Rad Rally (Dodge) Raider (akaMonteroakaPajero) Build

engiekev said:

For flex fuel lines on Mitsubishis I've had good luck with the hard line AN adapters and then making a short section "whip" of AN line. If you want to get really fancy get some new stainless hard line and bend it to match the factory line and replace all your line! 

Otherwise you're stuck with the factory stuff.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165006erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAi4fwBRBxEiwAEO8_Hl924eZd73tBGnWUUFPlncs6zdva8VP7Gaz1ivHP2vgWkt8-Sx6rWBoCxIwQAvD_BwE

yeah that direction I'll probably go although I may check a local shop first to see how much they charge to make some. On this vehicle to hard lines are in mint condition, no rust anywhere so I don't foresee having to replace any of them thankfully!

With all my shopping done, the wife busy inside cooking stuff, and the kids playing with their friends - and it in the mid-50s again, got a few more things done.

Cleaned off the fuel tank and took a better look at things. Aside from the ridiculously-complex emissions/overflow system this thing has, it's in decent shape

Pump has clearly been replaced, will test it myself and clean all this stuff up

Inside looks pretty good. Tank was about half full sitting for a couple years, and the bottom half is very clean. The upper half has a very light coating of some rusty-type stuff, but it basically rubs off at the touch. So figure I'll rinse it all out, but happy to see I don't need to do any real inside work on the tank.

Took a few moments to use some JB Plastic Weld on the broken headlight bezels, just because I was tired of being under the car at that point.

The did the inner driver's side rear frame rails, which meant taking the fuel/brake line brackets etc etc. And also put the radius arm/trailing arm back on.

And spent some time cleaning up stuff and putting tools away, since I was getting to a point where I couldn't find stuff.

That's it for now, went and took the rally car for a drive (almost got hit head-on by some idiot who ran a red light, so that was fun locking up all four brakes on race pads......)

Hope you all have a very merry Christmas, and thanks for following along!

In reply to irish44j :

In regards to your fuel tank- go to a dollar store and buy a container of their off-brand oxi-clean (the powdered stuff). Plug all the holes in your gas tank, and fill it up with the recommended full-strength mixture (mine was one scoop per gallon of water, IIRC). Slosh it around, and let it sit for 24 hours. Drain, rinse, and repeat as necessary. 

I cleaned out a ‘70 CB750 tank that had been sitting for 28 years full of fuel using this method; it only took six cycles of the above described process.

I may just get a couple jugs of white vinegar, which is cheap at the supermarket,  but I like the Oxy-clean idea. 

irish44j said:

I may just get a couple jugs of white vinegar, which is cheap at the supermarket,  but I like the Oxy-clean idea. 

This is the bottom of the tank after I cleaned it out- some discoloration, but clean otherwise.

Other things to do tonight, but got off work a bit early so took all the emissions crap off the fuel tank, cleaned and wire-wheeled the whole thing, and painted it. 

Also after soaking them overnight in PB blaster, got the two flex hoses coming off the fuel filter off. I'll get some new ones made, as well as the feed hose coming from the tank. 

Got the tank vent/overflow stuff back together. I could probably eliminate it pretty easily, but I suppose there's no real reason to and it's much simpler than it looks, so might as well keep it

Alan sent me a used Gen 1 rear door handle, since the one he sent before wa a Gen 2. In good shape with a bit of surface rust, so painted it up and installed. Now I can open the back door from the outside, which is highly convenient...

And kept going on underbody painting, doing most of the driver's side of the rear, inside the frame rails. Getting there. 

Had a couple hours this evening so figured I'd do a couple quick projects. First, a Chinese washer reservoir/pump showed up today. It was supposed to be a direct-fit, but I had to do some minor modifications of the stock bracket in the engine bay to make it actually fit. It came with its own plastic bracket similar to the OEM one but about 5mm wider, so basically I just bent the OEM bracket "ears" outward so they would slide into the new reservoir. Nothing too exciting for a vehicle that won't need to wash its windshield for quite a while, but I tend to jump around to different areas of the build to keep myself from getting bored with just doing one thing for too long...

Yeah, all over the place....jumped to the rear wheel and disassembled the drum brakes and cleaned things up. Everything looks decent, though the shoes are pretty worn and the gunk build-up makes me think the piston has a small leak. In any case, I already have new shoes, pistons, and hardware on the way so that'll all be new anyhow. I don't love drum brakes, but they're going to stay on this truck for the foreseeable future so I want them to work as well as possible. 

