Team Stampie Project T&A

Not a good day to be the A.  Looks like the wood "firewall" and hood took most of the damage. I think I can tweak the grill shell back.

Limb took out the power line and that did enough damage at the house side that I have to wait until tomorrow to get an electrician out. I'm using the 350T battery to get into hurricane mode.

Put my coke in the freezer so I can have whiskey and coke tonight. 

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Oh No!

In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :

It could have been worse.  No one was hurt, The trailer next to the A kept the limb from damaging it's frame I think, and who doesn't like drinking whiskey and coke under led lights?

Damn, Dude!

That sucks!

Are you sure you didnt use that limb for hoisting the Bradley? Because your power is out, you no longer have a Bradley, and you've been drinking.

In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :

You make that all sound like a bad thing.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

I'm 2 out of thise 3 right now. Definitely not bad theinfs.

In reply to maschinenbau (I live here) :

I'm sorry your power is out.  Shoudl I overnight LEDs?

Meant to do a budget update this weekend.  I like how Dusterdb13 does his so 1) I don't forget something and 2) I know exactly where I stand.

Known:

$200 Model T frame

$313 Nissan 350z ($260 cash, $33 labor 4 hours x $8.25, and $20 tip to ex boxer)

$30 Frame boxing material (talking to super cool chassis builder dude this might go down)

$10 Radiator (FMV thread)

$114.21 60 feet tubing (FL minimum wage went up $8.46 x 13.5 hours) (traded delivery of vehicle for tubing)

$46.78 20 feet tubing (bought an extra stick just in case)

$28 Used timing chain off Ebay

Estimated

$100 Wheels (need to junkyard them - high estimate)

$20 Junkyard driveshaft build

Recovery:

$25 Sold 350z horn to myself.

Total:

$836.99

so, is there a way to use the tree branch in the build?

In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :

That'll have to be part of the Model A build which is way down the line.

knowing my history of making suggestions... I'm not going to offer any beyond the above

Today was get back on Model T day.  We went out and first thing was I wanted to go over the gas line as I remember it leaking last time.  Within minutes I decided that the guy that ran the gas line last summer was a dumbass.

We then went on a supply run so all we got done today was this.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

I'm definitely interested in seeing how you run the new lines from coil-stock.

Make all the mistakes so I don't have to!

A year ago June I took the Brembo brakes off the 350z. It kicked my ass for four hours.  Today with the holiday sale I went to get replacement brakes.  It took me 1 hour and that included removing the front brakes from an Altima for junkyard experimenting. The biggest difference was I have my Milwaukee cordless impact now. 

Here's the donor. Only G35 or 350z in the whole yard.

The rotor you see there is from the failed experiment. 

All my brake parts.

And all at a cost of $71.92.  I got the soft lines and the pads free.

I have been thinking about the 26 T a lot lately. I'm afraid that doing the required safety items for the Challenge will change it to much. I've decided to talk to the tech guys and see if it'll actually pass tech with my plans. 

That means the 350z has become our Challenge car for this year.  Is build thread is at https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/team-stampie-2020-challenge-350z/176770/page1/

Team Stampie Project T&A© is currently undergoing reorganization.

1926 Model T 

I talked to the track officials and they were good with it.  After some discussions about tech inspections in Tom's absence I thought it best to discuss it with him.  Without major changes it just won't be safe enough.  Mainly brakes and lack of safety back ups to the main trans brake (not that kind of trans brake.  The Model T has it's main brake as a band in the transmission).  I agree with him and I'll keep plugging away at the Model T to make it a fun driver.  This also frees up things like being able to spend money on it without worrying about Challenge budget.

1925 Model T (frame)

This was going to be the 350T.  This summer I bought a top secret item that kind of changed those plans.  I would be pushing the rules so much with that build I was planning on bringing a back up car just in case they wouldn't let it run.  The more I thought about it the more I thought it while I think it would be totally within the rule set it was getting close to the don't be a dick rule.  This is now on the back burner as I reserve the right to be a semi dick in the future.

