Running behind - your package is going out tomorrow with dash bits and a gasket
Running behind - your package is going out tomorrow with dash bits and a gasket
You're doing me a favor, so you are on no time commitment! Thanks for the help 
Finally got my new hardware in for my clutch pivot mod.
(SHAMELESS PLUG)
I had to buy in packs of five, so if anyone wants one I'll sell it for $10 shipped.
3/8" x 16 tpi
2" long set screw with inset allen head
thin and skinny nut for better clearance to bellhousing
316 stainless steel
marked for OEM clearance (compared to a new plastic pivot pin)
head rounded to match the contour of an OEM pivot pin
Tyler H wrote: P.S. Unless you have documentation of frequent valve adjustments (calls for 15k interval,) adjust the rocker clearance at the cam and not the valve stem as the Bentley calls for. The valve stem gets worn eccentric and won't hold an adjustment for a while. .010 feeler gauge on the cam side will keep it happy and let the valve stems go on being happily eccentric. Now you can add re-tracking the AFM, cleaning the IACV and verifying the throttle position switch to your list. All of this stuff is free and pays big dividends.
Thanks for this. I just redid the valve lash at the cam. My previous try was WAY off. So much easier to check lash at the cam. Was able to get them all bang on 0.010".
I'm going to be rebuilding the driveshaft today and replacing the diff mount. I'll check the TPS and retrack the AFM as well.
Really excited to get this done. The only things left after this is the sticking caliper, the funky gauge cluster, getting the interior all anchored down, and making sure the steering bits are in really good shape/alignment.
In reply to ValuePack:
You had it right the first time.
stroker wrote: In reply to ValuePack: You had it right the first time.
You may be right.
Replaced the rear diff bushing. Car feels awesome now. Pictures to come soon.
New gasket I found in the trunk
My helping hand
My dirty valve cover and melted plug wire holder.
The brand new 528e rear diff mount
The old one in its natural habitat
Old vs new
Look at how clean these fasteners are
Finally replaced
So lets see... today I:
Wow, you're really getting E36 M3 done! Nice progress.
What's the AFM trick?
The afm has these metal pin thingies that trace along a varying resistance strip. After lots of use they cut grooves into the strip and cause bad readings. You bend the tab that holds the pins so that they touch a different section of the resistance strip and it revitalizes the whole unit.
Gave Gustav a bath today. (But not below the side moldings, just a rinse there for now.)
Taiden wrote: The afm has these metal pin thingies that trace along a varying resistance strip. After lots of use they cut grooves into the strip and cause bad readings. You bend the tab that holds the pins so that they touch a different section of the resistance strip and it revitalizes the whole unit.
Cheers.
Looks rather good, too! Black takes some emphasis away from the diving boards that you guys called bumpers in the '80s.
love it!
Man, why do people by new cars when E36 M3 like this is around for a payment or two?
In reply to Osterkraut:
So that we can buy E36 M3 like that at some point in the future.
In tank fuel pump appears to be non-operational. Need to investigate further.
Nice shimmy at high speeds when braking. Anecdotally UCA bushings.
Front right wheel has not overheated since I exercised the caliper piston at that corner. Will inspect further...
The car will run fine without the transfer pump if the main pump is in good condition. Just dont make a hard right turn when the fuel guage is at 1/4 tank or below. Sometimes on very hot summers it can vapor lock especially if your a/c is not working to cool the fuel (fuel lines running by the low pressure hose... if you still have the original...replacements dont come with it anymore).
The cheap fix for a dead transfer pump is to go down to your local parts place and ask them for the in-tank pump for a Chevy Vega. It's an exact match for the E28 unit, requiring only that you pop the old one out of the sending unit assembly and secure the new one in its place. Under $40 the last time I bought one, which was admittedly a while ago, but I'll bet it's still a lot cheaper than the BMW part.
Yeah. The problem manifests itself as such:
With a 1/4 tank, 1st to 2nd gear WOT shift results in a smooth drop in power for about 1 second. 2nd gear pulls from idle result in nice constant power. With a full tank, this symptom doesn't appear.
I'll do the Chevy vega fuel pump. The VDO part is ~$150 iirc. $40 is much easier to stomach. That is, if I need to replace it. I actually need to dig in and give it a look. Might try the hammer tap to see what happens. It could even be completely electrical... just need to look.
Voting this up. Excellent progress out of you, young squire.
Chevy vega pump is rated 20 to 35 gph.
BMW pump is rated 45-55 gph.
hmm
FWIW, I ran the Vega pump for years without a problem. How often are you going to need to push even 20gph through your engine?
how big is the surge tank? Because you're right, it shouldn't really matter unless I was making 400 horsepower and was wide open throttle long enough for the surge tank to go empty
02pilot: what did you use for a sock?
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