Pictures working for me on Google Chrome.

In reply to RossD:

Thank you!

I highly recommend ill advised turbocharging, it's a lot of fun! Be prepared to think it's blown up a lot though. And maybe be right.

For what it's worth to you and all other readers out there, I added it up and to get this thing running with the turbo cost me a tad under $900. I've since somewhat lost track of my budget (most things I'm missing are ancillaries like carb tuning parts & fluids at this point) but my documents tell me that at the start of this month the turbo kit (which had been together for a week or so) cost me $843.80. Some things I maybe didn't need to add, some could have been bought new, but that's what I paid. The big ticket items for me were the Turbo itself ($145), AEM Wideband ($170) and about $200 worth of Jegs brand AN fittings and hose; I got the cheapest non-eBay stuff I could find. This could obviously have been done with parts-store hard line or some more patient swap meet/eBay scores. I didn't have to buy a wastegate or a blow off valve with the set up I chose, so those could be extra on other kits.

Here's another picture uploded with Imgur for your viewing delight.

Vipers, Corvettes, Gto's, oh and look a Shart!

Back on the PCV topic: I have a Volvo that started life NA, but now has a turbo (though it's a little bit more legit than this setup, as the turbo is a bolt-up transplant from a different Volvo). They do run different PCV setups on NA and turbo cars. NA cars run the line to the intake after the MAF, but before the throttle body. Turbo cars run the same line to just after the MAF as well, but that's before the turbo. If you run it to the same spot as an NA car, where there's boost, it'll pressurize the crankcase instead of pulling vacuum on it, and blow out the dipstick (and cause a boost leak).

For your car it should work fine to run that PCV line to your adapter from the carb to turbo. That way the engine will still suck in the crankcase vape, but not pressurize it.

nice mascara on the left front fender

In reply to mck1117:

And I suspect I could have ran it to the carb in traditional fashion, but given the increase in power with boost I wanted the fewest amount of contaminants going into the fuel possible so I opted to vent it to a catch can vs. back into the intake tract.

and about the mascara... yeah she's a little dirty. It's a good thing the paint isn't very nice because it's starting to get permanently stained there.

In addition to about halving emissions for free, running a PCV setup also about doubles the oil life. Just kinda dumping it out is rarely ideal and was considered poor practice by the early 60s. I think for a draw through you'd want it plumbed just like a NA car, a line with a PCV valve running from the valve cover to between the carb and turbo (where there will often be vacuum), and then another plain hose from the valve cover to between the air filter and carb. One (the one without a PCV valve, I think) or both hoses could have a catch can inline to act as an oil separator.

Is a carbon seal not available for the turbo you have? They aren't that difficult to take apart and reassemble.

I call it 'petrol patina' she's alookin agood

you need a sticker.... 'my dart will whip your golf cart'

In reply to BrokenYugo:

I can certainly run the PCV back to the carb as per normal on an N/A motor (which for all the carb knows it is), my fear was that the added oil to the intake will only lessen the octane rating of my fuel and contribute to detonation- something I desperately want to avoid. This with the fact that the turbo is already feeding plenty of oil unnecessary through the intake makes me want to keep everything going to a catch can.

As for the carbon seal that's a tough question, I think I actually found one and a rebuild kit that would cost about $70 together, but I'm not certain the carbon seal will work. I have a Chinese knockoff of a Garrett t3/t4 turbo and the company I called (that quoted me a new turbo) wasn't certain of the manufacturing specifications of the eBay unit vs. a genuine Garrett. I think that is actually my next planned step though- buy the proper seal and rebuild kit and see if I can put it together. I'm loathed to shell out the cash for a brand new turbo... it just doesn't feel right.

I'm glad to hear that the Shart's leaning tower of power didn't go kaboom.... I honestly think that no matter how hard you try you won't be able to blow it up. From the looks of it the Shart is coming along splendidly. As far as the trans are you planning on refreshing the 904 or did you plan on swapping it for something beefier like a 727? Either way this is a damned nice car!

So many bad ideas.... Good thing all my money is tied up or otherwise spoken for for the foreseeable future.

Believe it or not there are people on the wonderful world wide web here who have grenaded slant 6's with boost. One I believe posted in this thread as a matter or fact. I'm hoping that by keeping the tune up modest and the boost low, it will live a long and prosperous life. As for the 904... It should be plenty strong enough, but it's probably going to need a refresher sooner than later. As some cheap insurance I decided to drop the pan and change the filter/fluid this week (it's been raining for over a week straight here in MN), also wanted to do this because these are details that GRM has taught me the virture of and I've often left overlooked on my old junk. So, up on jackstands it went to get some new fluids.

