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DuctTape&Bondo
DuctTape&Bondo HalfDork
10/28/13 2:52 a.m.

I blame you enablers and especially Swank Force One for making me want, search out and buy my first turbo car.

Might have bitten off a bit more than I can chew, but Friday I went to the desert and found a pressure cooking machine.

My view as I drove this used and abused automobile home.

Originally red, poorly repainted metallic silver. A 5 foot paint job at best. Red showing through where he masked poorly.

Here you see the other 2 cars I've purchased because of you people. Non-running liftback Celica project, running but not smogged Saturn SL2. And a messy garage.

Interior, has broken seam on front of driver seat and rear of passenger seat. Smells of cigarettes and needs to have human slime cleaned off. Seats are comfy though.

Came with a factory service manual, I'm gonna need it and then some.

Was hit front driver side. Core support ain't too pretty, fuse box loose and flopping around, ditto battery.

This is what I'm facing. Engine was claimed to have been replaced with a rebuilt unit 95k ago.

The brown stuff you see is desert dirt. The dude lived on a dirt road and even though the car wasn't well cared for before he got it, it had a hard few months with him for sure.

So the seller claims; Rebuilt engine 95k ago.
Upgraded turbo.
Aftermarket cam.
Clean title.

Stuff I've seen;
Boost, oil pressure and temperature gauges in pod. Appear to be working.
Turbo XS blow off valve.
Door handles do not work. Driver side handle is cracked. Passenger side missing the rod. 1 or 2 wires to throttle position sensor not hooked up.
Shifter was dead as well. Had it push started, got gas with the engine running and drove it 2+ hours home like that.
Shifter flops around. Hard to find 2nd.
Looks like active suspension removed and lowering springs installed. Cut or wrong the springs as the passenger rear is making a racket even on smooth roads. I removed the spring spacers the seller installed to be able to navigate the terrible dirt road he lived on.
The temp gauge in the dash doesn't work. Looks like they soldered in a piece of lamp cord. Is there polarity?
Cruise control cable not hooked up.
Shocks and all bushings including control arms are completely shot. Windows slow to roll up.
Key won't unlock trunk.
The motor mounts are shot. I could feel the engine moving on accel and decel. A little hairy at times, the front would wander a bit now and then. The next day I looked, the control arm bushings are so bad I can move the whole assembly by hand pushing the wheel.

Stuff I've done so far;
Installed new starter with one from Oreilly. Wasn't too bad of a job.
Took the barely holding on broken/sloppy solder and electrical tape stuff off, soldered and shrink wrapped connections one at a time to ensure everything went where it was suppos... er, where the previous owners had it connected. Hooking up the wires of the TPS makes the car bog really bad and idle at 1500. Also the idle raises and dips once you put it in gear. I re-cut the black wire and the car drives better, idles around 5-800 iirc and no bogging or rpm surging in gear. Driver side wheel spins with the car on jackstands. Wish I had another car to look at locally, or a diagram of what color wire goes to what, the FSM didn't seem to have any for the area around the throttle body.

First order of business, I need this smogged and registered in my name. That means get it running right... gonna need stock parts like blow off valve and figure out if it does have an aftermarket cam and turbo and go from there.

Yeah, I'm thinking I bit off more than I can chew. All this for the low low price of $760. Swank already offered me his email address on instafacebook, thanks bro. I will def be calling on you.

BoostedBrandon
BoostedBrandon Dork
10/28/13 5:00 a.m.

Call the pastry chef, cuz I'm jelly!

DrBoost
DrBoost PowerDork
10/28/13 5:43 a.m.

Be careful, boost is addictive.

but fun

JohnRW1621
JohnRW1621 UltimaDork
10/28/13 5:55 a.m.
DrBoost wrote: Be careful, boost is addictive. but fun

This is like a warning from the Surgeon General.

JamesMcD
JamesMcD HalfDork
10/28/13 8:42 a.m.

There are complete control arms and individual control arm bushings on RockAuto.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 8:43 a.m.

That, my friend, is a rough one.

Body itself looks really solid, though! And your front bumper isn't even sagging!

Any idea what the upgraded turbo is? Maybe just a t-bird hybrid? Any idea what cam?