Then jumped back to the front and removed all the stuff on the passenger's side of the engine bay other than wiring and hard lines. Why, you might ask, don't I pull the wiring harness at this point? Well, mostly because I don't yet know what engine I'm putting in here. If a cheap 6G72 pops up, I might just grab that and it'll be pretty much plug and play. If I get a 6G74 or something else, I'll deal with the wiring then.  So hung the wires up out of the way, cleaned up everything, and did some painting. I really don't love painting, even though it looks like I do lol....that's why I break it up into small sections to do separately, like "upper passenger engine bay" or "lower passenger engine bay" and stuff. 

So, that's it for now. It's gonna be a rainy day tomorrow but not too cold, so figure I'll have some garage time in the morning while the wife and kids are out doing stuff. 

Oh, also found a place to get the rear engine/transmission mount. As noted somewhere early in this thread the one on the car was oil-soaked and basically mush. You can get the OEM ones for like $80 from some of the overseas Mitsubishi parts places, but look.....I don't want to pay $80 for a freaking engine mount for an old Raider. I didn't even pay that much for the ones on my Porsche. So after some digging around, managed to find some aftermarket ones on Amazon UK, listed for the Hyundai Galloper, for about $13. The part number cross-references with my OEM mount, so we'll see if it actually is correct. 

This thread is starting to make me wonder how much nicer my cars would be if there was a season where I couldn't go outside.

Vigo said:

This thread is starting to make me wonder how much nicer my cars would be if there was a season where I couldn't go outside.

Yeah, I guess come to think of it most of my biggest car projects have been mostly over the winter - well, at least that's when I tend to start them out of sheer boredom of not being able to do as much outdoor stuff (that, and my winter part-time job at a ski shop pays for a lot of the car stuff, so that's when I have the most "play money" for things). 

More like "how much nicer your cars would be" if you lived in the ultra-boring suburbs and were in your 40s with kids, meaning it's not easy to just go out and blow your money and time at bars and clubs with your friends like you did 20 years ago. So you sit around your garage on a Saturday night painting the frame of a truck.  Oh wait, I'm talking about me again....:)

with a 70 degree day here (what's up with this weather??) busted out of the office at noon to get some mid-winter warm work done. Basically I finished cleaning and painting the rest of the frame.  The suckiest part was that the central crossmember isn't removable, and somehow it was the only super-greasy/gunky thing on the car. Not that it's a big deal, but i really like to start with everything clean so i'm not gettig grease in my hair or whatever, every time I'm under the car lol. 

So what to do....don't feel like moving 2 cars to pull it in the driveway and use a hose. So got out the Dawn, some brushes, and a spray bottle and started scrubbing.

So yeah, pretty much all done (except the right rear hub, which I'll do when i do the brakes)

This is what I pretty much looked like after all the cleaning and painting on my back under the truck (yeah, sorry for the sloppy screen capture lol)

Took apart the fuel filler and vent stuff, cleaned and painted and loosely reassembled

installed rear shocks

So when i first took off the wheels I sheared two studs and one was cross-threaded. I decided to just replace all of them for peace of mind. Rears were cake since i had it all apart anyhow...

Fronts I had already assembled the hubs and everything, and you can't get the studs out without separating the rotor from the hub (that's annoying). So, disassembled it all again, put new studs in, and reassembled. i need to buy stock in Nitrile Gloves, btw.....man, I go through a ton of them with all this grease and paint and such...

Got in all my refurb parts for the rear brakes and got to taking them apart. Really not bad - I know they were working before and the shoes really don't have much wear. Some evidence of leaking from the drum pistons. In any case, I decided to replace all of it since drum stuff is cheap. I kept the old drums to use after cleaning the surface up with a scotchbrite. Drums are pretty cheap but shipping sucks, we'll see how these are for the time being. 

Anyhow, it's been about 10 years since I last messed with drum brakes at this point so had to refresh myself on the best techniques to get everything set up and all the springs in place. After I did the first one the second one was a piece of cake. It's interesting that the drum setup on this has a single rear brake line going to the LR cylinder, and then a line from the LR cylinder to the RR cyliner, and a single bleeder on the RR. Is this a typical setup for drum brakes? Seems kind of odd. 

