so, im pretty much a mopar guy when it comes to engines, etc.
but im doing a motor swap for a local vietnam vet in his 53 ford f100. using a 5.0 HO from a 92 mustang GT.
were converting to carb using an edelbrock performer intake and carter 650AFB.
the motor came as a longblock, with all the ctock serpentine accessories in a box. unknown if bolts and spacers are in the box, as i havent really looked yet, and dont know what all id be looking for when i do.
does anyone have any assebly diagrams, parts schematocs, etc for the serpentine assembly so i know what it is supposed to look like and how it goes together? i know with my mopars that the parts books have really good assembly pictures with all the bolts, whasers, etc listed and drawn out.
also, im looking for a distributor. with it being a roller cam, do i need anything special, or will the Ebay HEI small block ford distributor be fine?
lastly for now, does anyone know what size plugs i need for the EGR ports in the back of the heads?
thanks guys
michael
Hope this is the correct engine.
its a start.
thanks.
now to just find a diagram of where all these cast aluminum chunks of brackets go, and in what order.
and i WILL be deleting the smog pump. really no need for this build.....
they aren't that complicated.. just start holding the bigger pieces up and see where the holes line up, then find the bolts that fit into the holes..
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find. i'd skip the cheap ChiCom HEI stuff and grab a Duraspark setup off a late 70's car in the junkyard and run that.. it's about as simple and bulletproof as you will find for a Ford.
Be aware that standard rotation for any Fox 5.0 engine water pump is reverse.
novaderrik wrote:
they aren't that complicated.. just start holding the bigger pieces up and see where the holes line up, then find the bolts that fit into the holes..
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find. i'd skip the cheap ChiCom HEI stuff and grab a Duraspark setup off a late 70's car in the junkyard and run that.. it's about as simple and bulletproof as you will find for a Ford.
Regarding the Duraspark. Try to find a OEM Ign. Module of at least a USA made one. The Chinese made ones do not last. There are some ways to use a Duraspark dist. with alternate modules. Do an internet search. Also if you do a Duraspark dist. and the cam is a roller cam and i have to assume it is you will need a dist. cam gear that is steel and not cast iron or bronze. Some have used the bronze gears but they can wear out faster under some conditions.
jimbbski wrote:
novaderrik wrote:
they aren't that complicated.. just start holding the bigger pieces up and see where the holes line up, then find the bolts that fit into the holes..
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find. i'd skip the cheap ChiCom HEI stuff and grab a Duraspark setup off a late 70's car in the junkyard and run that.. it's about as simple and bulletproof as you will find for a Ford.
Regarding the Duraspark. Try to find a OEM Ign. Module of at least a USA made one. The Chinese made ones do not last. There are some ways to use a Duraspark dist. with alternate modules. Do an internet search. Also if you do a Duraspark dist. and the cam is a roller cam and i have to assume it is you will need a dist. cam gear that is steel and not cast iron or bronze. Some have used the bronze gears but they can wear out faster under some conditions.
grab the ignition box out of the car in the junkyard.. if it's an original one, it will probably be good forever.. otherwise you can get a harness to plug an MSD box into the distributor if you want to make people think you have a really fast race car..
regarding the distributor gear: when we built a roller 5.0 out of an 88 Mercury Marquis for a friend's 89 Mustang, he just got a reman distributor for a 70's 302 powered something or other from NAPA and shoved it in.. the cam was a Ford motorsport E303 and it's been together like that since '04. the funniest thing about that was that the casting numbers on the distributor body decoded to a 67 model year, but it had all the later Duraspark guts in it..
novaderrik wrote:
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find.
WRONG!
The roller cam has to have a steel distributor gear. Cast or bronze are incompatible and will not last.
As you are putting together the front dress be aware that the water pump for the Mustang serpentine setup is driven from the smooth side of the belt and rotates counterclockwise, hence the belt surface of the pulley should be smooth. Grooved pulleys for a clockwise rotation pump, which were used on Crown Vics, are drilled differently in an effort to make them idiotproof (but we all know how creative idiots can be). Turning a CCW pump CW or vice-versa will result in poor cooling so if you find that your pulley does not match the water pump one of them is incorrect.
Good luck,
Jeff
Dusterbd13 wrote:
now to just find a diagram of where all these cast aluminum chunks of brackets go.
