Obviously cut frame, need a shortened drive shaft, fuel lines, brake lines, and cut and shorten bed box (if retaining a bed). What other potential aspects am I overlooking?
Obviously cut frame, need a shortened drive shaft, fuel lines, brake lines, and cut and shorten bed box (if retaining a bed). What other potential aspects am I overlooking?
Possibly needing to relocate spring hangers, fuel tank, and crossmembers.
And exhaust.
Depending on the truck, both the front and rear of the rear of the bed (and frame) may have to be shortened. Some beds don't have body lines that work well, or worse, at all with shortening.
Wiring will need to be shortened.
You will need to find a straight section to cut out, and fishplating is highly recommended.
In reply to Cooter :
We'll assume that it's a GM 1500 2WD, year and cab configuration not yet determined/secured.
In reply to captdownshift : truck boxes come in 5&1/2 foot size, 6&1/2 foot size and 8 foot size.
In reply to GameboyRMH :
That's pretty damn cool
I’ll tell you how I did it. I just let the looks of the long bed grow on me. And they did. I kind of prefer them now as long as the chosen wheels and rake are right. Feels pretty good to be able to shut the gate on an 8’ sheet of ply too.
First and foremost, how are you making sure the frame sections are in proper alignment when they are re-joined?
Pete
In reply to A 401 CJ :
They don't make a 28-36" bed.
Driveshaft alignment and angle is the big one other then the mechanical stuff you know you need to do.
Are we talking making a stubby bob or making a long bed into a short bed.
I shortened my '77 C10. It isn't any harder than you are imagining.
Driven it now going on five years, hauled lots of stuff (gotta be close to a hundred 1000-1700lb loads of gravel, sand, dirt, whatever), pulled trailer, and everything.
A step cut is strongest, and angle cut less strong, and a vertical cut the weakest. If you do step cuts, do them in opposite directions on either side of the truck.
Use the cut sections as your fishplate metal - it's the same material as the frame.
Measure carefully more than a few times. Step cuts make re-alignment a whole lot easier.
Cut with a cutting disk and an angle grinder for the cleanest cuts.
Measure diagonals to make sure it's square.
LOTS of documentation on this on the Chevy Truck Forum of your choice, though I frequent the 67-72chevytrucks one the most.
I'm looking primarily at GMT900s, but the basics will be the same.
And think stubby Bob, but instead of wheel stands, lowered with wide, grippy rubber.
I think I recall reading that the later frames kind of telescope together, so if you find the join, cut the weld, shorten and then slide it back together, it should be easy-peasy.
In reply to SkinnyG :
You could get a Studebaker that telescoped to pull house trailers.
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