Here's what I was met with when I pulled the trans pan off. Not super encouraging. Filter is quite dirty, and there's a fair amount of gunk in the pan. Some of it looks like old cork gasket material, some of it just looks like clutch material like from a posi unit in a rear end. The fluid was kinda nasty, and the filter was really dirty, so maybe this will help the trans survive?

Here's some X-rated closeups of my tranny's insides.

And here's the scuzz from the bottom of the pan on my gloved fingers.

Any tranny guru's want to chime in and say "Dude you're berkeleyT, that trans is eating itself alive" or "Standard tranny pan gunk, no worries" ? Either way, it's buttoned up and I'll be checking fluid levels and driving it tonight I imagine.

The rear end was fun too, I popped the fill plug and put my finger in there to try and get an idea how full it was before I drained it... well I ended up almost having to touch the bottom of the case before I found any of that lovely gear lube, So I'd say it was due time to change that out as well.

No pictures but I also spent some time last night diagnosing the gas gauge that hasn't worked the entire time I've owned the car.

Let that sink in a minute

I built a custom turbo kit, got it running, road tuned it, almost blew it up, drove it some more... all before even diagnosing a fuel gauge that didn't work. Yep. Boost > Everything.

I'd get a spare trans and build it to V8 specs.

Replace the convertor when you install the trans as it is a giant centrifugal filter.

How bad that transmission is depends on when the last time it was changed. If it accumulated that junk over a long period of time then it's not bad. If it's only been a few thousand miles then you've got problems. If it's shifting OK then I'd say it's probably still got some life left in it. Either way those are easy transmissions to rebuild. I did my first one in high school using a bench vise and a bent up piece of flat stock for a spring compressor.

In reply to APEowner:

As far as I know the fluid has never been changed. The trans still works and doesn't seem to slip so I'm gonna run it for now. I'm thinking I might pull it this winter and try my hand at rebuilding it- I've never monkeyed with automatics at all, and they seem like witchcraft, so it would be fun to learn about it.

That is Minor build up / Sludge Drain what you can /new filter Should be good good good to Go Go.

In reply to GTXVette:

Awesome, thanks!

Love this little shart

Idk, some of those pieces were pretty large, looking at the photo of the pan. But fluid and a filter is cheap/easy enough to be worth a try. Best of luck. You're probably okay.

Gunchsta wrote: Supposedly the trans in her truck went out that same day and she prioritized her newer pickup over the Dart.

Dodgelife

Love what you've done with it. Honestly running that exhaust through the back, even with no muffler would make this thing so stealthy.

Also you transmission pan doesn't look terrible. There's still a little color and the filter looks like it was doing what it was supposed to.

maschinenbau wrote: Idk, some of those pieces were pretty large, looking at the photo of the pan. But fluid and a filter is cheap/easy enough to be worth a try. Best of luck. You're probably okay.

The larger stuff all looked like cork gasket material, I'm not sure why it would have gotten in the pan but that's what it looked like to me. The rest of the gunk was just that real thin clutch-type material scuzz, there weren't really any big chunks of that. And yeah, it wasn't spendy and the trans does actually function so I'm hoping this is one of those things that'll help it live a healthier life until I decide to rebuild it or chuck it.

In reply to crankwalk:

Thanks, I am thinking of running it to the back actually. I like the little bullhorn but it's kinda more racer-y than I want. The problem is that with the draw-through setup I have very little space to run the exhaust since the turbo is mounted backwards (exhaust side facing forwards) of most conventional setups. I don't know if I have the ground clearance to go under the K member; although I have been dreaming of making some kind of 1" x 3" oval tube to go under it then have it go back to standard 2.5" exhaust tubing. I've also looked at running the exhaust up and over the front wheel inside the fenderwell, then back.

We'll see- I'm trying to get the oil consumption to a manageable level before I invest in much else.

In reply to java230:

Thank you!

You could split the exhaust pipe into two smaller pipes, the smaller pipes might be easier to route and have some ground clearance. Also there are pipes that are oval or actual have flat sides, which would give a little more ground clearance. With a turbo you want very free flow exhaust, so large tubing and very little muffler.

Gunchsta wrote: It acts like a 3 speed automatic transmission. It shifts quickly but it gets all 3 gears and seems to stay in them just fine.

[Cornishman] 3 gears - Looxoory! When I was a lad, we used to dream of having 3 gears. No, 2 gears would do us just fine. [/Cornishman]

Seriously, nice score!