Carbide burr for aluminum? Which ones are better?

So, after many distractions, obligations, and other delays, im back to porting. 

I realized my go-to burrs are quite dull, and need to be replaced. After only one cylinder head, and a little intake work. This seems unacceptably short lived. However, i don't recall taking any significant measures to lubricate them to try to make them live longer like i do with drill bits.

Regardless, these were the sets i grabbed last time. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0875T6B82?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DCNCDFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Im using a dremel clone, finishing with sandpaper. I seem to like the tic-tac shaped ones the best and use them the most. 

Is there something better in a bit i should be getting? Or is it just a case of cheap consumables are consumed? Something more geared to aluminum and dremel use for this?

Buy better burrs. I used to do a fair bit of porting, between 6-10 heads a month, and I'd get a good season out of a burr.

I used more aggressive burrs and was probably paying double what you're paying for a set for one burr.

I use something like this.

Neither of those you linked are what you want. Aluminum you need single cut burrs, the double cuts work great on steel but will gum up in seconds on aluminum

These have been good to me for aluminum.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074SHHB39?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_V35YRR4KAXKNY1JR6QCJ

Ok if you plan to do more than ons, get the headgames ones. They cut my porting time by 75%

I do plan to do a few more from here, so stepping up my game is definitely an option. But gotta be budget friendly and 1/8 shank. 

Spray WD-40 on the burr, it will cut down on build up during cutting.

How is flow going to be measured to determine whether it's been improved - or not?

In reply to kb58 :

Eyeball. Im cleaning up flash and ridges primarily. 

Do you have air to run a die grinder? I've got a couple gathering rust if you want to step up up 1/4 shank bits.

In reply to EvanB :

Unfortunately not enough air for that kind of tool. Thanks though!

Burrs are like saw blades, coarse for hogging out and fine for finish work.  If you spin the burr into a piece of chalk, that will fill the kerf and keep the burr from getting loaded up with hot aluminum that you get to dig out later.

I was sitting there chewing up aluminum about ten years ago, I think I was modifying some LS3 heads so a supercharger would bolt on under a lip on the heads, or vice-versa, and got told to use gear oil as a cutting fluid.

I was deeply impressed.  I stopped clogging the burr, even though I was using a burr made for iron, and the aluminum literally was cutting like butter.  Plus I like the smell of hot gear oil.

I have a whole lot of aluminum burrs now that I no longer seem to do any aluminum porting.  They'd show up on the tool trucks' sale flyer and I'd say, ooh I don't have any (6" shank, 2" shank, etc) I'll buy those.

Any particular gear oil spec?

You love the smell of hot gear oil, Pete?  That ain't right! 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

I do plan to do a few more from here, so stepping up my game is definitely an option. But gotta be budget friendly and 1/8 shank. 

 

What tool are you using with 1/8" shank?

In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :

Dremel. (Clone made by wen)

Dusterbd13-michael said:

In reply to kb58 :

Im cleaning up flash and ridges primarily. 

These seem like pretty minor alterations. Can this be done with sanding cones to avoid going too far, too fast?

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Ever considered an electric 1/4" die grinder? I got one from the hammer store some years back, and it's been fine for my uses. Lots more power than air. Gotta be careful though, it doesn't stop real quick like and air die grinder!

Any gear oil works, I prefer the really sticky Lucas stuff but this is completely unfounded by scientific data.  You know, the oil in the parts store counter hand crank fidget device.

I have an electric die grinder and it is DANGEROUS.  I still use it mind you but it is full speed or off, no nuance.  And it has a rocker switch instead of a paddle, so if a 6" burr grabs and bends a little, it will quickly turn into a right angle bend and the grinder will be shaking so hard you can't reach the switch to turn it off and have to kick the cord out of the wall outlet.

I have multi speed Dremels, too, but good burrs for those are impossible to find.

I got some quite good 1/8 shank solid carbide burrs from McMaster, about $10. each.  Bee's wax is the old time machinist's go to for burrs and saw blades in aluminum. Other important note for the carbide, Do not cool it abruptly. Lube before you dig in, and let the burr get cool enough to touch every time you come out of the kerf to re-lube.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Wire a light dimmer inline to control the speed. I lost power to my shop one winter and wasn't going to be able to get it back quickly. So I ran the shop off a generator not big enough to power a compressor. And I had to get heads out the door