G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/23/15 10:36 p.m.

Exactly as the (exceedingly long) title suggests. Apparently these little trucklets are surprisingly reasonable on insurance, and can be had for fairly cheap. So what gives? If there aren't any major design flaws, I might pick one up after my Panther Plan came crashing to the ground.

pointofdeparture
pointofdeparture GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/15 10:47 p.m.

They rust like crazy. Like, insane rust. Wisconsin doesn't have vehicle inspections; they are one of those vehicles you frequently see death trap examples of on the road here, that look like they were parked in the ocean for a decade.

G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/23/15 10:48 p.m.

In reply to pointofdeparture:

Even the second generation models?

BlueInGreen44
BlueInGreen44 Dork
10/23/15 10:49 p.m.

Hey, I actually asked this question when my roommate was looking at one a few weeks ago.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/suzuki-vitara-i-guess-this-is-a-learn-me-thread/106186/page1/

Just don't do what he did and buy a Sebring convertible instead.

G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/23/15 10:53 p.m.

In reply to BlueInGreen44:

Oooh, this is a wealth of information. Thanks!

pointofdeparture
pointofdeparture GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/15 11:12 p.m.

In reply to G_Body_Man:

Yep. Friend of ours has a XL-7 that is positively horrific. There are not many left around here and the ones that are were either lifelong summer mud trucks and still look pretty good, or driven in winter and basically look like Swiss cheese. Not much in the middle.

G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/23/15 11:14 p.m.
pointofdeparture wrote: In reply to G_Body_Man: Yep. Friend of ours has a XL-7 that is positively horrific. There are not many left around here and the ones that are were either lifelong summer mud trucks and still look pretty good, or driven in winter and basically look like Swiss cheese. Not much in the middle.

Good to note. Fortunately, up in the Okanagan, cars rarely rust. I'll still check it over with a fine-tooth comb.

petegossett
petegossett GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/24/15 6:04 a.m.

The 1.6L single-cam is pretty anemic if you're dealing with urban traffic. The 2.0L will at least get out of its own way - though still not "fast". And check the frame for rust thoroughly...it's not uncommon to find one with a rust-free body, but one or more sections of the frame completely gone.

KyAllroad
KyAllroad SuperDork
10/24/15 6:44 a.m.

Man I'm glad winters aren't bad here. I hardly see rusty vehicles in Kentucky anymore.

Otherwise nothing much to add. Sport-cutes are definitely a thing and they seem reliable enough. Probably good car for a youngster.

NickD
NickD Reader
10/24/15 8:19 a.m.

The 1999-2004 model years even had a recall for front subframes rotting out (#06186: Special Coverage Adjustment - Front Suspension Crossmember Corrosion - (Oct 17, 2007)) that involved the technician putting it up on a lift and trying to poke holes in strategic areas of the front subframe with a 3/16" punch and a 12-oz hammer (Not even joking). If the punch went through anywhere, you got a free subframe.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/24/15 8:32 a.m.

IIRC, the later V6s had some issues with timing chains and/or guides. They develop a death rattle and timing jumps. My son's in laws, lunched a engine at 110K

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
10/24/15 11:37 a.m.

Parts are getting to be NLA for some important things.

G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/24/15 12:05 p.m.

In reply to iadr:

Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, I need a 5 door simply because my parents will be using it to move house in a few months. But I've always loved those flip light accords. However, I'm glad to hear that you love your little trucklet. It gives me confidence in buying a newer one.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/24/15 12:05 p.m.

In reply to Knurled:

Most of them can be sourced from non-traditional places. A lot of my Samurai parts come from Lowrangeoffroad.com and Rock Auto carries a pretty good selection as well.

G_Body_Man
G_Body_Man Dork
10/24/15 12:07 p.m.
Knurled wrote: Parts are getting to be NLA for some important things.

Like what? Most of the stuff I can find used or as NOS (connections are everything), but if crucial stuff like caliper brackets and what not are NLA, then I might have a problem.

chiodos
chiodos HalfDork
10/24/15 12:16 p.m.

Don't take this the wrong way, it seems you ask a "learn me xxx really random car" but every week everyone talks you out of them, or most of them yet again every week you start another. Why not do the other thing grmers do in your position, ask the hive "what car" and who know you may find something seemingly quirky yet suitable and reliable for you. Again don't take this as me being a bastard, which I am, I would like to help you with the hive in finding you a good car but I think we need another method.

Let me toss out one suggestion so I'll be useful. Volvo 240, they come in 5 door and do most everything very well

JtspellS
JtspellS SuperDork
10/24/15 12:55 p.m.

Just putting it out there, rotary swaps are popular in this community.....

clutchsmoke
clutchsmoke SuperDork
10/24/15 1:02 p.m.

In reply to chiodos:

Yeah. I vote Volvo wagon too. They are awesome.

ebonyandivory
ebonyandivory UltraDork
10/24/15 1:27 p.m.

Long time Zuk fan here... Buy a Volvo Wagon and snow tires!

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltimaDork
10/25/15 2:45 a.m.

Rust, slow, pretty bad on fuel for what it is. Not a good vehicle to crash as I recall, especially with the rust problem.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
10/25/15 6:51 a.m.
G_Body_Man wrote:
Knurled wrote: Parts are getting to be NLA for some important things.
Like what? Most of the stuff I can find used or as NOS (connections are everything), but if crucial stuff like caliper brackets and what not are NLA, then I might have a problem.

I had a string of them in for oil pans and line racks this summer. No idea where that came from, went from not seeing any for ten years to suddenly becoming an expert in Trackers.

I got it down to a procedure for pulling the oil pan. All you have to do is remove the rack and pinion (pull the lines at the pump, it's faster and less messy), then pull the front diff assembly (jack engine up, break off bolts in trans because of massive corrosion and deal with later, unbolt left axle from diff, do flamenco-Lambada maneuver to pull diff out with right axle still in place) and then you can get to the oil pan...

And then when everything is apart, now you can make the new brake and fuel lines since access is loads easier.

Anyway. I've forgotten the details on a lot of things but I remember one of them also had a bad spindle bearing and spindles were NLA and it took forever to get the spindle bearing because it had to come from a central warehouse somewhere. Backing plates also NLA. I was able to save the spindle with derusting solution and some Loctite bearing set to hold the bearing in place, but it wasn't pretty and I consoled myself that the vehicle would probably be off the road in three-five years due to rust.

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