In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
yah I pretty much had to rebuild the whole front of the car, I am not choosing to replace the steering rack or the shocks or anything else TBH, I just went with upgraded parts while they were being replaced. the steering rack is leaking and I never want to be under this car again so id rather replace it now while everything is apart but If i can get something better than the base models rack I may as well try to do so While I am replacing it
I have the ultra racing rear sway bar and thats about as far as I can go in regards to a rear sway bar as I don't have any welding skills nor a tube bender or anything like that.
I don't think I'll need a LSD, I don't plan to drive the car hard like that where ID require a LSD
Fair enough.
My SCH40 bar is on, I'll take it for a drive tomorrow.
Old subframe/engine cradle vs the "new one" from a used parts place that I cleaned up, painted and installed Siberian bushing into. I wish I had a compressor strong enough to run an air chisel as that black factory paint is a major PITA. the stuff cracks and then holds in moisture and just rots stuff out, I had to go around with a hand chisel to knock a lot of it off and then use a wire wheel brush with my drill.
if you need a subframe try ordering one from ebay, there are subframes there made in korea and they are like $1000 + cheaper than Hyundai or KIA
If it's powder coating instead of paint, oven cleaner can usually remove it.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
its deep rust that starts at the paint like some of the rust chips that came off the old frame were a few mm thick, its no fun. I was actually going to post a pic, I have a shopping bag of like 5lbs of pure rust that came off the original subframe and was going to make a joke about not needing to acid dip cars in Ontario to drop weight, just drive them for a few winters.
fyi if you are going to do the subframe bushings you will probably have to buy new rubber washers or something similar as a replacement as the cars OEM dustcaps for the inside or top side of the frame won't fit with Siberian bushings
mine all ripped coming out and the Siberian bushings are larger than the stock ones so you can't reinstall these anyway. I used 2x rubber washers per corner and enlarged the inner side of the hole a few mm. I linked the washers below and I reused the metal washer from the original dust seal as a replacement.
washers I used as replacements are Hillman 4336 1-1/2 ID x 2-3/8 OD x 1/8 in. Large Neoprene Washer (4-Pack)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IAVH0RW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
this should help explain what I mean. on the far right picture you can see the new neoprene washers and the reused metal washer from the top of the dustcap that is still in place on the frame.
IS this bar to far gone? is it salvageable? mine was pitted horribly and this is one I got from a used parts or scrap yard, the guy there said I could return it if I wanted to. the bar is supposed to be 22mm and its worn this much? like the measurement on the outside of that collar is 22.2mm. also the energy suspension bushings I bought are for 22mm bars not 21.5 mm bars so that sucks
There are no half mm bars. That's wear and corrosion. The wife's second gen accent (2000) rear bar was 13mm, but under the bushings at 190k miles it was 10mm-ish.
In reply to bobzilla :
I realize that. those bars on the outside of that collar are 22.1 or so mm and 21.43 inside. is there any point in keeping these? I am kind of just wanting to buy a new 22mm bar even though thats $170. that rust is going to kill bushings and even if i can get it sanded smooth it will never be round. i am really getting sick of dicking around with this car.
fyi I could get a hyundai steering rack for $500 Canadian but didn't and just got a remand rack thats for this car from rock auto. I don't want to have to bother shipping things back or eating anymore costs fixing this thing. this was meant to just be replace the shocks and springs and control arm bushings not rebuild the whole pos. lol
on the rack thing one of the reman manufactures I talked to said they use both racks to replace each other and was shocked there was a difference in parts and wanted to know why I was inquiring about it lol... but they said one rack seals differently and uses o rings on the hoses. . O.o
anyway would you people sand those bars smooth and try to run them or just get new bars?
I think you're over thinking and letting the minutia get the better of you personally. I'd slap new bushings with grease in and roll. There are many that believe running a fsb on a fwd car for autox is a no no. I'm not one of them but I also don't suggest getting a bigger one.
In reply to bobzilla :
the only good bar I have is 24mm. and its massive.. so you think that bar i posted pics of the 22mm is ok? would or should you go to a tighter bushing as mine are 22mm? i just don't like putting hack E36 M3 on my car and then replacing it 3 weeks later and costing me more money and time.
I would use rubber oe style bushings, well greased and I'd tighten the clamps a bit in the vice to take up the extra space. Put a little squeeze but not too much.
but I've been called a hack before so ymmv
In reply to bobzilla :
i have energy suspension sway bar bushings purchased so thats just more money in the opposite direction, and the oe bushings aren't rubber they are some kind of poly. screw it new sway bar.. lol sorry to waste your peoples time ..
thanks Bobzilla..
