Ok. Crunch time. I have two real working days and a few odd hours here and there this month. The goal is to at least start the engine before August.
Im mentally exhausted at the moment, but i am having real trouble trying to draw a wiring diagram so I've come to ask for help. I've tried google but apparently I'm computer illiterate and can't find anything.
The electrical system from the car is essentially gone, with the exception of most of the lighting system still being intact. The harness and switches in the column are mostly intact and what I'd like to do is use the key to start the car and the signal stalk to signal. The lights will be on a toggle switch (low beam only) and the original brake light switch is floating around somewhere. Lights can be taken care of later though.
What I need is a simple diagram of the major components: battery, starter, alternator, ign. switch, and distributor, and any fuses I may need in those circuits, this is a SBC with HEI ignition and a basic Chevy alt. that I need to run from a 1979 thunderbird ignition switch. I should be able to do this in my sleep, but angry pixies scare me, and I've never wired a car from scratch. I have battery cables, a 4 circuit fuse block (charging, lights, fan, ???) and I think enough wire kicking around to work with. I also have the original fuse block, though I don't know if I can use it because that space has been taken by clutch linkage.
So point me in the right direction, draw me a picture, laugh at my ineptitude, anything. Thanks!
Hei is simple. BAT terminal gets a fat 10 gauge power from ignition switch. Other terminal is a tach output if you so choose. Alternator is almost as easy. You loop one terminal off the plug to the lug on the back and the other through idiot light to ignition power. Barring that i think you can just start it and once the rpm get high enough it self excites(like a hand whammy?) and starts charging. Starter is a 10-12ga from ignition switch start wire to the little guy on the solenoid. Ford column so I don't have any diagrams of that but a tester should have it figured out in a few minutes.
the battery will be on a yet-to-be-built shelf where my finger is. And this pile of wires terrifies me. It shouldn't, but I can admit that it does. I need to get a battery so I can start hooking stuff up and testing. I don't have a multimeter I trust. Funny how I can cut the car in half, engine swap it, fabricate a clutch pedal and linkage, chop the roof, mount seats, lower it, and all this other crap, and THIS is where I start going "I don't know if I can do this."
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
Awesome. Thanks. Don't know why my googling was coming up dumb.
No pictures because not much to see. Vacuum ports in the manifold are plugged except the one for the brake booster. Battery position finalized so I can build a shelf now and start wiring. Battery bought. Alternator belt figured out and installed. Gates 7430, if anyone is thinking of doing this swap. Throttle cable and bracket attached to carb, throttle return spring installed.
I think I can get enough of the wiring done Saturday to potentially fire it up, but with no fuel line and needing to drop the tank again, and with no coolant (still need to figure out hoses) I think we'll hold off for a bit.
Haven't figure out the loud pedal yet, Mr. Hoopes.
Electrics need juice. So I bought a battery.
Early on I removed the part of the car where the original battery lived. Plus it was way out in front of the front wheels so I wouldn't have used that spot anyway. Only now there is way less room in the engine bay because I got too happy with the sawzall and too happy with the lowering now a battery wouldn't fit anywhere good that didn't present either danger from the tire or from the exhaust. And I don't want to put the thing in the trunk because battery cable is expensive, I'm gonna use what I have. So, I decided the passenger didn't need so much foot room.
plus, there's a big hole there anyway, why make patch panels if you don't have to?
As is the theme with this car, measure, mark, sawzall.
Dig those exhaust pipes.
Then, "tin snips, meet rusty scrap."
Still need to flappy disc that rust off and weld it in, but here's proof:
"If it works, it's not dumb."
That concludes my half hour in the shop today.
I think the rules say 2 return springs on the throttle if you dont already have them.
Call or text me when you get time
Battery box finished, just have to make a strap
Looking for the little fuse block I have (but couldn't find) I DID find the wipers for the racecar
And the radiator has been altered
it's tight, but it clears. And for some reason I like having as few belts as possible
that'll keep the coolant flowing and the battery supplied with electricity. We don't need anything else.
And the underside of the exhaust. I think that's enough gap to not cause issue with the oil pan.
In other news, the driveline is the right length, just needs a ujoint to adapt into the 9" yoke. And with that, I'm calling lunch break. Then it's wiring for reals.
Dipstick!
it's the one from the van, so it's quite long and the bracket held it way up high, so I gave it a little bend and found another place to bolt the bracket. Works now. The eagle eyed among you may notice the thermostat is installed too.