With new studs all around, adjusted ok.

Even got new lugnuts. The truck came with about three varieties using two different lug sizes lol.

And replaced the single rear flex hose for the brakes. That was easy...

Also took some time to drag the transmission out and scrub it and clean it up, as well as draining the trans and the transfer case, as my next project will be doing a mild refresh (new seals, new filter, etc). I'm still holding out hope of finding a 5-speed at some point, but as those are fairly rare (and rarer still for the V6), it's not a prioirty at this point. 

I have nothing to add but simple encouragement! Rock on.

So i haven't yet taken apart one of my auto front hubs to see whether this is really feasible or not but IFFFFF it worked as instantaneously as a typical sprag/one-way/overrunning clutch... then theorectically I can just LEAD LOCKER my front diff and it wouldn't even suck. 

I know im gonna find out im wrong but.. i dont wanna be.

Vigo said:

So i haven't yet taken apart one of my auto front hubs to see whether this is really feasible or not but IFFFFF it worked as instantaneously as a typical sprag/one-way/overrunning clutch... then theorectically I can just LEAD LOCKER my front diff and it wouldn't even suck. 

I know im gonna find out im wrong but.. i dont wanna be.

 

I honestly have no idea, so if it does work out, be sure to let me know. Side note: Aisin manual hubs are available on RockAuto and you can use the discount code on them, so they're pretty cheap.  

So those of you who followed my prior builds know I always end up with a 2nd cheap vehicle bought specifically to "fill in the gaps" of parts I need/want for the original build. The 2nd vehicle always has to be dirt cheap and in a condition few people would want. For the rally car I had a 2nd e30 (and an e32 later) that donated their drivetrains. For the Porsche I bought a 2nd one for the drivetrain and interior). So I've been browsing around for other Raiders/Monteros to fill in my drive train needs.

So throughout this build I've said I'd basically go with whatever V6 "fell into my lap" more or less....whether it be an original 3.0 12v or something more adver\nturous like a later 24v, 3.5, etc. Power isn't really a concern at this point - The first goal is to complete everything else and get it driving. I can always put in a bigger motor later (as i've done in other cars). 

Then last week a really, really crappy Raider popped up on FB Marketplace. The thing looked like a piece of junk with some strange-looking damage, a homebrew body lift, rust, and claim from the seller that "he drove it 2 months ago but now it won't start."

Took a while to get a hold of the guy to get more details. And he had no idea how the rear hatch damage happened, as he also had bought it as a project car but just had a 2nd kid and had to unload it for lack of time and money.  He originally had listed it for $1200 or so, then dropped to $870. I called and told him I'd have to come 500 miles to get it, and that I'd give him $650 for it. He thought about it for a second and came back with "since you're coming so far, you can have it for $500." Well, that pretty much sealed the deal.

Except, with my work schedule and impending heavy weather in the region, my only time to get it was Friday. And it was in Asheville NC, which is 500 miles away. Oh well, let's do this. Off at 6am, first truck stop about 200 miles later...

Drive was uneventful, but almost 8 hours long due to some traffic. Eventually ended up driving up a dirt dead-end road past a scrapyard. Seemed a little sketchy but whatever....

The truck looked as advertised (though he had switched back the stock steel wheels and kept the giant 33's as the ad noted, which was fine with me). Pretty lousy overall condition, and the p/o had a thing with spraying bedliner on interior items, but it was overall complete so with a bit of help, we rolled it up onto the trailer and i got back on the road (didn't even need to use my newly-installed trailer winch). I removed the mangled rear door and he said he'd dispose of it for me, so I didn't have to haul unnecessary weight all the way home....

8 more hours on the road, lots of caffeine, and I finally pulled up at my house at midnight. 1000 miles, 18 hours, about 250 songs on Spotify, and about 80 gallons of gas.......I slept like a baby last night. 

My neighbors in this pretty nice neighborhood tolerate my car stuff, but I try to keep from being too ghetto, so threw a cover over it to make it look less crappy on the street until today when I could unload it into my backyard. 

Had things to do today so quickly moved the trailer into its parking spot this morning and left the truck on it, and then unloaded it this evening...

I had meant to just let it roll off and into my empty rear shed/garage, but I miscalculated and couldn't clear the big tree. so will have to winch it back up tomorrow and get a better angle lol....FAIL

.

