I'm more curious about what is on the roof of your montero in the first pic ;)
I'm more curious about what is on the roof of your montero in the first pic ;)
You know that's what I love about GRM forum; you post a picture of something and half time you get requests for details about something else of yours that that they spotted in the background.
Ottawa said:You know that's what I love about GRM forum; you post a picture of something and half time you get requests for details about something else of yours that that they spotted in the background.
lol, well....we have similar tastes in vehicles. I know about his Monty, just wasn't sure what he's added onto it!
In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
Now you just need to add a DSM to your fleet. ;-)
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
Now you just need to add a DSM to your fleet. ;-)
I mean, the Raider has a 6G72 and is 99.9% Mitsubishi. That's close enough for me lol. I've been around enough DSMs to know I don't want to own one, even if they are fun drivers.
irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:I'm more curious about what is on the roof of your montero in the first pic ;)
Nice find! I need to update the Montero thread, we added a smittybilt awning and it works great! We used it on our drummond island trip for a late night dinner when it was raining, game changer for camping. Plus we get that instagram approved overland look! More updates to come on that truck, stainless exhaust is next up before winter storage.
Owning too many Mitsubishis turns into an exercise of repair wack a mole, but they sure are hard to beat for the money.
The event was a hilariously good time with the mixed surface. Lots of deep rutting due to soft ground meant some pretty wild transitions between pavement and dirt. This was my first event in RWD, and people are right to say it's where the fun is!
Next event is early November and there are a few things to addres before that: NA springs, supercharger belt and tensioner solution, and an alignment to get camber near neutral if needed. It's hard to judge weather alignment makes that big of a difference in rallycross, with event surfaces being so drastically different it doesn't make a lot of sense to dial in for one setup only for it to change.
Lots of other oddball cars there, the Detroit region sure has some eclectic people. This was my favorite, he was more sideways than any other car on course in this corolla.
engiekev said:irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:I'm more curious about what is on the roof of your montero in the first pic ;)
Nice find! I need to update the Montero thread, we added a smittybilt awning and it works great! We used it on our drummond island trip for a late night dinner when it was raining, game changer for camping. Plus we get that instagram approved overland look! More updates to come on that truck, stainless exhaust is next up before winter storage.
Owning too many Mitsubishis turns into an exercise of repair wack a mole, but they sure are hard to beat for the money.
That's what I assumed it was. I have one of the ARB awnings on the Sequoia and I might buy one of the small 4-ft ones to come off the back of the raider over the rear door
irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:engiekev said:irish44j (Forum Supporter) said:I'm more curious about what is on the roof of your montero in the first pic ;)
Nice find! I need to update the Montero thread, we added a smittybilt awning and it works great! We used it on our drummond island trip for a late night dinner when it was raining, game changer for camping. Plus we get that instagram approved overland look! More updates to come on that truck, stainless exhaust is next up before winter storage.
Owning too many Mitsubishis turns into an exercise of repair wack a mole, but they sure are hard to beat for the money.
That's what I assumed it was. I have one of the ARB awnings on the Sequoia and I might buy one of the small 4-ft ones to come off the back of the raider over the rear door
The quality for sure isnt the greatest, compared to ARB, but it works good enough when you know the shortcomings. The legs are the worst part, the twist-to-lock action isn't easy to use and leads to the telescoping ends falling out sometimes. Other than that, definitely recommended, and probably far cheaper for a 4ft version for the raider.
I am not a rallycrosser, but I know that long travel cars like trophy trucks put more emphasis on lateral movement of the contact patch than camber gain. Still, if at least part of your course is asphalt, I'd want to get some negative in there.
Keith Tanner said:I am not a rallycrosser, but I know that long travel cars like trophy trucks put more emphasis on lateral movement of the contact patch than camber gain. Still, if at least part of your course is asphalt, I'd want to get some negative in there.
I thought the same about keeping some negative static camber. This is the only true mixed surface event (once or twice per year likely) while the rest are dirt. However, almost half the dirt venues are on dirt/clay ovals which most of the course has pavement-like grip. I've heard some members describe it as "autocross on dirt".
I'm not too stressed on it, since the biggest setup improvement I will see is more seat time!
What tires are you running? I don't know anything about rally tires but on snow tires we found tire pressure to be by far and away the biggest tuning tool. Figure out the lowest pressures you can safely run on a variety of surfaces, then flavor to taste based on whatever the surface(s) you're running on. Probably the only surface you don't want to run the lowest possible is asphalt/super super hard packed dirt. We never did any alignment testing, but the boxster was limited to -.5* up front and we never really had any front grip issues. I don't think I'd want to let it go positive camber though.
Detroit does have an interesting mix of venues. FWIW a friend and I are thinking about getting back into rallycross, and if we end up in a modified class we don't really intend to run rally tires unless we decide to go to nationals because there's really only the one detroit venue where they're a distinct advantage. Snow tires and maybe even some aggressive tread pattern all seasons to try to not burn through a set of tires in a single dirt oval event like we have before.
engiekev said:Keith Tanner said:I am not a rallycrosser, but I know that long travel cars like trophy trucks put more emphasis on lateral movement of the contact patch than camber gain. Still, if at least part of your course is asphalt, I'd want to get some negative in there.
