We got our residual value on the Lemons Datstang, which means we've got some change in the couch cushions to make it handle. Right now it's alllll stock bits and pieces. We'll be welding the rear diff since we're suffering from a lot of wheelspin heading up the hill at NHMS.
So far it seems like the short list is GT front springs, sway bar and some kind of strut with crash bolts for neg camber. Anything I can weld up or make on the cheap that will help this thing?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1557882029?pc_redir=1413093282&robot_redir=1
Start with that book? It's a bit dated, but all the tips in there center around DIY/ fab your own parts
I'm not spending $75 for a used book.
Stiffen the chassis? That's cheap enough.
Bumpsteer correcting front tie rod ends might be smart. Stiffer non-lowering springs for the rear and a panhard bar and a stiffer anti-roll bar perhaps out back?
ebonyandivory wrote: Stiffen the chassis? That's cheap enough.
Yeah this is a good idea too.
DaveEstey wrote: I'm not spending $75 for a used book.
you might be able to get $1000 worth of "free" parts and advice out of it. then you can sell it again..
Calling Timbomb Racing...
Seriously, Ed took 2nd place in the autocross at the Challenge in a Fox body, which contributed to his overall win.
He told me the secret to making a Fox fast was to not screw it up. Factory geometry pretty good.
Start lowering, etc. and you can screw it up fast.
You may not think $75 is worth it but that is the book I used to base the modifications to my 1993 Cobra R for road racing. I made all of the parts used on the car. From camber plates, to coil over conversions, modified T-Bird LCAs and then later tubular LCA's, a modified stock K member, longer wheelbase and engine set back. All done per that book.
I just looked and found this: http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Performance-Handbook-HP1193-William/dp/1557881936 The thing is since the Fox chassis has been around so long there is a good supply of used stock and aftermarket performance parts out there. Both engine and suspension parts at Lemons prices!
The simple mods is to stiffen the springs & some of the bushings, add neg. camber and pos. caster to the front. How to do this is in the book. I still have my copy and would not part with it even though I sold my last Fox in 2006.
I know that I could build a Fox for Lemons that would kickass handling wise. You just have to know what to do and how to do it. Most faster Foxes I have seen at Lemons races do it with horsepower (If a V8) or are just slow if anything else.
I have both performance handbooks and would be willing to sell them, since unlike me you'll actually put them to use.
Let me know if you're interested.
The_Jed wrote: I have both performance handbooks and would be willing to sell them, since unlike me you'll actually put them to use. Let me know if you're interested.
I am interested in those books as well. I want to run my '88 all season next year but need to make some adjustments over the winter.
Sample of stock mustang with RS3's. Aka mine.
http://youtu.be/e3NPvK5hr80
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/help-with-79-83-mustangs/40725/page1/
there was already a thread on it...
DaveEstey wrote: I'm not spending $75 for a used book.
Haven't bought textbooks lately have you?
In reply to Spinout007:
I graduated from college 10 years ago. I didn't feel the pain most did even then because I was smart enough to order my books on Amazon.
Jed, you've got email.
What I remember is, raise the front control arm's rear mounting point to raise the roll center and increase anti-dive, move the rack back as far as you can manage to decrease the negative Ackerman, fix the bumpsteer after you do all that (it needs to be fixed anyway), and allow the rear suspension to move.
Most other methods involve making the front suspension not move very much so that its horrible geometry doesn't matter, then getting grip back with alignment settings.
Not much we can do about the rack without redoing everything. As noted, this car is right hand drive now.
Back atcha.
Since you guys have a welder, why not fab up a panhard bar and torque arm? If the torque arm is too much, you could always try the "poor man's 3 link".
For springs, you generally want 600+ in/lb up front, and 200+ out back. The 01 Bullitt springs were the best factory springs available. They are 600 front and 200 rear, and they will fit a fox body. I believe the Mach I's had the same rates, just taller springs, but don't take that as gospel.
The new edge's (99-04) had better front control arm geometry, so even stock one's are an upgrade. The 03/04 Cobra's were best, but they're pricey.
I do know for the upper rear control arms, you want to go as stiff as you can on the axle side, and soft/factory on the body side.
Check out camaromustangchallenge.com for lots of good info.
P.M. me your address and they will be headed your way first thing monday morning.
SVreX wrote: He told me the secret to making a Fox fast was to not screw it up. Factory geometry pretty good.
Buh? This is the same fox body with strut fronts with no camber, and "quad shock" 4-link rear with conflicting arcs, prone to binding and snap oversteer?
I've never owned one, but the people I know who've made them fast have generally removed pretty much everything factory in the entire suspension and replaced them with aftermarket stuff.
Big Ass Front Sway Bar.
Or really stiff front springs. (stop letting the front suspension work. I have something like a 35mm front bar with 900lb-in springs and wish for more)
Balance the rear to suit.
Camber loss is an issue, but also the roll axis inclination. You lower the front and the FRC can go subterranian while the rear lives somewhere closer to the diff.
As far as cheap camber, you can cut and weld the shock tower to gain plenty of camber. (you want at least 2.5*)
Dave, The Datstang was you? Very cool. I was running the #41 Civic hatch (tan with woodgrain vinyl) and the boat. After seeing the impact to the left side door, I'm glad for your drivers' sake that the car was RHD. Congrats on the award!!
My experience with Fox body stuff is mostly from back in the day when I had an FFR 427 Cobra. It had standard Mustang suspension when I bought it, but I converted to 3 link and it made a huge difference in handling (I did HPDE with it). So find a Lemony way to do a 3 link and I think it'll help a ton.
And yeah...if you can find a way to get hooked up going up the hill coming out of turn 3, it makes a huge difference.
In reply to Klayfish:
We should have had a GRM check-in! That was a nasty whack we took, but that was due to our driver spinning the car... twice. Officials wanted him out of the car, which is why I had to carve the pumpkin of the Humungous.
I'll look a lemony 3-link solution. One of the primary issues is the car is stored 2 hours away, so I don't have it in my shop to go fab-crazy on it.
Books are inbound.
Thanks!
Think I could maintain the two lower control arms in the back, weld a bracket on the front of the diff case for a third link made using some pipe and 2 heim joints and then figure out a clamp-on panhard bar again made using tubing and two heims?
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