Long bed. Photos make it look compleet. Some rust over the rear wheels. The cab looks solid.
Truck runs but I was told I needs the carb replaced. It is a v8 of some sort.
So is there anything specific to look for on these? This is going to be a get it running reliably and kill any rust and use it as a work truck for home projects and what not. And it has been years since I have had a basic Chevy to work on. I miss it. I figure it does not get any simpler and basic than this. I use to rebuild Small blocks all the time. So that may be in the cards unless it has the big block 
Anyway any known things to look for like frame rot or somthing that I should look for?
We used two of these (C-10 actually) for a landscaping company years ago.
There was nothing that they ever needed. One was a manual on the column.
Just be aware that it will need a E36 M3load of fancy, expensive and hard to find tools to keep running.
Pliers, flat-blade screwdriver, hammer to name but a few.
Rust is a concern no matter what on a 40+ year old vehicle. Ours had enough oil covering the undercarriage that frame rust wasn't an issue.
http://www.oldride.com/library/chevrolet_c20.html
Seems like almost every single part for these American trucks is about $5 on rockauto. Keep that in mind.
It'll probably be a struggle to get 10mpg out of it stock.
I have other vehicle's is mpg is a need. This will be a work/around town truck. To move things. Pick up plywood. Move ladders. That kind of thing. The GPM (gallons per mile) is of no concern.
Bags make it easier to load and unload.
One of my builds stuck in my head is a 72 truck, long bed, in 20 inch steelies and bagged. Satin black with red interior. 350 tbi and 700r4. Ac, power steering, power brakes, cruise. That's it. Would be pretty simple and cheap to pull off.
Look at the rear suspension. Some were truck arms, some wereleaf . If truck arm, inspect for cracks and wear.
My dad had a 72 longbed c10 for 20+ years, until recently. It rusted to pieces but it was already rusty when he got it way back. Biggest problem was the top corners of the cab around the windshield and across the cowl started rusting through and leaked. Also, gas tank is in the cab, so look for strong gas smell inside - it may indicate pinhole tank leaks that are an issue. The seal around the filler neck also goes and allows water in (and it rusts) or fuel splashback if you fill the tank and turn right too aggressively. Pretty funny to look in the mirror and watch gas running out though. His had a 307 v8 and they were apparently known for cam issues. He had a rocker stud pull up enough to start causing a miss so he pulled it all the way out, cleaned and coated the base with JB weld and tapped it back into place. Worked great. Then one of the cam lobes seem to have worn off - dead miss and no rocker movement on one cylinder. It was a yard / trash truck by that point so he pulled the spark plug and the wire off that cylinder and drove it that way. Sounded really funny. It had an exhaust system made of scrap top railing from a chainlink fence by that point.
He sold it that way to some kid for $600.
The truck arms did rust through and break. The fuel tank is inside the cab behind the seat. I would move it if were mine. If it's solid underneath I'd say no reason not to have it.
Must have been good. I agree to the sellers time to meet. I am n my way and I get a call on my cell that it has sold Guess I was not first in line.
The rear trailing arms will rust and try to kill you. That happened in my '64 and I was very lucky to survive.