I thought the same about keeping some negative static camber. This is the only true mixed surface event (once or twice per year likely) while the rest are dirt. However, almost half the dirt venues are on dirt/clay ovals which most of the course has pavement-like grip. I've heard some members describe it as "autocross on dirt".
I'm not too stressed on it, since the biggest setup improvement I will see is more seat time!
I think maximizing rear suspension travel is going to be the best non-driver modification you can make.
dps214 said:What tires are you running? I don't know anything about rally tires but on snow tires we found tire pressure to be by far and away the biggest tuning tool. Figure out the lowest pressures you can safely run on a variety of surfaces, then flavor to taste based on whatever the surface(s) you're running on. Probably the only surface you don't want to run the lowest possible is asphalt/super super hard packed dirt. We never did any alignment testing, but the boxster was limited to -.5* up front and we never really had any front grip issues. I don't think I'd want to let it go positive camber though.
Detroit does have an interesting mix of venues. FWIW a friend and I are thinking about getting back into rallycross, and if we end up in a modified class we don't really intend to run rally tires unless we decide to go to nationals because there's really only the one detroit venue where they're a distinct advantage. Snow tires and maybe even some aggressive tread pattern all seasons to try to not burn through a set of tires in a single dirt oval event like we have before.
I'll only be running winter tires, like you mentioned gravel tires don't offer much of an advantage unless it's a mud bowl event. Even then, a few others in the region have had better luck with tire grooving winter tires. The FTD at Crystal Raceway (very very muddy) was a light civic with grooved cooper weathermasters. Gravels dont seem worth it when they take so long to warm up, even the softer compounds, since runs are only 1 min or less.
I have 2 sets of X-Ice, 1 set of the old tread Winterforce, and 1 set of Blizzaks that are fairly worn down. I'll probably try to use up the X-Ice for now since they're so soft and temps are dropping, and bust out the winterforce for muddy or dirt events like Crystal or Thistle Hill.
Last event I ran 32psi since it was mixed surface, and I did not want to debead since I didnt bring any spare winter tires! Next event I'll be using a tow dolly so I'll play around with pressures more and bringing the extra set of winterforce to have for spares, or play around with swapping sets.
Next event is Oakshade Raceway in Ohio, does Ohio region run there too? I remember it being a pretty fun venue, grippy enough on the bowl and tons of fun in the infield.
In reply to engiekev :
Ovr doesn't run there but you might get a few people showing up since it's close. High pressures for the last event were probably reasonable since it was half pavement and the rest didn't look too loose. Your tire strategy sounds about right, winterforces are amazing in mud but not great in cold temperatures.
After the last RallyX event running with the mystery springs and nearly bottoming out the entire dirt section, Joey graciously provided a set of GR2s with Stock NA springs.
My plan was to install these and change nothing else before the RallyX the next coming weekend, but I did notice a lot of vibration in the steering at speed which led me to believe a tie rod was shot. I traced it down to one of the outer rods being far too loose, so why not replace it? Unfortunately other things came up and I had to source parts locally, which for a manual rack tie rod was difficult! I did find one at Autozone for $50 each, not as cheap as RockAuto but it would work for the weekend. That installed fine but upon trying to adjust the other side, the inner tie rod snapped, crap!
So that led to skipping RallyX, ordering all inner/outer rods from RockAuto for less than the one outer rod at Autozone, and changed plans to do a offroad trip in the Montero.
It has new outer/inner rods now, and I hope to not have to touch that again for awhile. Next RallyX is about 1 month from now, so plenty of time to finish the suspension swap, and also address a few other things like the supercharger tensioner, alignment, and maybe a skidplate.
Oh, and I definitely need to powerwash the underside next time before any work, rookie mistake.
I decided to replace both inner and outer tie rods with parts from RockAuto, we'll see how long they last. A rough string alignment later, and the suspension work is done for now.
Next to tackle was the supercharger tensioner and belt assembly. I removed the OEM manual steering A/C belt tensioner bracket, and the frankenstein tensioner bolt and pulley system. However at this time I noticed the lower supercharger bracket, that attaches the manual steering a/c bracket, was completely broke! With all the weight of the supercharger being supported by the top two bolts, it had come loose and out of alignment. This might explain the slipping belt, but along with the old cracked belt and poor tensioner setup, it might have been all three issues culminating.
So, out the supercharger goes to figure out what went wrong and address the broken bracket. It was suprisingly easy to pull the supercharger, I'm used to turbochargers which put up much more of a fight.
To address the tensioner issue, I found a solution from an old moss motors installation guide which they supplied a "t-bolt" that affixes to the factory a/c tensioner bracket. The factory tensioner bolt/pulley pulls the belt up to tighten, but with the supercharger belt the pulley needs to push down to tighten. The "t-bolt" goes on the backside of the tensioner bracket, and has a slot to follow up and down the factory bracket and also prevent the t-bolt from spinning to tighten the pulley bolt. Then the tensioner bolt pushes down on the indent of the t-bolt to allow tension to be added easily. I modeled this in CAD with some quick measurements and sent it off to get machined, came back with a shiny part a few days later.