Looks like it has a 626 grill, looks pretty decent.

As for the water temp gauge not working, from my personal experiences, the 88-89 water temp and fuel level gauges seem to not hold up real well. I've had two 88s now, and both those guages were non-functional on both cars. I'd personally just not worry about it since you have an aftermarket gauge that will be more useful anyways, BUT, the sensor that feeds that gauge is the one wire bullet-connector looking thing on the water neck. The wire ALWAYS gets corroded and/or breaks. ALWAYS.

The idle issues point to a few possible things. First thing to always check on these is vacuum/boost leaks. Then clean your IAC. The cam probably isn't helping things either. (Boost leak: That BOV is suspect)

Loaded front lower control arms are cheap on Rockauto, something like $45/side, they come loaded with bushings and ball joints. That's what i'd do. While you've got the passenger side arm out, re-seal the oil pan, because it's probably leaking.

As for battery/fuse box: Relocate battery to trunk, mount the fuse box to the side of the body there where the battery was.

The seat: 626 seats will fit, but don't use them. They're too tall. Hold out for an MX6 seat.

Just looking at this thing... you could really use a whole new wiring harness. The actual damage looks fairly minimal, just really dirty, but i hate hate hate tracking down bullE36 M3 that the PO did. I should have a spare by the end of the year.

What's your goal with this car? I can dump some part numbers in a bit for you.

What exactly are you looking for in terms of pictures around the throttle body? That stuff is still easily accessible on mndsm's car right now, i can snap a picture tomorrow or wednesday. I won't be much help for vacuum lines, though. I removed most of that.

JamesMcD
JamesMcD HalfDork
10/28/13 8:45 a.m.

Does it not have a sunroof? Kinda looks like it doesn't but I can't tell for sure.

The turbo MX6es without a sunroof are very rare. I've never seen one in real life.

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
10/28/13 8:49 a.m.

Ben- when you get my 88 in your posession, that will be 3 you've owned with broken temp gauges.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 9:02 a.m.
mndsm wrote: Ben- when you get my 88 in your posession, that will be 3 you've owned with broken temp gauges.

Sounds about right. The 90s i've seen have always worked. The problem with the 90 is that it's a "dummy gauge." Cold, operating, and overheating. The 88s are a real linear gauge, just without useful numbers.

I have a hunch it's the cluster, but the only part of that that bugs me is the fuel gauge. I found it way easier to just modify the front t-stat housing to use universal thermoswitches and temp sensors like i did to yours than to bother trying to figure out why the factory gauge didn't work.

Also: 428whp/470wtq on stock motor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxF7a3LYr9M

You can hear it in the video, but the way these things build boost isn't really good for anything but scaring the E36 M3 out of yourself. This thing probably took less than a second to build 26psi once 0.1psi was achieved. The boost curve is pretty awful.

sethmeister4
sethmeister4 Dork
10/28/13 9:05 a.m.

Color me jealous. Good luck!

mndsm
mndsm MegaDork
10/28/13 9:49 a.m.

Gotta love some F2T.

moparman76_69
moparman76_69 Dork
10/28/13 9:56 a.m.
mndsm wrote: Ben- when you get my 88 in your posession, that will be 3 you've owned with broken temp gauges.

Wait he's getting another one from you?

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
10/28/13 10:01 a.m.
moparman76_69 wrote:
mndsm wrote: Ben- when you get my 88 in your posession, that will be 3 you've owned with broken temp gauges.
Wait he's getting another one from you?

Cliffnotes version- mndsm buys 88 mx6 GT on SF1's suggestion, locally (to mndsm). Decides challenge car time. Discovers much cancer (in his opinion) and questions ability to fix for challenge. SF1 comes up with a clone of the car, with less rust, locally(to SF1), same exact price. All parts mndsm has purchased already, sitting at SF1's place, get installed on SF1's version of the black 88 mx6 GT. mndsm is a total dick and bails on challenge because his wife got a promotion and can't get the time off to watch the kid while mndsm is gone. Spool is now driving SF1's car with mndsm's parts that will eventually be mndsms car at challenge. mndsm has to get mndsm's RIGHT NOW car running well enough to get it to indy to trade. Eventually.

yamaha
yamaha PowerDork
10/28/13 10:29 a.m.

