Hubba hubba hubba!
Continues to prove the statement that RPF1's look great on everything.
Hubba hubba hubba!
Continues to prove the statement that RPF1's look great on everything.
wawazat said:Continues to prove the statement that RPF1's look great on everything.
Indeed. I had wondered how it would turn out when I saw the Enkei boxes, but it looks great.
noddaz said:You are having fun! Great job so far.
Have you shot any por-15 up into the inside of the rust repairs? You don't want it to rust from the inside out.
Thank you,
No, I didn't know there was a sprayable option for POR-15. Some of those places are difficult to access and The car will be mostly dry now and will hardly ever see water save for the occasional rain shower to / from events.
Greg
10/24/20
We have had a beautiful, Dry October this year.. Rare around here to say the least.
I was excited to try out the Falken Azenis' and the Enkei's - Drove Grüne Hölle to work 2X this week. There is a bit of rubbing on the Rears again when the car is fully loaded with family, fuel and luggage. I have some options to explore there, and I am sure I can get it figured out.
We also went on a Rally / poker run style driving tour today. Of course the great weather we have been having broke and there was rain overnite making the leaves a bit slippery at times and the routes that the Fracking Pad well trucks use somewhat muddy. But we still had fun, and the girls were along today to help read the pace notes and navigate.
Event was Hosted by the Western Pa Triumph Club and the PVGP.
Someone is ready to drive..
Some Fall Views along the Way in the Hilly Countryside of Washington Co PA..
At the Finish point the car needed a bath, We also Stopped at a park later for lunch.
Some Dirty Fall Glamour Shots:
'Till Next Time!
Greg
3/14/21 Coronaversiary wrenchin'
1 year ago today I began to work from home for a while, like many of you did or probably still are.
Today I am beginning to pull the old trusty stock 225 that smokes terribly on downhill grades when in gear, and spits and sputters in hard corners on the autoX due to the 1bbl carb.
I will be building a proper Baffled / Dropped / extra capacity Oil Pan for the Loaner engine that I will be putting in for a few years while I gather parts and skookum slant 6 goodies for the (hopefully) final engine (unless boost prevails some day).
I began pulling the puny 1.5/ 1.75" exhaust, as well as fuel, electrical, and water connections.
Once I drop the driveshaft and get the trans out It will be ready to get the welder out and start fabricating!
Greg
Looking forward to seeing more.
I'll be interested in seeing what oil pan mods you come up with. I had considered adapting a used roundy-round dry sump pump to my slant six, but it looked a bit expensive.
I wonder if stalling in a turn might actually be from the gas tank? It is a interesting problem.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Those are expensive and also take up critical side block / front block room.
Ruster has one. Sorta. Its a wet sump external drive single stage.
TED_fiestaHP said:I wonder if stalling in a turn might actually be from the gas tank? It is a interesting problem.
It sure could be but I have no data to prove it's not. I would assume that the carb and fuel lines have enough fuel to keep the mighty 1 bbl happy for 10 seconds or so.
Greg
3/27/21
I got the Engine and trans pulled, Bolted motor mounts to a mock up block, Looked at some oil Pan options and made some lines on sheet metal for surgery.
Stock, Smoky 1 Bbl engine is out.
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Transmission is out
Transmission will get replaced with a Brand New Ford Motorsport Z spec T5 which has close ratios - especially between 1st and 2nd gear.
I have a Few Different oil Pans to choose from on this project: (lots of 67-76 A body ones, one 60-66 A Body, One F body and one 60-62 B Body Pan)
60-62 Belvedere/Fury/SavoyPhoenix/Polara Pan as compared to F Body Pan.
Only crazy Slant 6 Folks keep a Broken, Old Race Block around for Mock up purposes as No one makes one of those plastic mock up blocks in a slant 6 :D
B Body Pan on the Mock up ready to Drop in.
Cut Lines added:
Lots of Cutting, Welding, Grinding, and Fitting this week!
Greg
3/28/21
Lots of Welding, Cutting, Grinding, Hammering, shaping, checking for proper fit going on.
Pictures tell the story I think:
On the First Mock up I got a general Idea of What Needed Sliced and diced on this pan:
After the Second Mock up I knew what needed to move where... This Pan Hit the steering box side of the K frame, and Had a More Rearward Sump which was fine, I moved the Front of the sump forward about 3"
The Flat Sheet you see here replaced Bulge that was about 3/4" too far to the left.
First Slice and Dice to be able to clear the Steering Center Link - Not enough.
Final Slice and Dice on the Rear to clear the center Link:
3rd Time setting it in the Frame for a clearance check:
Proof of concept:
A Bit More Hammering on the Center Link Area, and some Slice, Dice and Hammer/ Dolly Work on the Front Corner Near the Passenger Side K Frame.
