AMiataCalledSteve
AMiataCalledSteve Reader
8/27/22 4:10 p.m.

I picked up a used 10" NASCAR oil tank for my stock car project, and I'm thinking I'll probably mount it behind the passenger seat. The tank has a series of inlets, outlets, and various ports that I need to make sense of. As far as I can tell, the bottom has an outlet with an AN-12 fitting, and three more ports for I-don't-know-what.

 

The top just has the cap and these two -12 fittings. One for an inlet, and the other for ???

 

There are also two small ports in the side. I'm thinking I could use a 90* fitting with some clear tubing to make a sight glass with the lower one, but IDK about the upper.

Any thoughts would be greatly welcome!

kb58
kb58 SuperDork
8/27/22 6:06 p.m.

First, separate the tank halves and see what you've got.

The tank may be set up for 1-4 scavange inlets. The scavenge pumps return oil back to the tank tangentially near the top such that the returning oil swirls around and down the walls, sort of like a tornado. That helps separate the oil from the air and fumes, which rise to the very top most fitting, where it exits through a hose to a "puke can", or if you're ghetto, to the ground.

The bottom-most center fitting is a drain, and one of the fittings immediately above that is the supply line to the dry sump pressure pump.

Again, separate the tank sections and see what you've got. There's nothing wrong with having more fittings than you need, just plug them.

Oh, and if you have a choice, mounting the tank physically higher than the dry sump pump is better than lower, because gravity helps feed the pump, instead of it having to suck through a straw, so to speak.

My dry sump system was one of the best (and most $$$$) decisions I made, but it outright saved the engine several times, and possibly more often on-track, keeping a well-deaerated supply of oil always available.

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UberDork
8/28/22 8:27 p.m.

My view of that tank says it does not open up like a 2 piece tank. Take the bungs out and shine some light and a dental mirror around inside to see where the fittings go after they enter the tank. Tank inlets in particular are usually not just a hole in the wall of the tank. The two small ports on the vertical axis are for a sight "glass" that is connected top and bottom. Assume it is dirty with engine failure debris if you bought used.

frenchyd
frenchyd MegaDork
8/28/22 8:52 p.m.

Good thought.   It will need to be clean because the -12 fitting on the bottom feeds the  inlet side of the pressure section of the pump.
 
  The -12 line then goes into the cooler and from the cooler feeds pressured cleaned cooled oil to the engine. 
   The three  scavage sections  go to the oil filter  and can be delivered by one to 3 lines depending how your filtration system is set up. 

AMiataCalledSteve
AMiataCalledSteve Reader
8/29/22 5:10 p.m.

Thanks everyone! I'll definitely poke around as much as possible, but TurnerX19 is right, the tank is welded at the center and does not separate. I'm thinking I'll take it to a shop to see if they could flush it for me. I bought it from RFK Racing in an auction where they were selling off a lot of obsolete parts, so I'm hoping this was just a test piece, much like the fuel cell I bought. I really appreciate y'all's input, I learn a lot every time I ask a question on here.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/29/22 6:19 p.m.

Filter goes between engine and scavenge side of pump, or between scavenge and tank?

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