If you're still interested, I'll find a way to get them. I've been working 16 hour days. Yuck.
If you're still interested, I'll find a way to get them. I've been working 16 hour days. Yuck.
I am interested in the car, and have been for a while. However, as you know, being in So Cal (your old stomping ground), rust will be a deal killer for me. Thus I was awaiting pictures, before wiring you the money 
How much would you be looking for for the T56? I have one in a car I’m gonna sell, but I’d rather leave it in the car!
In reply to 03Panther :
I'm going to throw out $2750 and see what you counter with. 
I'm not easily offended.
mr2s2000elise said:I am interested in the car, and have been for a while. However, as you know, being in So Cal (your old stomping ground), rust will be a deal killer for me. Thus I was awaiting pictures, before wiring you the money
I'll see what I can do with photos and I'll email you
Curtis73 said:Haaa... I've never tried nitrous for that exact reason.
I do have one guy locally (sucker) on the line for $3500. That's more than it's worth, but he really wants an SS. Of course, he's been on the line now for three months so I don't have high expectations.
I'll let you know when I get to $1000.
Someone from here PM'd me to send pics of any rust and I never did.... off to dig through my email. Hard to get pics of underbody when the frame is about 4" off the ground.
a bit late to reply, he found an 86 firebird for $1000 even. rough cosmetics, straight body little to no rust. glws!
I got it up on a lift today. Try this link for pictures and let me know if you can't see them.
Overall, it's better than I remembered. The one rust-through on the body is behind the passenger rear wheel well. The driver's side is not far behind it. Underneath, there is some surface rust, but no flaky stuff on the frame. Control arms both still show good paint. The belly has a little bit of rust, but nothing compromised. Easily within the realm of a good pressure wash or steam clean and some POR.
First $1500 takes it.
Curtis, I hate to be "that guy", but I thought I'd mention I'm very interested in this as a low-effort Challenge car for this year. If you still have it once the self-quarantine rules for leaving and returning to the state for Ohio and Kentucky have loosened up somewhat, I'll check in and see if you still have it. Based on your post, am I correct in assuming it should make the 7 hour drive back home just fine? (barring any unforeseen circumstances). Is the windshield in good shape(no cracks)?
And of course, if you don't want to risk seeing it get gutted for the Challenge, then possibly parted out or turned into a drift missile (in which case the T56 might be nice to have) afterwards, I understand.
In reply to Curtis73 :
$1500 is an awesome price to someone for that car.
Sorry I had missed your reply on the price for the t56... I had also missed that it was a brand new one. I've toyed with the thoughts of parting out the 97 formula I have, but the suggested prices tell me to just unload the car for whatever it will bring! 'Course I do think the guy the said my used t56 was only worth "about tre-fiddy" may have been high... least I hope so! But new, I know I can't afford! Thanks, though.
Tim, i have a good fender and at some point might have a good door. Dad's looking to ditch the body from his roadmonster and put an older pickup on the chassis ala the p71 under f100 deals and roady/chevy front doors interchange
In reply to Patrick :
It looks like Curtis may already have good replacements, but if I get this and he doesn’t, I’ll let you know. Depending on what could be sold easily, I might be doing zero bodywork on it, due to budget limits.
I do have good original GM fenders and driver's door from a low-mile Caprice. No rust, no dents. Not from a woody, but they are tan so they'll need to be painted to match. They are included in the deal. The passenger fender that is on the car is fine, but early in its life it got a parking lot ding and it has a little bondo. I had the whole parts Caprice, so I just grabbed both fenders, but you don't need to replace the passenger side.
Strangely enough, I also have a set of aftermarket fenders that you can have as well. I have a bunch of bits I kept from over the years and from that Caprice; headlight buckets, air pump from a wagon with airbags, an ugly dash cover somewhere... it even has the factory spare, but I don't know that I would trust it.
I have actually been driving it quite a bit recently while I do little things to the DD truck. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it 7 hours. The brand new exhaust I had put on was installed... um... inexpensively, so the tailpipes touch the bumper. No drivability issues, just a little annoying when you hit a bump and it rattles.