Steering Pittman Clearance at the cull left Lock position:
Idler Arm Clearance at Full R Lock:
Craft Time; lets make a box:
Step 1, Cardboard Template..
Step 2: Time to open the box and trace it onto a piece recycled Car Roof.
After Some Cutting, Welding, Hammering and Fitting..
It turned out okay for not having a shear or brake or proper Dolly tools.
More Welding Grinding, Cutting fun to commence tomorrow!
Greg
Looks great!
3/30/21
Got the 4th test fit completed; finished all the welding on the outside of the pan.
Lots more Grinding, smoothing, testing for leaks, then build the pickup tube and the internal baffles / Doors / Slosh control up on the docket!
Greg
Very nice - will the pan also add baffles?
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Baffles, doors, slosh control, oh my.
Yes it will have all of that.
Greg
I really like the old slant 6 cars, I was just recently looking at some on Craigslist. They are all so rusty though, even in California.
4/6/21
Well I got sidetracked off the project for a while - The Power company took 11 Trees out of my yard that were dead for free... But I had to do the clean up - that was part of the deal... Now I am back on task.
Got the Pan all done on the outside / water checked for leaks. I used a Stock 67-76 Dart/Valiant A Body Pickup tube and the Pan was 1.5" lower than the pickup, so I had to extend the pickup tube down to the pan bottom by the same amount. - Hardware store Steel Pipe was helpful in that endeavor.... Just cut a 1.5" section and Hot glued it into the tube, and boom, the tube reaches the bottom of the pan again.
All of the rest of the work is now focused on the inside, adding Trap Doors, Pickup isolation and Baffles.
Pics:
Got a few of the leakers fixed!
First try on the pickup tube extension came up ~1/2" Short.
2nd Try; Got it down to the floor.
Next Up, Baffles, Trap Doors, slosh control, Oh my!
Greg
4/10/21
I think I finished the Pan Today - Only took 2 or so weeks to build. Made Trap Doors, Baffles and More Baffles to prevent the oil from running up the sides of the pan on turns.
Checked for clearance of the trap doors to the Pickup - They swing freely and Clear the pick up fully when open. Also clearance and checked that the pickup tube clears the Right Side Baffle that I added.
A also got a box in the mail that had Hatted Rotors for the rear axle :-)
Now onto finishing the engine and Making some exhaust!
Greg
Looking fantastic
In reply to 84FSP :
Thanks - Lots more to do - A bit at a Time.
Greg
4/12/21
Got some small things done.
Refreshed / Painted Bellhousing and associated parts.. I blasted the shifter handle. Maybe I will get it Chromed someday but for Now It will be semigloss Black.
I will begin to build the block and mock up the pickup tube and Pan with the actual engine that's going in the car. It will have a rotating assembly and all the proper bits.
Shifter handle Stick Before: (It is some sort of swap meet Parts bin Find, but I like it as it has a great hand position relative to the steering wheel.
After Blasting, Ready for paint:
Other parts being cleaned / rejuvenated / painted for reinstall as well:
Greg
4/14/21
Got Lots of small things done recently.
Cleaned, blasted, and painted motor mounts, lots of engine mounting hardware, and the Shifter Handle.
I am currently Building a Loaner Short Block, so I needed to find all of the hardware, nuts, bolts for the Tins, Valve cover, Fuel Pump, Timing cover, Distributor hold down, Coil and misc brackets to make the engine do its thing.
Most of those Items I had in my parts stash.. So I was able to dig most of that stuff up and begin to mock up stuff on the block. I found out that the engine is 0.060" over bored and the piston is -0.157" in the hole, so with my big valve 45cc Head, and a steel shim head Gasket 0.020" the compression will be right at 9.78:1, which should be prefect for street cruising and serious autoX / track Days with an NA Cam.
I will be building a Timing cover with a Cam stop, and I had to buy some Rocker arm Shims for side play as well as longer Rocker Adjusting Screws and an Oil Slinger.
I have a New Rollmaster Timing Set and a New Romac Harmonic Dampner for the engine as well as Roller Rockers that I Believe are 1.5 Ratio - I have not measured them yet, but I forgot I had them... They turned up in my parts stash :-)
I should be able to get the cam degreed in soon, as well as the Timing cover with the cam stop welded up.
A few more small mods on the oil pan should wrap up the bottom of the block.
Parts for the Cam stop:
Degree Time!
Greg
Does the baffle need a hole for the dipstick, or is it able to reach around that?
MadScientistMatt said:Does the baffle need a hole for the dipstick, or is it able to reach around that?
I haven't Gotten that far yet. It will most likely need a hole or something, But Honestly the Dipstick is not correct now anyway, as I changed the entire volume / geometry of the pan. Will have to make a new one with new marks from an old spare.
Greg
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