case scenario is the whole engine is dead. Best is intake gaskets and a cleanup of the oil coolant/mixture.
If I did it myself, even if I can correctly diagnose it as just the gaskets, can I convince myself that I can clean things up enough not to eat the bottom end? If this was the truck that's what I would have done because 5.3's just don't cost THAT much, but 63's are expensive by nearly an order of magnitude. So I'm leaning on the professionals to see if they can maybe actually save me money by doing it properly. Hopefully.
Cotton wrote:Ian F wrote:I got my crossed drilled and vented 15" s600 rotors off Rock Auto for $12 and change a piece. They were on closeout and shipping and all was under $50. We'll see how they hold up, but they look to be decent quality.chandlerGTi wrote: I had to replace brakes twice on my E55 and not only were the brakes huge; they were expensive! I believe the rotors and pads front and rear ran me $1100 for AMG parts. When I sold it I bought another Rabbit...Looking at the price spread on RockAuto, they haven't gotten much (if any) cheaper. Makes me feel a bit better about the rotors I just bought for my mtn bikes, although the R63 rotors probably have a better $/lb ratio. It would be funny to stand one of those rotors next to the tires for my Mini - which has front rotors literally less than half the diameter. ...hell... I just realized my mtn bike has larger diameter front rotors than the Mini...
Ask JG about how well the crossdrilled rotors worked on the Project Mustang.
There's a reason they were on closeout.
You'll need to log in to post.
