One other possible interior issue...
My knees hit the lower dash hard enough to knock things apart. Pretty sure it's just the plastic covers, and that they should snap back in place...
...but my knees still hurt! 
(plus the airbag, of course)
One other possible interior issue...
My knees hit the lower dash hard enough to knock things apart. Pretty sure it's just the plastic covers, and that they should snap back in place...
...but my knees still hurt!
(plus the airbag, of course)
In reply to SVreX :
Has the insurance company yet given you a price to keep the truck?
In my brief experience, the buy-out offer given to the original owner is not always that lucrative. As an example, they may tell you that the buy-out is $2.5k on this truck they value at $4.5k. If that is the case, take the $4.5k and never look back. I think the insurance companies play the owner at the high end of the market where as at auction this truck may only bring $1k.
Take the $4.5k and then if you really want the truck, watch Copart and IAA and buy the truck back for $1k. If you really want to be underhanded, sabotage the truck before turning it over. Pull a big fuse or relay, etc. Another would be to pull a door off the cap. The cap will have value but not if it is incomplete. That way, when you buy it at auction, it sells under value. Are you even required to include the cap?
My experiences... The Q45 #2 which was totaled by hail resulted in a $5k payout to the owner. He was given the price of $2.8k to keep it. He offered me that price but too high for $2k Challenge so we let it go to auction where I bought it for $900.
My Montero. I spoke with the owner after I bought it. State Farm wanted to charge him $1,800 to keep it. I bought it at auction for $1,300.
The Q45 remained an original, not salvage title. The Montero was Salvage that I converted to rebuilt.
Personally, I would like the rear fender flares if you can pull those before the truck leaves!
Fronts would be good too if the front one is not really damaged.
I think John is on track here. At $1800 to one of us, it seems like a reasonable deal, but hard to make money on a flip or fix it so it's nice for cheaper than buying one in good condition. Neither situation is impossible of course, and there's also the value of the pedigree knowing the trans is in great shape, and the value of some of the other parts for a part out. If I had more room that I could either part it out, or take a little more time to fix it up, I'd be all over it, as it is now, I think I'm going to have to pass. Thanks for your time and info Paul. (And John, for the auction advice.)
Oops, I see that the offer was $1,800. I missed that detail.
I don't want to queer any deal. I just wanted to be sure that people knew what they were getting into.
I will say, $1,800 is a good price to a "sure thing", known to run, diesel...if you can get it titled in your state w/o too much hassle.
In reply to John Welsh :
Yup. I've done my homework.
I am not keeping it. It's either going to someone here, or to scrap.
Very interested. Can you PM me (just got around to creating a GRM account and can’t send yet)?
Can you remove the trans on the sneak and ship it to me? Lol
John Welsh said:
I will say, $1,800 is a good price to a "sure thing", known to run, diesel...if you can get it titled in your state w/o too much hassle.
Umm... title is almost irrelevant.
The engine is worth twice that. The trans is almost twice that.
yupididit said:Can you remove the trans on the sneak and ship it to me? Lol
Sure!
(for $1800) 
Or, alternatively, call/text me directly at ***-***-****. Cash in hand :)
In reply to 800rs :
I PMed you. Never heard back.
In reply to SVreX :
Well I'll be darned. Haven't received anything. Shoot me a text?
In reply to 800rs :
Done
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