Mr_Asa said:Ok now the big question is, who has done the GRM thing and made their own table/stand for the saw? What did you learn? What would you change?
A quick google turned up this page. It has a PDF drawing on it that has exact measurements.
https://www.downeastthunder.com/2018/04/build-a-portable-bandsaw-table-free-plans/
Mine looked pretty similar to that.
1) Make sure the legs are stiff enough and the base is heavy. If its not heavy enough, the table will move while cutting, unless you have some way of holding the table. I used a vise to hold my DIY table in place, worked just fine. That DIY plan has very tall legs, if the table isn't held in place then it could easily tip over.
2) For the table, make the holes counter sunk and use a counter sink allen head fastener to hold the table to the saw. Otherwise the screws will protrude and get in the way of the workpiece
3) Use a velcro band to hold the trigger down on the saw. If you want to get fancy, can add a switch after the saw plug and mount it on the table.
4) Use thick metal (more than 1/18") for the table top so there is less deflection
It would be very difficult to recreate the SWAG table miter slot, and the "quick remove" table feature, without getting the table part plasma/waterjet cut. And then you're quickly approaching the price of the SWAG unit, that's why I just bought one instead of trying to duplicate it. That, and the "quick remove" of the V2 table, makes the price tag worth it. If you buy a HF saw for $100, and a SWAG table for $130, that's only $230 for an extremely capable metal bandsaw.
Here's a really fancy DIY stand, he had the table and legs plasma cut and it bolts together, if you're looking for more inspiration. Some good ideas here, like having the table edge protrude all around the perimeter, so that clamps can be used along the edge (for makeshift fence).