Maybe this will help decipher where some of the pieces parts were:
Cheers,
Jeff
that actually helps a lot jeff.
and im missing that huge plate on the front there.
that sounds like an awesome project any pics? I would love to have an f100 to tool around in some day
will do soon. only got the motor and chassis at my place at the moment.
ill take pics with the long block assembled and painted.
ill also use thgis thread, or start a new one.
my builds arent normally grm style, but i can start moving them over here if you guys would like.
michael
JKleiner wrote:
novaderrik wrote:
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find.
WRONG!
The roller cam has to have a steel distributor gear. Cast or bronze are incompatible and will not last.
are you speaking from experience, or from what you've read in magazines and online?
because i'm speaking from experience.. we just took the reman distributor out of the box, put some assembly lube on the gear, and stabbed it in.. as far as i know, it hasn't been out since early summer of '04. maybe the E303 is special in that respect...
Way back when billet roller cams required a bronze dizzy gear and it was accepted that they were a wear item. Cast iron or steel dizzy gears would wreck the camshaft teeth.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/61179/properly_matching_your_camshaft_and_distributor_gear.aspx
novaderrik wrote:
JKleiner wrote:
novaderrik wrote:
regarding the distributor- just use any old Ford distributor you can find.
WRONG!
The roller cam has to have a steel distributor gear. Cast or bronze are incompatible and will not last.
are you speaking from experience, or from what you've read in magazines and online?
because i'm speaking from experience.. we just took the reman distributor out of the box, put some assembly lube on the gear, and stabbed it in.. as far as i know, it hasn't been out since early summer of '04. maybe the E303 is special in that respect...
No I am not speaking from personal experience of failure, I'm speaking from personal experience of success---I've never experienced a distributor gear failure in a Windsor because I've done the research and have not made the mistake of using a mismatched cam and gear. It is well know within the SBF world that if you combine a cast dizzy gear with a roller cam this is the eventual result:
The information is readily available. It would be prudent for the original poster to perform due diligence and make his decision accordingly...
Jeff
RossD
UltraDork
6/27/12 7:12 a.m.
+1 for a build thread full of pictures.
will do on the build thread. it will be kinda jumbled, as im doing all the drivetrain and chassis work, sending the chassis to be mated with the body, then getting it back for wiring, gauges, etc. may even be doing the interior.
i love my second job. zo6 vette last weekend, 53 f100 during the week, 1957 chevy this weekend, dailying a grm challenge acr neon, and playing with a 70 duster that ive had since before i could drive.
most mental health professionals dont do this kind of stuff and show up to work on every single monday with scarred up hands and grease under their nails.
and it seems, according to the summitracing tech guys that the summit hei style distributor has a steel gear, and is guarenteed to work with a factory roller cam.
due to price and style, i thiunk that is the one im going with.
Why are you calling the 5.0 a Ho? I mean, sure its been around a bit and is pretty easy, but that seems a bit rude.
High Output. Right. Nevermind.
pinchvalve wrote:
Why are you calling the 5.0 a Ho? I mean, sure its been around a bit and is pretty easy, but that seems a bit rude.
wow.
thant made me snarf my cofee.
i vote that one for the mag.
Dusterbd13 wrote:
most mental health professionals dont do this kind of stuff and show up to work on every single monday with scarred up hands and grease under their nails.
But would you trust a skinny chef???? 
Dusterbd13 wrote:
and it seems, according to the summitracing tech guys that the summit hei style distributor has a steel gear, and is guarenteed to work with a factory roller cam.
due to price and style, i thiunk that is the one im going with.
NEVER use a cast iron gear on a roller cam. Steel, bronze, or plastic are just fine.
Ranger50 wrote:
Dusterbd13 wrote:
most mental health professionals dont do this kind of stuff and show up to work on every single monday with scarred up hands and grease under their nails.
But would you trust a skinny chef????
or a fat diatician?
gotta know what youre talking about, and show it in your daily walk.
heh.
hope that last one wasnt offecsive. i havent been sleeping a lot lately due to work and family, and it was meant to be a comment about skinney chefs, fat diaticians, out of shape personal trainers, me, or bodymen with flaking paint.
anone know if the bolt threads on ths motor (92 mustang 5.0) are standard pr metric?