One thing I have noticed that certainly isn't a big issue, but full disclosure because it's how I roll: I think the flexplate might have a wee warp to it. Every once in a while the starter wouldn't properly engage the teeth. I got under there last year and realized the starter snout had cracked. This made sense because a couple years back I had an old, bad spark plug misfiring causing occassional kickback. I replaced the starter, but it still (maybe every third time I hit the key) doesn't engage properly. It ALWAYS starts, just not always the first time you hit the key. This, to me, says that maybe the ignition kickback maybe put a tweak on the flexplate. Either that or I got a bum starter.
That was a long way of saying: it always starts, but it may need a flexplate in the future. If you're going the T56 route in the future, fuggeddaboutit.
If you want my kick-ass T56 in the future, we'll talk. That was a purchase I made years ago. I got the T56 from a custom shop where the customer paid for a new TNET1247 Viper trans to put in his custom, then [insert sob story] never finished the project. It was brand new with factory tags when I bought it. Never installed, never had fluid in it. I took it to Inland driveline where they put an LT1 input shaft and front plate on it, and bored out a GM tailshaft to keep the Viper's monster output shaft. I might be able to russle up a shifter for it, but I think it's a Mustang shifter. Nothing special. I bought it when I was making killer money, then lost the job and moved, then divorced, then yadda yadda. I have lots tied up in that trans, but if you want it maybe we can make a deal.
I think the rest is in the thread.
I'll try posting this link to an autocheck report. Let me know if you can't see it.
It shows one reported accident. There are actually two: The one that caused the damage you see on the driver's side, and the aforementioned dent on the passenger fender.
It shows two owners, which is kinda true. I bought it new in 96, then somewhere around 2004 I needed money, (about the same time I abandoned the T56 project) so dad "bought" it from me (meaning, it sat in his garage for 3 years and he "drove it to get the cobwebs out of it" once in a while), then I bought it back when money wasn't so tight. I would be shocked if 5000 miles of that odometer reading wasn't with my butt in the driver's seat. My ex wife hated driving it.
If anyone wants to PM me, I can give you my number and we'll chat about it.
eastsideTim said:Curtis, I hate to be "that guy", but I thought I'd mention I'm very interested in this as a low-effort Challenge car for this year. If you still have it once the self-quarantine rules for leaving and returning to the state for Ohio and Kentucky have loosened up somewhat, I'll check in and see if you still have it. Based on your post, am I correct in assuming it should make the 7 hour drive back home just fine? (barring any unforeseen circumstances). Is the windshield in good shape(no cracks)?
And of course, if you don't want to risk seeing it get gutted for the Challenge, then possibly parted out or turned into a drift missile (in which case the T56 might be nice to have) afterwards, I understand.
Correct, windshield is good and not cracked. Even has recent wiper blades.
I have always believed that the car belongs to the current owner. I actually had thoughts of gutting it, going widebody, and putting some livery on it with a roll cage. If you buy it, I give you permission to douse it in gasoline and set fire to it. It would be yours.
I don't get rid of cars lightly. If I'm selling something it's like a divorce. I have to be certain I don't want it anymore or that I won't want it back later. I've been talking about selling it for 4 years now. I'm ready.
I will want a ride in it after it's challenge prepped, though 
So hurry up and buy it so I can get my Jag XJR 
Correct, windshield is good and not cracked. Even has recent wiper blades.
I have always believed that the car belongs to the current owner. I actually had thoughts of gutting it, going widebody, and putting some livery on it with a roll cage. If you buy it, I give you permission to douse it in gasoline and set fire to it. It would be yours.
I don't get rid of cars lightly. If I'm selling something it's like a divorce. I have to be certain I don't want it anymore or that I won't want it back later. I've been talking about selling it for 4 years now. I'm ready.
I will want a ride in it after it's challenge prepped, though
So hurry up and buy it so I can get my Jag XJR
I like your thinkin', Sir!
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
I had intended to look for something lighter and smaller for the Challenge, but this is way cooler than any other serious ideas I've had. Not to mention, it'd be Radwood approved. Looks like May 1st is the final day of the Ohio order, so if you haven't got it sold by then, and I haven't distracted myself with another shiny thing, I'll need to plan a road trip. Hoping wae will be able to join in on the insanity, but he's at the mercy of the Kentucky governor.
In reply to eastsideTim :
I am in 100% so long as Governor Andy says it's okay to move about the cabin!
