Gurus of E36s looking to you here. I
I bought a 318ti fairly recently (Link), and it came with 2 distinct keys for door/ignition. But the ignition-only key was the plastic/valet key. It also needs to be inserted, turned until resistance, pull out a little bit, then keep turning and wiggle it back forwards - after that, the car will start!
Now, after moving it to street parking to get another car in the driveway, I can't get the key to work anymore.
I had planned to replace key (duh, can't use plastic forever), and ignition cylinder as well, just to ensure I'll have two sets of matched parts.
Does this seem like it would solve the problem? Or is there some underlying, common issue that I'm missing?
Secondarily, all the videos I've seen show the necessity of turning the key to being able to actually release the ignition cylinder. If I can't turn the key, is there any decent way for me to get that cylinder out?
find someone parting a car, buy their column and keys. maybe even buy their door locks. but don't give them your address, because they will steal your car using their spare keys.
Well, the guy I bought the whole interior from is nearby and selling that. haha. But that would disqualify me from getting any future spare keys, as I couldn't prove his VIN
In reply to classicJackets :
so get him to include a copy of the registration, and go get spare keys now. jeez, do i have to solve *all* the world's problems?
Haha, he has the title in the previous owner's name and is sending the car to scrap after, so there isn't and won't be registration in his name.
The world is out to make its problems difficult to solve today!
In reply to classicJackets :
how many keys are you going to wear out?
Call Terrance at Erhard BMW Farmington Hills, 248.669.3056. he's a reasonable guy. ask him if a photocopy of the title is sufficient proof of ownership.
I'm going to be at BMW Performance Center next week. I will ask my guys there if they have an inside track.
How worn is the plastic key? New key+tired lock often won't operate smoothly, with more conventional keys a good locksmith can cut the wear into it, IDK about BMW.
AngryCorvair said:
In reply to classicJackets :
how many keys are you going to wear out?
Call Terrance at Erhard BMW Farmington Hills, 248.669.3056. he's a reasonable guy. ask him if a photocopy of the title is sufficient proof of ownership.
I'm going to be at BMW Performance Center next week. I will ask my guys there if they have an inside track.
Awesome, thank you. I'll give him a call. It seems like a photocopy of a title + Driver's license with same address is the typical requirement.
BrokenYugo, I think this plastic key has been in use for quite a while. It's got some wear to it. I would prefer to replace both cylinder and key, but at this point I'm not even sure how to get the cylinder out since the key won't spin it forward to allow access to the "release" with a bobby pin
First thing I'd do is just call a dealer with the VIN and have a new key made for your lock cyclinder.
If it doesn't work, look to replace stuff. You can get the lock cyclinder out without a key, but it requires dropping the column a bit and removing some torque to yeild bolts with a chisel. (I had an e36 with the spinning ignition key).
If that's a conventional lock cylinder, and I seem to recall that it is, then a couple of seconds with a slide hammer will completely eliminate the need for a key and also allow you to use the pin release to remove the rest of the lockset.
Dealer just needs to photocopy title/registration and my license, and they can have key next day (if I'm in by 3) for $70. Honestly, better and easier than I expected. I'll figure out getting the ignition cylinder out after, if I need to
Interesting twist to the story - I got my replacement key in today, and it matches the door key... not the ignition key. So.. Someone, at some point in the past, swapped the ignition cylinder and went to the plastic valet key..?
I can't really put two and two together, but I think my next step is to order the ignition cylinder/switch..? Do I need to be concerned that the chip in the new key won't work, given that it's a totally different cut (and presumably chip inside) than the key that's been used to start the ignition?
I received my new ignition switch, and in the meantime lost the valet key that drove the old one. If anyone here has good advice on removing the ignition switch/tumbler without permanently destroying the housing I'm all ears. Don't care if the lock gets destroyed (and have actually started that process already), just want to get the ignition switch out so I can put the new, correct one in!