Fiero V8 for 2012

That transaxle looks like the Isuzu 5-speed that came with the 4-cylinder Fiero. If you can fit it in the budget, swap it out for a 5-speed Getrag 282, or a 4-speed Muncie. The Isuzu is notoriously weak. If you keep it, you are going to strip the teeth off 2nd gear at the challenge. They all do it, even with just a couple hundred ft-lbs of torque. This was mine, back when my 3.4 DOHC was making stock power (~180 ft-lbs at the wheels)

Even a high mileage 282 will work fine; it won't shift into 1st very well since the syncros will be worn, but it won't break.

I agree that the Muncie is a better trans, but the budget is nearing the redline as it is. The current trans has been living there for a while, so it's either really lucky, or about to blow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I was going to recommend a Beretta / Grand Am brake conversion since the prices on Fiero brake hardware are sky-high, but it looks like you already have vented rotors off of something in there.

If you don't like your pedal feel an S-10 or blazer master cylinder bolts up once you switch over reservoirs, the blazer unit has a bit more rear bias than the S-10 unit IIRC and tends to work better in the rear heavy Fiero.

psychic_mechanic wrote: I was going to recommend a Beretta / Grand Am brake conversion since the prices on Fiero brake hardware are sky-high, but it looks like you already have vented rotors off of something in there. If you don't like your pedal feel an S-10 or blazer master cylinder bolts up once you switch over reservoirs, the blazer unit has a bit more rear bias than the S-10 unit IIRC and tends to work better in the rear heavy Fiero.

He has an 88, so it had vented rotors from the factory. The 88 Fiero brakes are about the same as the Beretta/Grand Am brakes as far as performance goes.

An easy performance upgrade for the 88s is to redrill some C4 Corvette rotors to 5x100, make some centering rings, and some 3/8" steel brackets to move the calipers out to fit the new larger rotor diameter (12" vs the 10" or 10.5" the 88 Fieros had from the factory).

Gearheadotaku wrote: I agree that the Muncie is a better trans, but the budget is nearing the redline as it is. The current trans has been living there for a while, so it's either really lucky, or about to blow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Avoid shock-loading 2nd gear (or avoid using it at all if possible). Even wheel hop in 2nd will probably shatter the gears.

i hate you, your making me want to swap a ls1 in my Mr2 lol

well 6+ weeks later and I've finally gotten it on the road. Missed 2 autocrosses for testing, but will make one this weekend! Got the suspension sorted out and aligned. The springs I ordered didn't work so I had to make a new plan. A quick fab job on some rear mounts got it all together. I now have the original front sprints on the back and a pair of 87 GT springs cut down and mounted in the front. Sounds goofy but its working. the interior is back together and most of the body is done save for some trim bits. Had to build a heat shield for the trunk, it was so hot inside you would burn yourself on the metal!

Now for the main issue. It doesn't like to rev above 3k. misses, pops, bangs. Got a scanner on it (finally) and it's running lean, worse when you rev it. Unplug the oxygen sensor to trigger open loop and it gets better. (yes, I spent the bucks on a new O2)

ideas?

To recap, the ECM, TBI unit, wiring, and dist are from a 1995 350 Chevy truck.

Time for a much overdue update.

Running issue has been solved. The cam jumped time. Fresh timing set and all seems well. The battery / electrical problem from back then has been fixed too. Disassembled and cleaned the starter, cleaned all the charging/starting wiring contacts, and replaced to positive cable with a 1/0.

Finally made it to an autocross and it handles pretty well. It oversteers of course, but it's surprisingly controllable.

How do I move this to the build thread section?

"Finally made it to an autocross and it handles pretty well. It oversteers of course, but it's surprisingly controllable. "

More rear camber than you think you need will help the oversteer. You'll have to file out the holes in the rear strutts to get it.

Why do you have a 6" gap between the tires and the front fenders?

the tires are shorter than stock, (45 vs 60 series) but I didn't lower the car much in order to preserve the suspension geometry. Also the camera angle happens to be just right to embellish the gap.

the only car I miss (of the plethora of ones I have owned) is my 1988 fiero GT with Rear wing deleted.

nice, man, nice