Then I started pulling the old harnesses apart and harvesting wires. I found the pigtail for the alternator, and the wires for the distributor "batt" and "tach". And the wire for the starter solenoid, both the starter switch and the main 12v feed. Enough to get going with and no need yet for terminals and crimpers. I even found a hole in the firewall that had a grommet big enough to run all the wires through.
loosely zip tied, waiting for final terminals and connections before I put split loom on to tidy it up. The other ends are labeled and hanging by the column for testing, on next weeks episode of "Get a Load of the Guy Who Thinks He Can Build a Car!"
Driveline/differential thoughts.
currently the car has 2.49:1 open gearing, and the driveline I have is the right length. Everything fits which is great but the diff isn't gonna be good for any kind of competitive driving. A generous trade offer was made for a center section with 3.50:1 gearing, but it would require a longer driveshaft because ford sucks. And the trade wouldn't be able to happen until meeting in the challenge hotel parking lot. AND that would include the need to tear apart the axle in the parking lot, AFTER what is bound to be a very tiring road trip. So I either need to carry a second driveshaft with me ($$$) or I can rebuild the diff in the car with a mini spool, and either new gears ($270 total) or steal the ones I have from the spare axle for a bit of savings, (still need a rebuild kit (~$100) and spool). Or maybe some other solution presents itself. Idk.
Probably shouldn't worry about it until I can verify it actually runs.
The parts store was good to me. It fits!
The lower will require a trim and a coupling but it'll be good too. One less thing to worry about.
Under hood wiring is complete, minus loom. All that's left before trying to start it is to figure out the ignition switch, install/plumb the fuel pump, and add fluids! Hopefully Saturday! Video will happen, I promise.
So I was foolishly operating on the assumption that the tangle of wires leading up the steering column towards the ignition lock cylinder were also leading up to the ignition switch. Nope. Those 48 wires are just for the turn signals, the cruise control, and horn. The ignition switch lived lower on the column and some idiot must have thrown it out. So things just got simpler, and a little more expensive. Gonna need a generic ignition switch w/key, and depending on what's the cheapest way to go, a start button and a couple switches. All I'm running is the engine, cooling fan, fuel pump, and lights. I'd like to retain the use of the turn signal stalk, and maybe use one of the cruise buttons on the wheel as a starter button. Any suggestions on a decent keyed generic ignition switch that doesn't cost much?
Grab one out of a boat? Used marine stuff is pretty cheap. Otherwise, you're looking for a dash mounted key switch from an older car.
Why key? Three relays and three toggle switches one lights, one ignition an fuel pump, and one starter. Cheap and simple.
In reply to hobiercr (FS) :
We don't have dead boat graveyards out here.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
keyed so it has a semblance of security. No windows, so no locking up, maybe a key provides a little theft protection? This will be a street car that gets driven, and the trip out to FL. Maybe it's not worth worrying about...
In reply to barefootskater :
Hide an extra toggle for pump.
Or, ground the ignition or fuel pump through the cigarette lighter. Use that as the key. Free!
Tractor supply has them in stock cheap. Amazon may have them cheaper
just looked, $8.89 on amazon for a universal keyed ignition switch like i have in the sand rail.
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
There is a Tractor Supply here... thanks!
Duster, I like the cigarette lighter idea, but I don't have one. Literally the only part of the interior that remains is the steering wheel. Dads idea was to have a secret switch somewhere too, but l don't know where to hide anything. It's pretty spartan. We may make a dash board, eventually.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Knowing little about electrics, why relays instead of beefy switches? I just bought a 50a toggle switch and 20' of 12ga wire for another project and it was cheaper than a standard relay.
Honestly. because I don't trust the amp ratings on toggles. Running that much amperage through one makes me nervous.
And a five pin relay is generally free in the junkyard i go to.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) :
Ah. Good reason. Cheap electronics are cheap. I'm pretty comfortable putting a "50a" switch on the cooling fan, for example, especially with a 25a fuse in the line. But that circuit, AND the fuel pump circuit, AND the lighting circuit, AND the ignition stuff...
I suppose this is nothing more than an opportunity to learn more about angry pixie wrangling.
Google 5pin relay wiring diagram. Easy!
With relays you can also save money and weight on heavy gauge wire and heavy duty switches. Skinny wires and tiny toggles to the engine bay, then power the relay from the battery/alternator right Mike?