MossMotors part, no longer available.
I still need to machine the spacer that the pulley rests against, and also finish the tap on the t-bolt but this is a good start.
I did also pick up one of the 6.0L GM A/C auto tensioners to mock up while the supercharger is being reinstalled. I'll see if its possible to fabricate a steel mounting plate to attach to the factory bracket, to use the auto tensioner and an idler pulley.
In reply to engiekev :
Do you need any cheap snow tires to play on...........Marketplace - NEW TIRES 185/14 | Facebook
NMNA but brand new 185-70-14 Mastercraft snows for $25 in SE Michigan.
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:In reply to engiekev :
Do you need any cheap snow tires to play on...........Marketplace - NEW TIRES 185/14 | Facebook
NMNA but brand new 185-70-14 Mastercraft snows for $25 in SE Michigan.
I'm all set for now, thanks for the link! I believe I have 5 sets of 15" winter tires around, the only trick will be moving the tires around to different wheel sets.
Following along! Looks fun so far!
I attended my first Rallycross this year in my stock/lowered NB. It was fun, so I have some slight improvements planned. I also have my eyes on a supercharged car, but it's still to be determined it that will work out or not.
The supercharger tensioner "t-bolt" worked out great with some modification, the belt I ordered to match the old belt was slightly too short so I needed to slot the top of the t-bolt to allow for more loose travel on the tensioner. I also tapped the factory bracket to m8x1.25, and used a DSM alternator tensioner bolt in its place to apply tension down on the t-bolt.
Not the best pic, but you get the idea.
I didn't have a lot of time to mess with the GM AC auto tensioner, so that's on the list for another time. The manual tensioner seems to work great so far, no visible signs of slipping.
I diagnosed the supposed belt slip issue down to the bypass valve linkage, the linkage arm from the actuator goes into a bracket on the bypass valve shaft. This interface was very worn out, and the actuator was sometimes not closing the bypass valve. I'll try to 3D print a bushing to fit in its place, but some electrical tape on the actuator rod solved the problem for a short term fix. We now have full boost during shifts and tip ins!
Detroit region returned to Milan Dragway for a mixed surface event and I finally convinced Joey4482 to get out and drive. It was a blast, very fast course with plenty of sideways action. The dirt sections rutted out again as expected, but this time with the stock springs it was a much better experience. On the large bumps it did feel like the rear was bouncing a bit much and struggling to keep the rear tires in place, so maybe the old shocks and springs I swapped on are past their prime for rallycross. OR maybe I'm overthinking this, the course was very rough and there weren't many cars that weren't bouncing out of shape in the rutted spots.
Maybe an NB suspension swap would be the way to go forward (for the improved mount design), and if I feel spendy the Flyin Miata bumpstops as well. This would increase the ride height slightly however, by 0.5-1" with factory NB suspension? This however does not fit the goal of the project to minimize costs, and keep things simple!
Man, you're like a year ahead of my plans for the crusty miata in my garage.
Any chance you could send me the CAD file for the T-bolt? The tensioner is the only thing I don't have for the blower setup.
psteav (Forum Supporter) said:Man, you're like a year ahead of my plans for the crusty miata in my garage.
Any chance you could send me the CAD file for the T-bolt? The tensioner is the only thing I don't have for the blower setup.
Sure, but it would only work for the factory manual power steering bracket. I could work on something for the power steering bracket, but it likely would have to be totally different design, and in that case makes a lot more sense to make something more similar to the TrackDog setup. And you might be better off trying to find a used trackdog setup, or new, $200 isn't a bad price for the R&D, thick mounting plate that is machined, and two pulleys. Even just for material cost, it would be up around $100-$150 to make a DIY version, if factoring in a plasma cut thick bracket.
I'm only ahead because I bought the car with the supercharger already installed! Being rusty and crusty has its positives. Joey and I both didn't feel the need for any mechanical sympathy for the car during the event, which is how it should be for rallycross!
In other developments, I found my own hardtop for a decent price and will be plasti-dipping it (its an original BRG hard top so worth preserving the paint) and installing it soon.
Sadly no event updates as Detroit region has sparse offerings these days. I don't particularly care for the crystal venue, and spring will be a lapse of events if the past is any indication on Michigan turning into a rainforest.
Now that I know I like RWD, I'm on the hunt for an NB in better shape (AC and power steering sound nice) or *wildcard" a 986 boxster.
Plans for the rusty tuna is to foamectomy the seats all the way, need more headroom, then address the overheating issues. It ran a bit hot at the last event, so it's due for a cheap rad and flush. The intake filter is less than ideal on these superchargers, I'd like to make a heat shield and adapt a Uni filter, on the cheap. Since there is no intercooler, I need to keep the supercharger inlet temps as low as possible.
In reply to engiekev :
Crystal is a lot of fun if there is a lot of snow on the ground and they let us run on the track. Full throttle pitch sideways into the banking and keep it pinned all the way through!
I have not been there since 2013 or so. That was when they'd start to hit max entries about 24 hours after opening registration, but I'd never know if I could make it until two or three days before the event.
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