If there is a need to sell, I am your man. I am always on the hunt for cheap cars I thought we were awesome in high school or anything weird or oddball that appeals to me. I have had some good ones over the years. 87 Mazda MX-6 GT 4WS, 1975 Mercedes 240D, 04 Volvo S60R, 2000 Saab Viggen, 2008 Saab Aero XWD.
While I am working with more of a budget than I was in high school bagging groceries I work at an automotive shop and it's slow due to current events. If there is some wiggle room in the 1500 number let me know and I think we can put this together. I have a repair plate, a buddy who I can drag along who likes this sort of adventure as much as I do and a lot of free time in the next few weeks.
Jimmi
In reply to Jimithin7000 :
No problem. Tim absolutely has first dibs, but if he changes his mind I'll let you know.
Not really wiggle room at this point. I'm already selling about $3000 worth of car and parts for $1500, but we'll cross that bridge if we get to it.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:eastsideTim said:Curtis, I hate to be "that guy", but I thought I'd mention I'm very interested in this as a low-effort Challenge car for this year. If you still have it once the self-quarantine rules for leaving and returning to the state for Ohio and Kentucky have loosened up somewhat, I'll check in and see if you still have it. Based on your post, am I correct in assuming it should make the 7 hour drive back home just fine? (barring any unforeseen circumstances). Is the windshield in good shape(no cracks)?
And of course, if you don't want to risk seeing it get gutted for the Challenge, then possibly parted out or turned into a drift missile (in which case the T56 might be nice to have) afterwards, I understand.
Correct, windshield is good and not cracked. Even has recent wiper blades.
I have always believed that the car belongs to the current owner. I actually had thoughts of gutting it, going widebody, and putting some livery on it with a roll cage. If you buy it, I give you permission to douse it in gasoline and set fire to it. It would be yours.
I don't get rid of cars lightly. If I'm selling something it's like a divorce. I have to be certain I don't want it anymore or that I won't want it back later. I've been talking about selling it for 4 years now. I'm ready.
I will want a ride in it after it's challenge prepped, though
So hurry up and buy it so I can get my Jag XJR
I'm gonna just leave this here.
eastsideTim said:In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
I had intended to look for something lighter and smaller for the Challenge, but this is way cooler than any other serious ideas I've had. Not to mention, it'd be Radwood approved. Looks like May 1st is the final day of the Ohio order, so if you haven't got it sold by then, and I haven't distracted myself with another shiny thing, I'll need to plan a road trip. Hoping wae will be able to join in on the insanity, but he's at the mercy of the Kentucky governor.
I was surprised enough by how my fellow SS friends were doing at autoX in these whales that I started setting mine up for it. One of our more seasoned members consistently beat a C4 RS with a less-experienced guy at the wheel. The brakes and front suspension geometry are pretty good on the B-body. I haven't raced it, but it feels very neutral to me. Tiny bits of understeer in normal driving, but predictable and progressive oversteer.
I had 20" wheels (chrome rimzzz) on it for a hot second, but that proved to be white-knuckled. The difference between grip and slip was about as long as it took to say, "hey, look at that ditch!" If I were to do it again I would do 18s or maybe an 18/19 stagger.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
First year of the aluminum body (and first year of the ZF in the XJR instead of the Mercedes 722.6) Not a deal breaker, especially at that price. For that much I can buy a $5000 reman ZF and roll the dice.
Somewhere out there is an X308 Super V8 with my name on it, but only about 300 of those ever came to the states.
I'm glad you're too far away.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Jimithin7000 :
No problem. Tim absolutely has first dibs, but if he changes his mind I'll let you know.
Thanks! I'm really hoping the self-quarantine order does not get extended, so I can grab it in early May - I'm thinking May 2nd would be pretty doable for me and either wae or someone from Ohio if he's still trapped in the commonwealth. If you end up needing to sell it to get cash before then, I won't be offended at all.
For the Challenge, I'd be likely sticking with stock wheels, unless I pull off some miraculous selloffs. The question would be whether they have drag radials, 200TW tires, or Hoosier A7s on them. I've already got a nitrous kit that would put my remaining budget down around $160, which would hopefully cover paint and a few incidentals. That is assuming I'm willing to put the 4L60E through some nitrous abuse...
It has never missed a shift yet. I used to run transmission repair shops, so it got frequent fluid and filter changes. I also have the PCM defaulting to higher pressure for a bit firmer shifts. Can't really notice much at WOT since it defaults to full then anyway, but it is firmer during normal driving.
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