So, why did I bother with this thing? First, it has an engine. The P/O swore that he drove it around the neighborhood 2 months ago and then couldn't start it. He changed the fuel pump (I checked, it was brand new) and still nothing. When I got home I tried to start it - it cranks nicely (battery fully charged lends more credence to his claim), no odd noises or anything, and using starter fluid it hiccups but no start. So seems like no fuel to it. I half-assedly tried to jump the fuel pump in the dark, but didn't get it going. But seems that fuel pump is the culprit, and I'll investigate later. The plan will be to refresh the engine anyhow, after I pull it in the spring.

Well, a stock 12v isn't that special, right? I could get a newer/more powerful engine for about the same price as this crappy raider, so what else does it have that made it worth getting. Well, a few things:

3 pedals

off-road package (like the one I already have) with the LSD rear end. I don't need it, but I figure maybe I can sell it for some money to offset my towing gas or something...

of course, that also means it has a bouncy seat. So now I have two.....meaning I'll retrofit the other one to the passenger seat on the Rally Raider so we both get to be bouncy. 

And, manual windows. Mine has power windows. I'm not sure which I prefer for something like this - then again, I haven't confirmed whether the power windows in mine even WORK at this point. I suspect I'll put the manual windows in though.

It also has a gray interior/dash/steering wheel. I don't love the brown interior on mine, but it's in pretty nice shape. So I'll take a look at the interior on this one and decide if it's worth swapping or not. 

It also has a handful of other smaller things (brackets, fittings, trim) that I am missing from mine, so that will save me spending $100-200 on buying those things now. I'm sure I'll find some other stuff once I start taking things apart. Will definitely save all the glass and stick  it in my shed in case I ever need a windshield or window replacement, since it's probably getting kind of hard to find this stuff. 

All the lighting and electrics seem to work, so that's a positive thing, though it doesn't really matter much to me. All of the lights/lenses are intact, so those will go into the "spares" box. I'll also keep the front fenders and the hood, and perhaps refurbish the wheels, though I prefer the ones on the Rally Raider. 

The lift the previous previous owner did is of extremely questionable safety....

What else does it have:

Lots of rust

But that's ok, I have no need for the body or frame anyhow. 

So, I feel like that was worth a total cost of about $700 (including gas). It has a title as well, so I can probably get $100 scrapping it once I take everything I want, and maybe sell some parts. If anyone actually WANTS the body/frame for this, touch base with me and we can arrange for you to get it once I take what I want in the spring.

Vigo said:

This thread is starting to make me wonder how much nicer my cars would be if there was a season where I couldn't go outside.

Until it's too cold to go into the garage too!!

Vigo will be happy to know it was near 70 degrees today (apparently 24 degrees above normal), so I got to work on the car in my muddy yard after last night's heavy rain. First order of business: test the fuel pump. As expected, even though it looks brand-new, it doesn't work. Looks like the PO installed it without the pickup screen piece, so maybe it sucked up some junk from the tank and killed itself, IDK. 

I grabbed the one out of the other Raider (easy since the tank is out) and bench tested it - worked fine. So twisted a few wires together and basically hung it in the tank of the parts car to see what would happen.

Then this happened:

In case that little video doesn't work, what happened was the car fired right up almost immediately. I let it idle for a minute or two - engine feels good (no sign of rod knock or anything like that), with a lot of noise from dry pulley bearings probably. 

So then it was time to see if I coudl move the car. The clutch and brakes don't have much pressure, but with the clutch near the floor I got enough release to get it in gear, slowly chugged up the yard, and then backed into the shed

So, that's good. 

Now the bad - I noticed some dripping of water under the engine and it's almost certainly the water pump weeping. With that in mind, I checked the dipstick and yep - chocolate milk. So this is why the previous previous owner probably parked/sold this thing.....head gasket. I'm not all that worried about this as I planned to pull the heads do HG's, valve seals, timing belt, water pump, etc anyhow. Once I have it all apart in the spring I'll check the heads and see if they're warped or cracked. I also have the heads that came with Raider #1 that should be good (since that one had a spun bearing and not HG issues as far as I can tell). I need to do a compression test, but the instant start-up suggests it has decent compression. 

