JacktheRiffer
JacktheRiffer Reader
9/28/14 10:05 a.m.

If I build a strut bar do i need to have holes in the mounting plates to access thetop of the struts or could it be a solid plate?

trucke
trucke HalfDork
9/28/14 10:19 a.m.

If the strut does not protrude above the plane where the plate will sit and you do not need access to make adjustments to the strut, then you would not need a hole there. Cutting the hole does make the unit lighter if weight is a consideration, and it usually is if you are trying to add stiffness.

JacktheRiffer
JacktheRiffer Reader
9/28/14 10:50 a.m.

My only problem is that if I were to put a hole in the plate im usure how to go about it.

fasted58
fasted58 PowerDork
9/28/14 11:10 a.m.

hole saw

JacktheRiffer
JacktheRiffer Reader
9/28/14 11:31 a.m.

If I dont have access to a big enough hole saw whats the next best choice? If I went solid would it still be stiff enough?

iceracer
iceracer PowerDork
9/28/14 12:05 p.m.

Ace Hardware has lots of hole saws.

Wouldn't it be easier just to buy one.

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
9/28/14 12:07 p.m.

How much engine clearance do you have?

I have successfully welded a piece of tubing from the side of the tower to the side of the opposite tower, which eliminated the need to engineer a top mount bracket, but it is pretty rare that you would have enough space for this.

The next best choice (with no hole saw), is a jig saw with a pilot hole.

JacktheRiffer
JacktheRiffer Reader
9/28/14 12:12 p.m.

Its actually going in the rear of a 280zx. So there is alot of space

fasted58
fasted58 PowerDork
9/28/14 12:25 p.m.

A 2" hole saw w/ arbor should be around $15, less for smaller sizes. Lowes, HD, etc.

Drill slow and keep the hole saw and work piece cool w/ water or WD. If you see smoke you're going too fast. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" Magnum for low speeds and torque or a drill press set to slowest speed. Goes through 1/4" steel w/ no problem.

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
9/28/14 12:29 p.m.
JacktheRiffer wrote: Its actually going in the rear of a 280zx. So there is alot of space

Then just weld to the sides and be done.

Or, make a plate and bolt it, if you want it to be removable.

ebonyandivory
ebonyandivory SuperDork
9/28/14 5:03 p.m.

1.5" square tubing welded between the towers?

JacktheRiffer
JacktheRiffer Reader
9/28/14 10:33 p.m.

Turns out the family mechanic will let me borrow his plasma cutter to make plates for it. Yay for removable strut bar.

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk SuperDork
9/29/14 5:57 a.m.

The last one I built was made with some tubing I had laying around and two bearing retainer plates that I bought at Tractor Supply. The retainer plates have a large center hole and come in several sizes for not a lot of money.

chrispy
chrispy Reader
9/29/14 8:29 a.m.

VW guys would use square tubing and u bolts, no welding; a DIY version of this:

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
9/29/14 10:03 a.m.
chrispy wrote: VW guys would use square tubing and u bolts, no welding; a DIY version of this:

Well it's better than nothing, but by how much?

I'd recommend copying this design. There will be welding though:

http://simtecmotorsports.com/product/datsunnissan-280zx-rear-strut-tower-brace-and-shoulder-harness-bar/

DeadSkunk
DeadSkunk SuperDork
9/29/14 11:54 a.m.

In reply to GameboyRMH:
I had one like that in my GTI years ago and it made a very noticeable difference . Tightened the car right up.

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