In reply to bobzilla :
yah I just ordered moog bushings for this bar, I am kinda sick of spending money on this car, hopefully its doesn't chatter or anything..
Skinny how thick is your swaybar the front one? I can get a new bar from Hyundai for the car that is without sports suspension for $250 but the kia bar is like $400 because they sell all the bushings and brackets and stuff as one unit and possibly the endlinks..
I have no idea.
I've never measured it; I've never looked at it.
I don't change front bars on FWD vehicles.
Question: Is this your first car or something; have you imprinted on it?
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Agreed. A little less front bar on fwd is actually a good thing.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
imprinted on it? I am just trying to finish it.. its mildly infuriating that every step I take cost more parts lol.. I kinda wish I had lit the thing on fire like 4 months ago but a majority of these parts are unreturnable as I purchased them in the winter while I was working. I've just been trying to have fun messing with it, I've never done poly bushings on a car or lowering springs.
my first vehicle was an RZ350 then a few ninjas, some crx's ,3 to be exact then a 90 toyota pickup and bunch of work vehicles and back to a 22re pickup then this pos.
I was asking as I would just buy the hyundai bar and skip the bars from scrap yards and just put my car together.
is wear on a sway bar a problem?
edit
I had all the parts pretty much to rebuild the front end, shocks, springs poly bushings but the rack and the subframe were "suprises" and well i was already burning money by that point..
In reply to bobzilla :
yes ok but does less bar mean your sway bar is rattling around in the bushing is a good thing ?
Rust/pitting is Mother Nature's way of softening a front sway bar for better handling.
I would only put new sway bar bushings in IF the old ones were defective. I would not change the front bar for any reason unless it was physically broken. Even if it was rusty.
If it was rattling, I'd squeeze the bar mount in a vise to make it tighter. I've been known to run plastic shims as well
In the immortal words of Freiburger "don't get it perfect, just get it done."
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I found a low mileage 22mm bar and its nice, so thats going in, I returned the pos one and bought the new one for half the price so thats awesome to. I bought energy suspension bushings and that other bar would have torn those up and I couldn't do it sorry. I don't like that sort of fix unless its the thing to get you home or keep you on the road for a few months type thing. I Don't want to have to deal with problems or anything once this subframe goes on.
also Bobzilla I wasn't calling you a hack or inferring you were one, I apologize if that's how it came across. I just don't like doing things like that I am more of a buy new parts type of person and like things working the way they are supposed to be working. I've worked in the logging industry and done my share of get home fixes on things though.
anyway Ill post pics of the replacement remanded steering rack in the am and the one that came out of my car with measurements etc and pics of the ports and the hoses so if someone wants to try swapping racks in the future they can check to see if the base to another model will be a problem.. I am sure the dimensions of the rack were the same I was more worried that the diameter on the pressure lines inlets would be different or something strange and I don't have time to deal with it.
I squeezed the sway bar mounts on the wife's 2000 accent when we put the trans in at 120k miles. Lubed the bushings really well. We sold that car at 250k miles, the front sway bar never made a noise in that 130k miles. Its not a "get home fix/bodge". It's a legitimate fix for an older car.
I do all I can to not just throw parts at a car if I can help it. THe only exception was the 40 yo c10.... there wasn't much option for a lot of that.
In reply to bobzilla :
I know you guys see it as a viable option and I Am sure it obviously is, tbh I already have the parts so ID rather use the energy suspension bushings that I have and I can't return them now.. One of my first jobs was at a motorcycle shop and everything was always new parts unless serviceable and I guess thats just how I like things now.
let me guess ports on those steering racks would have been the same size right? like there is no deviation in steering rack tubing size unless you are into F350s type thing...
edit
I Am also not auto crossing this car, I am using it as a commuter so I really just want the vague wandering front end fixed and to not have to touch the car again.. I am looking more for onramp speed and things like that than rotation on a autocross track.
my rear lower engine mount is age cracked and I looked at the replacement cost and its like $150 plus shipping etc and that is possibly us $..
have any of you guys tried this stuff?
https://www.suspension.com/blog/do-it-yourself-liquid-urethane-motor-mount-replacement-inserts/
its like $30 us but i am sure I could find it elswhere once researched
https://www.suspension.com/diymmi
what about this? now this is kind of a hack fix but O.o oh well lol
https://importnut.net/home-made-poly-urethane-engine-mounts/
We filled the voids on the control arm bushings on my buddy autox Accent with Window Weld, and I've used it on other stuff, too. It's a hack, but it works pretty well.
In reply to 02Pilot :
looks interesting if a$50 tube is enough to do a few bushings
skip to 6:50 for him working on the mounts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nROztRMizg
my engine mount bushings are loose enough to like wiggle by hand. is that in anyway normal?