Also dug around the parts truck and checked out other stuff. The engine is just really grimy all over, and the motor mounts are completely shot (the fan couldn't even spin since it was sitting ON the bottom of the shroud, which I then removed). The transmission physically looks fine other than a lot of grime at the output shaft of the TC to the rear - I'll replace all those seals anyhow. 

Interior-wise, it's all there (and the hazard switch works - which those of you who know Monteros will know is a good thing). The P/O for some reason sprayed bedliner on all the upper cabin trim pieces, which seems kind of pointless since they were black to start with. Whatever he used apparently has no adhesion at all to the plastic, because it flakes right off if you touch it. So we'll see....the brown/tan interior in #1 is really in excellent condition but I may or may not do a wholesale switch over to the gray/black from #2. TBD.  What else....I mean, everthing seems to work - turn signals, defrost, lighting, etc. 

I know I said I didn't care about the headlight washer stuff in Raider #1, but since #2 has a good-condition reservoir and pump, figured I might as well swap it over.

Then real quick I took the 4-month-old battery out of the parts rig since it won't need power for a while and put it in #1 to get some power so I could roll down the windows and test some stuff. Windows work fine. Wipers work. And this one ALSO has a functional Hazard switch. 

I also grabbed the grille and headlight surrounds off #2 since they're better than the ones that came with #1 and not cracked....spiffy. And took the truck off jackstands since I don't need to get under it for a while and working inside it is easier with it at normal height. 

So anyhow, I'm going to leave it in the shed for a couple months and then in the spring will pull #2 around front and take the drivetrain out. Over the winter my main plan is to get pretty much everything ELSE done on #1, so will be slowly pulling parts off the one out back, fixing up the bouncy seats, probably get some new carpeting, and other things. 

Followed this guy out of my parking garage at work today. I've seen it before and it's always dirty. From the looks of things he got some trail damage on the front fender lol.

Then I saw some of my fellow commuters while crossing the bridge back into Va.

But I digress...

Went ahead tonight and pulled the center console and automatic shifter assembly, since my intent is to put the manual transmission in this thing.  Found about $1.25 in change....

Then pulled out the seats, which is really easy in this thing

Of course the driver's seat has the "bouncy base" which I'll clean up and keep (and have a second one in the parts Raider to use for the passenger)

Now this does bring up one issue - the bouncy seats don't tilt forward for access to the back seat. So if I put them on both sides, backseat access will be pretty lousy from the front doors (if not impossible). That said, I will probably remove the back seat anhow since who in their right mind wants to ride back there?? One thought is to mount a single bucket seat back there instead (Dakar support truck mechanic-style?), and if someone needs to sit in it they can just get in through the rear door. So, that's an idea. 

Additionally, I've been doing some measurements because I likely won't keep the Raider seats anyhow. They're in so-so condition, and I don't really like how they look. But most importatly, if this truck is going to do rally recce duty I'd prefer something a bit more bolstered. So my plan is to probably use the bouncy seat bases and possibly the OEM sliders off these seats, and find something sportier to bolt up (I was a big fan of my old WRX's seats, which have a similar rail spread, so may look into that option, TBD).

After that I pulled out all the carpet. It's not as terrible as some project cars I've had, but it's still 30 years old and pretty much brittle. I intend to replace it regardles..

With the carpet out, I can confirm that the entire floor is in excellent condition, with pretty much no sign of any rust, other than the four big plugs which were totally rusted out (will get some replacements for those). So that's great news, since I hate rust repair.

I see the holes in the floor, and I think: "Those look just about the right size for a one way ball scupper."

I've been spending too much time on my boat.

Brett_Murphy said:

I see the holes in the floor, and I think: "Those look just about the right size for a one way ball scupper."

I've been spending too much time on my boat.

I've actually thought about installing those on the rally car for when I wash out the interior with a hose (but I just use some plastic plugs). Hopefully the Raider won't need them and won't get water inside, since I intend for it to have carpeting :)

Man, this thread got way more exciting in the short time I didn't check it. MAJOR score on that parts truck! The 3.0/5spd is gonna make you happy.  I'm a big fan of that engine and still have parts to build a car (or two..) with another one (even a turbo manifold for a k-car 3.0 setup, a minivan plenum machined flat to bolt a supercharger on top of, another fwd 5spd trans, etc). My old 3.0 Dynasty that i swapped a 5spd into ran 15.2 with a slipping clutch in the 1/4. That's not fast but what it means is that the  heavier Montero will still be decidedly un-E36 M3ty. 

