Sidebar question. Let's say I replace the factory hard line that runs from right front disc to left front disc. The factory line was 48" and instal a line that's 60". Will that cause a braking issue ?
Sidebar question. Let's say I replace the factory hard line that runs from right front disc to left front disc. The factory line was 48" and instal a line that's 60". Will that cause a braking issue ?
Hydraulically no, needs to be secure and not contact or interfere w/other components.
In reply to ultraclyde:
Be generous w/ your bends and routing and you can make it look factory like. No issues w/ a longer line.
excellent. I've replaced almost every component on the front brakes trying to eliminate a pad drag. I don't think it's the line (southern, no rust) but I'm almost to the point of doing it just to check the box. Don't really want to buy tools and learn flaring for one line, but I think I can find an oversize line and make it work if it comes to that.
If the line is not kinked, crushed or flattened, it will not cause pad drag. The caliper piston is pulled back by the square cut seal in the caliper when it resumes it's shape after hydraulic pressure is reduced. If the piston is not moving because of rust or pitting caused by old brake fluid or torn boot it will not move back. If the caliper sliders, shims, pins, or bridge bolts are dirty, corroded or seized the caliper will not move away from rotor causing drag. Inside and outside pad wear should be equal and even top to bottom. Use the pad wear to assist in diagnosing cause. There is always slight pad drag.
Thanks outasite, but BTDT. It's a long story you can read here in another thread. Basically, I'm down to problem with the line or turning the rotors. Neither of which makes any sense.
I have found brake shoe linings that were over sized and the drums had to be turned. (Never pads) If you have not done so, check rotor thickness, if dragging side is thicker, remove pad material (if you have not tried this or resurface rotors. (check minimum thickness)
When using prefab lines, if it's a little too long you can just make a ~3" dia coil wherever.
On turning rotors, if you can compress the piston enough to get a 0.010" or bigger feeler between the pad and rotor, I don't see that being the problem.
Disregard my previous comment. I forgot the miles you have driven since installing pads and calipers.
Didn'the read the entire thread but were the flex lines replaced? Hoses can look fine outside but swell up inside, they can pass fluid on pressure but may not allow fluid to return. Happened to me w/ AC VW.
You'll need to log in to post.
