The long and the short is that I'm tired of having tumblers and ignition switches go bad in the Ford Econobox.
So I've ordered this:
Long acre ignition switch and starter button panel with accessory switches
The plan is to mount it where the single din radio was and to also run the rear defroster and fog light controls to it. I've read up on the ignition tumbler removal aspect, as I want to ensure that the steering wheel lock is permanently disabled, but wiring and electrical work is not my forte.
Anyone with advice, or experience in putting together such a setup want to chime in? Is there an article in the archives which I should be reading?
It's going to make the van easy to steal unless you add something to cut ignition. Like a key :)
Fairly straightforward to install. It'll help if you can get the wiring diagram for the ignition switch - it's probably got the starter, ignition and two accessory circuits (one that cuts out when cranking, one that does not). This thing won't cut any other circuits while cranking, so keep that in mind. Wire the ignition circuit to the covered switch, the starter to the button and do what you want with the accessory circuits. I'd also try to find out from Longacre what the ratings on those switches are, you may need some relays to keep them from burning up.
Security wise I'm getting a club like steering wheel lock as a deterrent, until I install the quick release steering wheel hub (I'm researching which one to get, as some have a tendency to release while driving, which is a non starter for me)
I appreciate the insight and will definitely reach out with regards to ratings and relays
The starter switch is 40 amp @ 12v, 20amp at 110v and the accessory switches are 15amp at 12v
Leaving the keys in it is the simplest solution to making your car easiest to steal. 
Captdownshift (Forum Supporter) said:
The starter switch is 40 amp @ 12v, 20amp at 110v and the accessory switches are 15amp at 12v
Starter switch is probably fine. I'd check the fuse ratings on your ignition circuit to make sure you're okay there.
Street cars tend to have much more accessory load than race cars - an HVAC blower motor can pull a lot of power. Again, check fuse ratings, if you add up the fuses going to a certain circuit that will give you a conservative view of how much will be going through that switch. 40A relays are pretty easy to come by and wire.