If you weren't hoarding that bouncy seat base I'd pay you for it! Also, wanna sell me one of your 2" hitch receiver plate things? I also need a functioning INCLINOMETER (what a fun word to say) if you happen to have two now. I'll take an extra oh-E36 M3 handle since you probably don't need all 6 of yours. I might need one rear bumper corner, I can't remember. This is if you get bored and want to spend time boxing stuff up for 'mehhh' money.  

Congrats tho. Major win.

Vigo said:

Man, this thread got way more exciting in the short time I didn't check it. MAJOR score on that parts truck! The 3.0/5spd is gonna make you happy.  I'm a big fan of that engine and still have parts to build a car (or two..) with another one (even a turbo manifold for a k-car 3.0 setup, a minivan plenum machined flat to bolt a supercharger on top of, another fwd 5spd trans, etc). My old 3.0 Dynasty that i swapped a 5spd into ran 15.2 with a slipping clutch in the 1/4. That's not fast but what it means is that the  heavier Montero will still be decidedly un-E36 M3ty. 

If you weren't hoarding that bouncy seat base I'd pay you for it! Also, wanna sell me one of your 2" hitch receiver plate things? I also need a functioning INCLINOMETER (what a fun word to say) if you happen to have two now. I'll take an extra oh-E36 M3 handle since you probably don't need all 6 of yours. I might need one rear bumper corner, I can't remember. This is if you get bored and want to spend time boxing stuff up for 'mehhh' money.  

Congrats tho. Major win.

lol, yeah, seems like all my threads are weeks of boring stuff, then something cool, then back to the boring stuff lol. I'm ok with it not being a rocket ship. I mean, my favorite car is a 160hp Porsche, even though it's slower than a modern minivan! As long as it has enough to get out of its own way, that's plenty. 

So parts-wise - yeah, gonna keep the other bouncy base for the time being, with plans to use it (though those plans could always change in the future). I can part with the hitch that came with the blue one (it's a bit more drop-down than the one I already had) - warning though, it's freaking heavy, so shipping may be relatively steep for something so small in size. Grab handles shouldn't be a problem - I'll have to verify what I have in the parts rig. I plan to swap black-colored stuff into my nice Raider, so they might have to be tan-colored ones. I'll take a look though. Inclinometer, both of them have one. I'll have to check them both out to see if they both work/have fluid in them, and if so I'll sell you one. The parts rig only has one bumper corner, and the one on the nice Raider is pretty bashed up so probably will keep that (plus, they're almost impossible to get off if the bolts are this rusty). I'll check this weekend on all that - my yard is a mud pit right now so not going out to the shed lol. 

As to money, we can figure something out. Also will be looking for any items that would be of use in refreshing this engine/transmission (TBD at the moment - but if you have items sitting around that fit that description, I'm not against some horse-trading). 

I'm impressed with the whole "I'm not sure what motor I'll use, something will show up" and then you work and work and then presto, a motor shows up. You make this look rather easy. 

mazdeuce - Seth said:

I'm impressed with the whole "I'm not sure what motor I'll use, something will show up" and then you work and work and then presto, a motor shows up. You make this look rather easy. 

 

probably too much time on FB marketplace.

and too much tolerance for dumb things like 1000-mile drives in a single day

Funny part is I almost passed on the blue Raider because the guy took FOREVER to get back to me the first two messages and I was about to say "berkeley it" and move on, until I decided to just call and hash it out (I prefer to have things typed so everyone knows what was said and what the deal is...)

As to the motor - yeah, hopefully all will be good once I pull the heads and redo the HG and timing stuff. I really don't enjoy motor work at all, so the less I have to do, the better - I find it tedius and don't really have great confidence in my abilities there. I'll do suspension and brake and interior details all day though. Engine work ranks only above "rust" (and just below "electrical") at the bottom of the list of car projects.....

I spent endless hours researching "other" motors (like the ones out of a Montero Sport) to figure out the different fit issues (like oil filter location)....plenty of options out there for 6G7x motors, but most of them involved buying a non-Gen1 truck which meant I really only got the motor and nothing else I needed. So getting a Gen1 that has other useful parts really worked out well, especially for the low cost. Having the least powerful 6G7x engine is the tradeoff, I suppose.