In reply to mndsm:

mndsm did alot of things in just that one post.....

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
10/28/13 10:31 a.m.

He's not very smart, that mndsm. Said mndsm is looking for wrecked 2zz cars on Copart right now...not that he knows somethings about a certain brown E36 M3box in his garage or anything.

Vigo
Vigo UberDork
10/28/13 10:36 a.m.

Wow, this car right here is a beater. But if you're just in it for the motor, and the motor works, well.. that's good enough!

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 10:40 a.m.
Vigo wrote: Wow, this car right here is a beater. But if you're just in it for the motor, and the motor works, well.. that's good enough!

It is right now... but it's entirely saveable.

Here's a partial parts dump.

BRAKES
Beck Arnley branded Axxis Metal Master front pads: 088-1358M - $12.64 on Rockauto
Beck Arnley branded Axxis Metal Master rear pads: 088-1357M - $14.32 on Rockauto
Centric Front Rotor: 12145026 - $17.07 on Rockauto
Centric Rear Rotor: 12145027 - $21.79 on Rockauto

Techna Fit SS Brake lines: MA-1200 - $80.50 shipped on Ebay

SUSPENSION
Whiteline Rear Control Arm Bushes: W61759 - $89.91
Whiteline Front Control Arm Bushes: W51284 - $71.91
Whiteline Rear Trailing Arm Bushes: W61767 - $89.91

Addco 1" Front Sway Bar: 559 - $200 on Summit (cheaper on ebay)
Addco 7/8" Rear Sway Bar: 467 - $200 on Summit (cheaper on Ebay)
Addco Front Endlinks (pair): 012 - $14.77 on Summit
Addco Rear Endlinks (pair): 015 - $12.28 on Summit

Energy Suspension Shifter stabilizer bushing (trans end): 4.1106 - $5.99

JamesMcD
JamesMcD HalfDork
10/28/13 10:50 a.m.

You used to be able to get the Addco end link kits at Autozone but I haven't checked in a while.

Also, there are bushings on the shifter end of the selector rod, where the rod meets the bottom of the shift lever, which are a good idea to replace.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 10:54 a.m.

There's ES endlink kits that work at Autozone, i just have to take measurements of the spacer sleeves on the Addcos to match them up first. I'd actually suggest using the ES units instead, as i was less than impressed with the hardware supplied with the last set of Addcos i purchased.

Vigo
Vigo UberDork
10/28/13 11:23 a.m.

I googled F2T head flow and my brain shriveled up until i clicked out. Does anyone actually KNOW?!

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 11:24 a.m.
Vigo wrote: I googled F2T head flow and my brain shriveled up until i clicked out. Does anyone actually KNOW?!

There's numbers on PerformanceProbe, but i'm reasonably sure they're complete bullE36 M3. (as in.... twice what they actually are.)

I found better numbers a few weeks ago, i'd have to do some digging again.

It ain't good, though. Like.... not even triple digits.

A good rule of thumb when searching for F2/1g MX6 information is that if the thread you found is newer than say.... 2008, it's probably 99% bullE36 M3.

Rad_Capz
Rad_Capz HalfDork
10/28/13 11:43 a.m.

I was about to give up till the cliff notes, thanks

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
10/28/13 11:47 a.m.

This is probably about the most realistic flow rates of the F2 out there that i'm aware of.

http://www.performanceprobe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25928&highlight=flowbench

F2 intake
.100 53
.150 72
.200 85
.250 102
.300 110
.350 117
.400 121
.450 122

F2 exhaust
.100 16
.150 32
.200 43
.250 57
.300 67
.350 73
.400 78
.450 78

Armitage
Armitage Reader
10/28/13 12:17 p.m.

I wish you would have bought my GVR4 instead but since that ship has sailed, good luck!

Vigo
Vigo UberDork
10/28/13 1:21 p.m.

Those are the numbers i found that i am 99% sure are wrong. Those are worse than the Turbo Dodge headflow numbers (with twice the intake valves!) and the F2T seems to perform better at higher boost levels with stock heads. I was guessing it was closer to 160-180 on the intake side.

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