Anyone know AE-86's

Yeah, I know...I can't make up my mind. I thought I wanted to Sim Race for a while but a few of you guys have got the wheels turning in my head. I have been eyeing this car for the past year, and it might just be within my budget. Does anyone know anything about these?

Watch out for rust, lots of.

Also check that it is an AE86 and not one of the lesser models...

They are awesome and you need one. Especially if it's cheap, but that's getting harder to do.

They make great Tofu and/or Pizza delivery vehicles, too.

This in an SR-5...Not sure what year. I haven't talked to the guy yet. I just know that they are light and rear drive...2 very big bonuses.

If the owner refers to the car as an AE86, then he knows (thinks he knows) what he has and will want too much money.
If the owner calls it a Corolla 2dr then you can likely pick it up cheap.
If you do pick it up cheap, you can then list it as an AE86 and charge far more than it is worth.

jrw1621 wrote: If the owner refers to the car as an AE86, then he knows (thinks he knows) what he has and will want too much money. If the owner calls it a Corolla 2dr then you can likely pick it up cheap. If you do pick it up cheap, you can then list it as an AE86 and charge far more than it is worth.

That's not the first time I have heard that. Checked the AE-86 forums a while back and seen models such as this for $2K....Crazy.

BoxheadTim wrote: Watch out for rust, lots of. Also check that it is an AE86 and not one of the lesser models...

SR5 and GT-S had the same chassis in North America and are both "AE86es". An SR5 with a drivetrain and suspension (springs, dampers, sway bar?) swap from a GT-S is essentially a GT-S. No need to worry there.

What do you want to know?

They're light (2200 lbs or less), RWD cars. McPherson strut front, live-axle rear. (4-link). Coupes are lighter than hatches, hatches have slightly better weight balance, though both are right around 50/50. VERY popular with drifters, and as such the prices are artificially inflated, at least on the west coast.

SR5s have a carbureted, single-cam 4A-C. Rear is a 6.38" diff, all are open, with 3.90 gears. Spools can be found though a company called Dwarf Racing Products.

GT-Ss use the 4A-GE. Diff is the larger unit shared with the Celica and there was an optional LSD. 4.30 gears (not fun on the highway) Springs are 20% stiffer than SR5s, elsewise all suspension is identical. Seats are significantly better than the folding chairs in the SR5.

I had an SR5 that I pulled out the A/C and converted to manual steering. Was the most fun car I've ever had, I'm sorry I got rid of it.

Thanks ReverendDexter that was a lot of info I didn't know. That makes me want it that much more. Any advice other than rust to look for when buying it? What if it is an Auto? Is a swap hard?

That car should have the 3TC engine in it. I know that the GT-S disc brake rear is nearly impossible to find at this point.

I can't imagine that it would be, but I honestly can't answer that question. I can tell you that all manual AE86s use the same tranny (T50), so you should be able to find swap parts fairly easy.

I can't imagine how not-fun one of these would be with an automatic, though.

Woody wrote: That car should have the 3TC engine in it. I know that the GT-S disc brake rear is nearly impossible to find at this point.

Nope. The 3T-C was used in the previous bodystyle. WHen they went to this one, they all went A-block (hence AE86, not TE86). And even if they still used the T-block, as these are 2-door, it would've had a 2T-C (3Ts were used in wagons and "luxury" models)

Though I did forget about the brakes - GT-Ss have disc rear, SR-5s have drum.

So, I guess the question would be...If I paid 200-300 for it, would I have gotten a good deal?...Even if it has an auto?

For $300, I'd've bought it already, provided it wasn't totally rusty.

Even if its rusty, it would make a good locost donor.

Cool, any other obvious stuff I should look for? Any week links I need to know about? BTW, thanks for all the info.

ReverendDexter wrote:

Woody wrote: That car should have the 3TC engine in it. I know that the GT-S disc brake rear is nearly impossible to find at this point.

Nope. The 3T-C was used in the previous bodystyle. WHen they went to this one, they all went A-block (hence AE86, not TE86). And even if they still used the T-block, as these are 2-door, it would've had a 2T-C (3Ts were used in wagons and "luxury" models) Though I did forget about the brakes - GT-Ss have disc rear, SR-5s have drum.

I pulled a 3TC out of an '84 SR5 that I used as a Locost donor. It may have been swapped in but it sure looked like it was original. I wonder if the 3TC made it into the first year AE86's?

For $300, you will have got a hell of a steal even with some rust. Whip out a welder and get to fixing.

I checked on the AE-86 forums and someone told me to offer $200. I think that will be my first try.

That 3T-C was likely swapped. The 4A-C is pretty unloved (though I liked mine once I pulled all the crap off that was bogging it down), and a 3T-C swap would be considerably easier than a 4A-GE swap.

ReverendDexter wrote: That 3T-C was likely swapped. The 4A-C is pretty unloved (though I liked mine once I pulled all the crap off that was bogging it down), and a 3T-C swap would be considerably easier than a 4A-GE swap.

I am an idiot. My car had a 4A-C.

Hahaha, it's cool, man.

Can a 4AG-E head be swapped onto a 4A-C block?

Woody wrote: Can a 4AG-E head be swapped onto a 4A-C block?

Can, but you probably wouldn't want to. I forget the specifics, but the -GE motors had something different with their internals, maybe oil squirters, I know later -GEs had stronger blocks (something with rib count... I think 7 rib vs 3 rib).

Figure the 4A-C was designed to operate under 5500 rpm, the 4A-GE was designed to hit at least 7500.

I've seen the reverse done, where someone put a -GE block under a 4A-C. I think you can find more info at Paradise Racing. They're one of the few (only?) companies that makes 4A-C hop-up parts.

jlm_photo wrote: I checked on the AE-86 forums and someone told me to offer $200. I think that will be my first try.

That's because they want you to lowball him so they can come back later and make a better offer.

That's a great chassis and can be built to compete in many different classes of auto-x.