Knurled. said:I am thinking something mid engined.
A beetle,put the volvo drivetrain in the back.
Knurled. said:I am thinking something mid engined.
A beetle,put the volvo drivetrain in the back.
Knurled. said:Once again, the Law of Conservation of Mechanical Entropy rears its head. Need to pass emissions by early March, which means eliminating that pesky P0420.
: You have purchased IPD 3" DOWNPIPE
(the next day)
: Congratulations! You have unlocked CRACKED ENGINE BLOCK
when you forget to turn iddqd back on before phobos anomaly
EvanB said:
Their little "Student Driver" bumper sticker blocked off half the grille vents, now the engine is going to overheat!
I really like the Escort style engine mount bracket. Looks beefy as all heck.
Reminding myself how the cam phaser wiring was threaded into the loom.
Four coils down, one to go.
This actually is the one that had been shorting out to the head. Power feed for #2 coil. I diapered under it with electrical tape 10 months ago.
Did some extra credit as well, this had been causing a low pedal after hard righthand corners and recently started knocking like loose lugnuts but only in those righthand corners.
Part 2 of the Rock Auto order showed up, and the PCV hose rebuild kit is missing all the clamps.
Grr. I'll have to disassemble the old hoses and reuse the clamps, because I hate worm clamps with a passion. Granted, I have done this many times before, but I bought the kit that came with clamps because I didn't want to have to do that if I could just spend an extra ten bucks or so.
Filed a report with Rock Auto, not expecting to get anything from it but they should at least know that something was wrong.
Came with intake manifold, throttle body, exhaust manifold, and turbo. Now I'll be able to see if the B5244T5 turbo is the same K24-7400 as the B5254T4 or if it's a smaller unit. If it's the same, then now I have two of them...
It's the same turbo. But this one is damaged, so I will be swapping my known-good turbo. This one will make a good core to stick an Audi hotside on for the Quantum.
The oil cooler is mangled, there are some damaged hoses, and, the worst one, the exhaust cam phaser is damaged. You can pop it in and out like you shouldn't be able to.
Good news, though. Either the throttle body was recently replaced, or the engine has low miles.
After 180-200k or so, the plastic gear's teeth will be razor thin close to where the spindle for the counter gear is. This gear has barely any wear, I am guessing 60-70k miles.
That's all ancillary stuff in my experience, that you cannot make shipping damage claims on. Kinda like when they rammed a 5.3 into my truck cap with a forklift and then told me to get berkeleyed when I filed a claim on the coil, harness, and MAF they ruined.
Oh, they were explicit that I was getting a longblock and anything else they left on the engine was not part of the deal.
Technically i guess I could file a claim for the exhaust cam phaser, but I got another K24-7400, AND a $350 throttle body, and a good belt tensioner pulley (mine's grumbly) so I figure we're more than even, why bother?
Rock Auto wants me to ship the hoses back. I'll just e-mail them and say I sourced the clamps locally. All the hoses look like they were recently replaced, actually, but I want to take them off and make sure the block is free of crud.
Note for later - Volvo appears to be looking at the 16th rising edge after the missing tooth.
The timing mark on the crank is NOT TDC! It's a few degrees before.
TDC:
Crank lock tool in place:
This also corresponds to the phasers being maxed out in one direction and the factory scribe marks on the cam pulleys lining up with the engine cover.
you see, they have no keyways, and non keywayed pullies yeek me out a little
First major SNAFU. Gasket set came with the wrong cam seals. Might not see them today.
Given that the engine is turning the coolant into foam all the time now, I will just have to keep pressing on. Replacing them is non optional because the ones on the engine were leaking, and getting to them is an enormous pain in the butt on an assembled car.
Severe major SNAFU, the lift broke and the left side will not come down. Spent the last 10 minutes finding heart rate levels not seen since I had heatstroke when I was 20, since the left side will not come down off its lock and the right side will not go up, and was sinking almost as fast as the pump could push fluid in, and I'm watching the car get ready to fall over on its side.
Rick's on his way over to give me a hand, and figure out WTF. Need to take a few breaths.
Car is on the ground now. (Oh, that part will happen pretty definitely!) For whatever reason the right side ram would bleed all its pressure into the left side, so the right side would not go up, and also pressure would "equalize" by dropping the right and raising the left. The right side was not stuck on its lock, it was being pushed all the way up by the fluid in the left, which would drop as a result.
After staring at the problem for a half hour, I got the idea to use a cherrypicker to pick the right side up off of its safety, manually release that side's safety, and walk it down a bit, and then have Rick lower the left side while I watched, see-sawing the car down about 4 inches at a time, one side at a time, until it was low enough that we could set the left side on jackstands and deal with the car with a floor jack.
I am in no mental state to work on anything right now 
Engine is half disconnected, and I was in the process of starting to pull the suspension apart so I could get the angle gear off so I could get to the torque converter and some of the bellhousing bolts.
Daaaaaaaauuuuuummmmnnnnn !!!!!
Glad you're ok, and that you also got the car down safely. Now go have a cold one and change your underpants.
That's terrifying. Glad there was no injury to person or property. Good luck getting the lift gremlins sorted out.
Holy E36 M3. Glad it worked out. I can think of quite a few ways that could have gone bad.
It was probably the scariest thing I've experienced in my entire life, in the adult fear "Okay, so this is going to end very badly, and you have plenty of time to watch it happen while being unable to stop it"
I chilled out for a little, then said I'll just rack the car (on a different lift!) and drain the coolant. That was a few hours ago, I just kept going until my back said no, then I went some more.
Engine is sitting on two mounts, all fluid hoses are disconnected, A/C compressor is out, intake manifold is off... and I discovered that the S60R PCV trap box thing is different than the one for the B5244T5. The hose to the intake manifold comes out in a different spot entirely. And I'd wasted an hour trying to make the new S60R hose fit the 2.4 trap. So I went to remove the old trap and clean it out, noting that the lower return hose was where my oil leak was coming from.
The plastic started to crumble. Well, that explains why it was leaking. Will soldier on with the "wrong" breather trap.
Also, it is REALLY EASY to pull the angle gear if you have the downpipe out. And I found that my flex pipe was completely broken. I doubt that was the cause of the cat code though, because I saw the rear O2 switching fast like a narrowband upstream O2, a sure indicator of a bad cat.
Need to remember to get a T55 and my spare turbo from home. Can't use this turbo either, there is what appears to be a huge crack in the hotside. And maybe my Sennheiser (?) cordless headphones that I bought a decade ago, the battery in my $20 Bluetooth unit only lasts 45 minutes now.
I get to drive a PowerShift equipped Focus now! This is gonna be neat
I have a nice new 2.5" flex section, if itl'll work stop by and grab it.
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