Best inline 4 with rwd potential for under $800

itsarebuild said:

the Mercedes option was also intriguing. Same questions as the duratec. Would that fit in a Miata bay?

Here's the best I can give you;

- Distance between frame rails- 29"

- engine length including pulley - 24.5"

- engine height from floor pan to top of head- 26.5" (obviously there's wiggle room there as I cannot provide exact height)

I'm going to use RUS EFI because there's a write-up of someone elses build, and he's providing wiring, etc, details....

https://stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?103006-W201-Die-Reiser-Build

OH, and this engine, OEM, has more than 190hp with the supercharger! If you choose to switch to a turbo to help with packaging/ultimate power, you already know that the factory ECU can manage the switch in boost generators (up to 14psi???). It's kinda' a no-brainer.

In reply to Matt B (fs) :

The BEAMS is drive by wire, so you need an e-pedal.  They have two separate position sensors for redundancy, that run at different voltages for error checking purposes.  Some pedals have the sensors wired such that one rises and the other falls and the sum of both outputs is always the same, others both rise but at different rates or different starting points (or both) and the computer does a bit more math.  The computer will be unhappy with anything but the correct pedal.

Edit: Altezza is drive by wire, but some poking around has transverse engines with cable throttles.

miata B series or Ecotec...  If you want cheap and reliability.  

Boost can take the power where you want..  Ecotec has the power advantage without boost..

Ford Zetec's are also popular overseas for swapping and easyish to get parts here.

edit:  forgot the duratec... 177 hp stock.. found in fusions in every junkyard..  a little work and you're at 200hp

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

In reply to Matt B (fs) :

The BEAMS is drive by wire, so you need an e-pedal.  They have two separate position sensors for redundancy, that run at different voltages for error checking purposes.  Some pedals have the sensors wired such that one rises and the other falls and the sum of both outputs is always the same, others both rise but at different rates or different starting points (or both) and the computer does a bit more math.  The computer will be unhappy with anything but the correct pedal.

 

Edit: Altezza is drive by wire, but some poking around has transverse engines with cable throttles.

Well I'll be damned, it is drive-by-wire.  That said, I've never seen anybody address the pedal issue in their swap documentation so I did some poking around.  This guy states that the Accelerator Pedal Position sensor (APP) is actually located in the throttle body instead of the pedal with the BEAMS, which may explain why I haven't seen the issue come up before.  He mentions a method in there to convert it to 100% mechanical.  I'll caveat that I obviously haven't done this swap before and I have no idea how accurate his information is.

In reply to Matt B (fs) :

Wow, that IS bizarre!  

I don't really agree with the writer of that article regarding ITBs... They aren't for max power, and often make quite a bit less power than a good plenum manifold can make.  Where they do excel is in throttle response, and if you have a rowdy cam, low output drivability.

Bike power is what I'd do. Cheap, f1 tech, lightweight, sequential six speed included (also light a/f), easy to get running (fairly simple harness), crazy compact, plentiful.... on and on. 

Sooooo, did you come to a decision? 

MotorsportsGordon said:

there are  4 cylinder engines in both generation of Chevrolet Colorado's and gmc canyons make around 170 to 200 hp stock. Not the highest reving engines though.

The 2.9 is an easy 200hp stock, will rev to 6500 all day and you can probably get the motor, trans and computer in your budget

The later 2.5 is probably a better choice but probably not cheap

In reply to 2GRX7 :

If you are asking me the answer is still no. But there are some interesting options here I didn’t consider. I need to find a couple benzes and crammits in the junkyard for measurements. Truck motors are great options except for intake height. .... but finding a running example of a Colorado pick up in the southeast for a good price is pretty difficult

How space-limited are we talking? A BMW M52 is only 2" longer than a Nissan SR20.

Seems to be mostly height. Think about an engine bay 1” to 2” lower than a stock Miata.