Learn me Jaguar rear ends... Where’s Frenchy??

I need an education...

I’m considering a Jaguar rear end for my 1960 El Camino. I love the old school look, the inboard brakes, and the overall packaging. 

My my Elky ain’t no Jag, and I’m wondering if it will work. 

The car will have a 500 hp big block and weigh 4500 lbs when finished. And it’s got the ever hated X-frame. 

However, this isn’t gonna be a drag racer. It’s a street cruiser. Highway speeds matter, and there will be plenty of torque for launches, and of course the prerequisite burnouts at will. 

So how strong are these?  What gearing is available?  LSD?  Is this just not the right application?  Is this a marriage made in heaven, or purgatory?

Aren’t they a Dana 44 center section? Unless I’m wrong (always a possibility) the diameter is just under that on a Ford 9” at 8.5-8.8”.

And also if true, just about any gear ratio, and LSD, Spool, locker is available.

In reply to ebonyandivory :

Pretty close to a Dana 44 but some differences in ring gear bolts and I think bearings. Most factory gears are going to be in the 2.88-3.36 range which would be good for freeway use. Some factory LSDs available, probably the aftermarket stuff for Dana 44 can be made to work too.

SVreX - 4500lbs seems very heavy, mine was 3400lbs when I got it weighed when it still had a small block. Was also missing inner fenders and some interior but not enough to make 1000lbs difference. I had a full size '62 Buick Invicta station wagon that was only 4200lbs...

The Jag rear wouldn't be ideal if you do any towing or hauling but they do ride nice.

In reply to Racingsnake :

I found this online: Curb Weight: 3684-3795 lbs. 

I can’t imagine a big block getting it even to 4,000lbs. Maybe 3,850? 

I just opted out of going to look at a cheap V8-swapped XJ6 because I (temporarily) don't have enough garage to deal with the fact that a simple brake job on one of these is best started by dropping the subframe. Onboard [EDIT: facepalm... that should be *Inboard*] brakes are neat, but they come at a price...

In reply to ebonyandivory :

The 348 was available in '60. That engine is all of 650lb, which is about the weight of a 454 with an aluminum intake.

In reply to Racingsnake :

The car is 4008 lbs as it sits with a small block. I’ve weighed it with my racing scales. 

In reply to SVreX :

I 100% believe you, of course. Intuitively it seems overly heavy.

Ransom said:

I just opted out of going to look at a cheap V8-swapped XJ6 because I (temporarily) don't have enough garage to deal with the fact that a simple brake job on one of these is best started by dropping the subframe. Onboard brakes are neat, but they come at a price...

That’s a good point, but I have a feeling it is dependent on the application. 

This one sure looks easy to access the calipers!

In reply to ebonyandivory :

The interior has been swapped to a heavy 60/40 motorized bench seat from a Monte, and it has a significant performance stereo on board (with large sub box). These could easily account for a couple hundred lbs. 

In reply to SVreX :

Older sedans a whole rear end sells in the $150 -200 range although I’ve had more than a few just given to me.  

Weight of your El Camino  is just about perfect for the stock springs and shocks.  

Width is also near perfect and your wheels will bolt right on!  I’m not sure about how easy it  will bolt into your frame  but the whole package is compact  and has 4 mounts that will simply unbolt. Plus two “draglinks”  held on by another 2 bolts.  Brake line and parking brake cables  are all that’s left. 

While you’re under the Jaguar grab the drive shaft, you’ll want the flange that bolts onto the rear end but   There is a good chance the u-joints are the same size  so that should simplify drive shaft issues. ( deal with length by shortening/lengthening your drive shaft ) plus grab the plates the drag links mount to. Held in place by 4 cold rivets best removed with a chisel, or just drill them out. 

I’ve raced them and and they are extremely durable and will take anything you can throw at them. 

In reply to frenchyd :

Are there preferred models, years, etc?  Some with and without LSD?

What should I look for?