1928 Model A

This was going to be the last build of the T&As.  Now it's at the front of the line.  Plan is for a modern hot rod meeting all Challenge rules.  I still want to do it as a half budget build so things will have to fall into place for junkyard half off sales and all you can carry sales.  Current budget is $750 for the car and it's parts plus $40 for a Michael's Miata Challenge seat.  I'll get started at the Thanksgiving sales.

1928 Model A

I decided in order to keep it less confusing I'll head each post as to what car out pertains to.  

We got home from Lil Stampie getting a haircut and I found that brown Santa had left me a present. This is the back engine plate for a post GM pre ecotec Saab engine.

The theory is that at least these four bolts holes are in common with the GM metric pattern.  Two of them are alignment dowel holes. 

In related news, does anyone have an Isuzu rwd manual transmission from the late 90s early 2000s?

Edit - Looks like 98-02 Amigo/Rodeo 2.2 4 Cylinder 2wd - Might prefer 98-99.

Very interesting.  I'm curious where you go with all this.

Let me know if robotic-fire could come in handy.

In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :

Yeah absolute worse case scenario is Saab made a freaking bolt on engine plate for people like us to make our own adapter plates.

1928 Model A

Today was Thanksgiving 50% off sale!  I had stalked this 2000 Infiniti Q45 in their inventory for the last couple of weeks.

Major reasons for choosing it was coil on shock rear suspension, full subframe for rear suspension, 5x114.3 lug pattern, 3.692 LSD rear, and it was available.

I got under it and saw that the exhaust was major in the way. That's why I love my Milwaukee hacksaw. It made short order of cutting the rubber exhaust hangers and tada exhaust out.

Next was the driveshaft bolts and I cut the emergency brake cable on the main line coming from the front.  About this moment I noticed that the rear jack stands were right under the forward two subframe mounting bolts.  While I pondered that I took out the 4 12mm top shock nuts and the rear strut brace.  While doing that I noticed that the car still had it's jack in the truck.  Remember boys and girls you can't take a jack into the junkyard with you but anything inside the yard is fair game. Before you look at the following picture I never got under the car like this and only relocated the jack stands a few inches forward. 

That done I gave the car a good shake test and then removed the two rear mounting bolts. The rear dropped enough that the shocks came out of their mounts  I did the passenger front bolt and then the drivers front bolt. It hung up a little on that one but a little prying action and plop it was down.

I cut the brake hard lines and the ABS sensor wiring then drug this heavy SOB out.

I needed to take all my tools back to my truck then come back for the rear.  About this time a kid came up and asked if I had a pry bar. I let him borrow it and told him I'd be back but he could leave it on the rear if I wasn't.

Unloaded the tools them headed back in right as he was returning the pry bar.  I guilt tripped him into helping me load it up on Marty. 

This is when I realized that I should have filled up Marty's tires with air. Lucky I was only 17 rows from the front but it took a long time with me resting every 20 yards.  So then we got to check out. This was what I worried about. Best case I figured I walked out $80 lighter. Worse case they nickel and dime me for close to $300. Somewhere in the middle I figured I might get lucky and they charge me for brakes that are budget exempt.

So actual budget hit is $79.99 for the axle assembly, $10.49 for the sway bar,  and $60.98 for the Knee - Compete Car?  The rest are exempt so a $151.46 budget hit.  I can live with that.

Loaded her up with the chain hoist they provide and came home to rest.

Would it be possible to get a shot of you in your JYard attire?

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

I already changed but today it was Cintas khaki shorts with a black GRM shirt.  I get the shorts free at work so me being cheap I wear them all the time.  GRM shirt was because it was the first one I picked up.

Edit - Oh and flip flops but yall probably already knew that.

Stampie (FS) said:

In reply to 759NRNG (Forum Partidario) :

I already changed but today it was Cintas khaki shorts with a black GRM shirt.  I get the shorts free at work so me being cheap I wear them all the time.  GRM shirt was because it was the first one I picked up.

Edit - Oh and flip flops but yall probably already knew that.

What no pink Crocs!?!?!?   and there's not a speck of dirt/mud onya