I'll look up the man's name in S. carolina with the Jag Parts may be eaiser than you Thought.

 P S that T-Bucket has a Quick Change With Jag Axles.

In reply to frenchyd : Most sedans will have a positraction. All V12’s and XJS  will.   There is usually a tag indicating ring gear and pinion teeth. 

In general anything 1965-75 big sedan  MK 10, 420, will have a 3:31 ratio.  XJ6 to about 1982 will have either a 3:07 or 3;31 and may not have positraction. 

XJ12 will be 3:07 optional 3:31 but rare after 1975.  Practically all post 1980  will have 2:88. Until 1992 when most went to 3:54 and outboard brakes.  

I will crawl under and measure frame width  but not today. It’s so cold there is almost no degrees left and there is snow and Ice on the ground.  Yuk!  

Do not take one from an XKE. Much too narrow and likely will have wire wheels. Also the 3.8S Jag sedan is also too narrow ( but wider than the XKE) and might have wire  wheel hubs. 

In reply to frenchyd :

Thank you. Good info. 

(I wish I was better at calculating rear end ratios) 

It sounds like you are saying most Jaguar models shared rear end overall design- packaging, subframe, integrated suspension, onboard brakes, etc. True?

In reply to frenchyd :

Rebuilding brakes on pre 1991 Jag rear end. Easy to do when rear end is out.  But do take calipers apart and do a light hone on the cylinders before reassembly with new rubber.  Not unusual for brake nipples to rust so bad they snap on removal, ( up here in the rust belt I always use heat and more than 90% of the time they come out without an issue)  if that happens use care when you drill them, you don’t want to goober the nipple seat.   Make sure the parking brake cables aren’t frozen.  About 30% are here in the rust belt. But that pretty much applies to any parking brakes. 

In reply to frenchyd :

If you totally take the rear end apart keep track of all the shims and spacers.  One thing you’ll want to replace is all the needle bearings.  Yes part of the beauty of the Jaguar rear end is it’s lack of rubber bushings.  Instead it rotates on needle bearings. 

Very few rear ends Ive pulled apart have been properly greased and as a result they are shot. For racing I just replaced the whole assembly with brass bushings I’d whip up on my lathe. Plus I could offset the hole to change geometry for certain tracks.  

In reply to frenchyd :

Now you’re over my head. 

In reply to SVreX : Yes!  Oh, don’t bring metric wrenches

In reply to SVreX :

Unless it’s a high mileage rust bucket  don’t worry about disassembly.  Just paint it.  Maybe replace the shocks although I’ve rarely found them worn.  And grease every grease nipple. ( there are a lot of them just about any place that moves). Also on the outer hubs there is a steel bump in the middle. Pry that off and  making darn sure your grease gun nipple is clean  shove the whole nipple in there and give it a good 4-6 pumps of grease.  You just greased the rear wheel bearings)  don’t fill it completely.  It needs to expand. Then tap that domed cap back in place.  

In reply to frenchyd :

Oh,  gear lube,  positraction rear ends need the special supliment.  I used to have to go to Chevy dealers to buy it but a local NAPA now carries it. 

The rear here is likely a post 75 as it has the 2.88 gear guessing by Frenchyd's description, and has like new Parking brake parts but sitting has the rotors looking to be replaced, they are very thin and I don't know what can be turned off.  Frenchyd's ability to find parts cheap amaizing . I find stuff I think is Cheap But it's Almost twice what he see's, but still a complete rear for about 400 seeemed good as I also got another with it in Pieces for 150ish.  

In reply to GTXVette :

I’m just a cheap bas—— plus decades of messing with Jaguars I know plenty of sources.  It helps that nearby is a really great Jaguar junkyard.  

Earlier rotors are 3/8thick later ones went to 1/2 inch thick. Cheaper now to buy new rotors than turn them. Rock auto used to sell them very cheap. 

In reply to frenchyd :

I’m not sure that is the case in SC